GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

andrewclaus

I've stopped a couple of leaks over the years, the typical easy ones--timing chain tensioner, front pulley seal. I just took a long drive to visit three friends in three different cities who all have brand new concrete driveways, and I had no qualms about parking on them--not a single drip.

andrewclaus

I just did that replacement a couple of weeks ago, failed motor bearing. Got the whole fan and shroud at the local auto parts store for $80. Maybe I'll need to keep an eye on it.

andrewclaus

I just added 3000 miles to the odometer, now at 228K, on a three week road trip through the Pacific Northwest. I had a couple of maintenance problems the day before I left--a sticky throttle plate and failed radiator fan bearing--that took a half day and $80 to fix. The Vibe ran great at 80 mph free...

andrewclaus

From a parts blowup I found, it looks like it runs through the firewall and through the engine room, maybe above a fender skirt.

andrewclaus

The paint on my '07 has been pretty much destroyed by Colorado sun and winter road sanding. But its appearance doesn't bother me--it runs great and that's all that matters to me. I personally wouldn't paint an older car. I did it once to an old Bronco and was never happy with the result, either.

andrewclaus

I was getting my '07 Vibe (230K miles) ready for a 3,000 mile road trip this morning--oil change and tire rotation. Got that done, tried a test drive, but got a check engine light and went into limp mode. Scanner gave P2103, throttle circuit. I took a look at the throttle plate and electrical connec...

andrewclaus

14.4 Volts is pretty common for alternator output when charging.

The relay burned either from dirty contacts or an overload in the blower motor circuit.

andrewclaus

I had the same starter issue last year, replaced the starter easily, got the better quality one for $200.

andrewclaus

Have you checked the relay itself? Try a bench test--should be open contacts out of the car, apply 12V to the coil terminals and contacts should close.

andrewclaus

If the wire insulation is black with a white stripe (I think I can see the edge of a white stripe), it's power for the magnetic clutch for the A/C compressor. It's easy enough to check--does the A/C work?

andrewclaus

Usually "German torque" is all you need--Gutentight. Like if you're changing a flat on the roadside. But when I'm rotating tires at home, I do use my torque wrench. It sounds like you probably don't do your own tire rotation, so why not bring the new nuts to your tire shop and have them in...

andrewclaus

Concentrating on fixing the no crank problem, only when the battery's in the circuit, leads me to think there's something wrong with the battery under cranking load. I suggest bringing it to a parts store and have them do a load test on it. How old is the battery? Then work on the load on the Gauge ...

andrewclaus

The negative cable, just 'cause it's easier. I sometimes violate the safety rule for operations I know how to do, are not near the SRS system or fuel, and are just a matter of unplugging something small and plugging something else back in. It saves the programming in the radio and various other memo...

andrewclaus

Engine vacuum is highest in idle, lower when throttle is open, so it's probably not a vacuum leak if it's louder when accelerating.

andrewclaus

The Toyota parts website I use doesn't let me in anymore. But a dealer parts counter can help you out. Mine always checks my numbers anyway. If you have an active leak at the pulley, you might also need to replace the pulley. A failed seal has a wire that will dig a groove. I tried sanding out the g...

andrewclaus

There's a remote possibility you got a bad bulb from the store, that had an early failure. I'd just try another one. I assume you verified the bulb failed--discolored glass or broken filament.

andrewclaus

It's probably not the fuse--it's more likely the radio itself. In the wiring diagram for the 2003 Corolla, which is very similar to the Vibe, the following items are on the DOME fuse: ABS Clock Combination Meter Cruise Control Headlight Illumination Interior Light Light Reminder Buzzer and Key Remin...

andrewclaus

Is a non-CARB cat possible to buy/ship where you live? Those are less expensive.

andrewclaus

joatmon wrote: ↑Thu Mar 27, 2025 3:30 pm your right, I was just trying to guess at a scenario where while driving down the road the starter relay closed to connect the bad solenoid circuit to the 30A fuse

I reread your first post and see I misunderstood. I was wondering why it stalled and that makes sense. But still freakish.

andrewclaus

Not sure how the bad starter got too much juice if the starter relay wasn't closed, which obviously wouldn't be normal. Maybe some bump in the road shocked the bad starter into engaging, and stalled the engine, the the fuse blew when you tried to start it again. Freakish coincidences. Glad you've g...

andrewclaus

The 30A MAIN fuse feeds directly to the starter solenoid via the ST relay. It also feeds the ignition switch, but via the 15A AM2 fuse, so that would blow first if there were a problem with the ignition switch.

Somehow a short developed in the starter solenoid on the starter motor.

andrewclaus

I use this site to get the Toyota part no. You have to get familiar with the Matrix frame codes.

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/us/#

andrewclaus

Those are great photos above. You can see you'll need new nuts and probably washers, not bolts. The nuts thread onto studs permanently attached to the body. You may need to clean threads. I was able to replace the entire exhaust system with the car jacked up on stands. My heat shields (three on the ...

andrewclaus

If it's a heat shield above the exhaust, you shouldn't need a lift. They're held on by nuts with a 10 mm hex head, probably M6 X 1.0 thread.

andrewclaus

The rear engine mount is supported by the front crossmember. If you need to move that, the engine should be supported. That can be done with the car jack and a block of wood on the transmission.

andrewclaus

Looks like a torn CV boot causing the "splatter" in last few photos. The oil pan is hard to tell from below.

andrewclaus

Did you have the adapter to test the cap with the pressure tester? Did you try running the engine with the pressure gauge attached? That could show head gasket problems. If there was crud on the cap, it's probably bad. A leak from there might be vapor, not visible in the short term. That's all I can...

andrewclaus

The passenger side leak, if at the rear of the engine, is likely (hopefully) the timing chain tensioner and that's an easy repair. There are some threads on that. I'm not sure about the other area--photos could help. It may be a valve cover gasket. I have no experience with that on this engine. A cl...

andrewclaus

The dimensions you're changing are probably okay. But a larger rear cylinder will take more fluid to actuate, will take more time to fill, and won't travel as far. But it will provide slightly more force across the lower range of travel. There are always trade-offs.

andrewclaus

Doesn't your Vibe have the map lights on the rear view mirror? My dome light switch is wonky too, but I just leave it off. It's probably dirty/corroded switch contacts. You can try to squirt a drop of WD-40 in there, but only a drop or two--you don't want a drippy mess. I'd hesitate to try to remove...

andrewclaus

When you say "second stage of overdrive," do you mean when the torque converter locks in? I wonder if you switched overdrive off, would you still get the sound when the torque converter locks in while in Drive? If it does, I'd suspect some sort of problem with the torque converter lock, th...

andrewclaus

You might want to stop shooting the parts cannon and do some tests. Get a vacuum gauge, read up on its use. Plug or pinch off the vacuum hose to the booster and look for a change. Also pull the fuse for the brake lights to eliminate an electrical problem. And consider the car is 20 years old. If it ...

andrewclaus

It sounds like the car was driven for a while with a very loose belt, which could explain why you didn't have cranking power, and maybe it stalled due to lack of ignition power. That belt also drives the water pump, so it's possible the engine ran too hot for too long, and there's some mechanical da...

andrewclaus

You might be able to tell if it's valve noise by the frequency. If it's half engine RPM, it's a valve. DId you check valve clearances when you reassembled the cam? Did you move any of the lifters?

andrewclaus

The moving parts for the HVAC are lower, below the radio. There are several movable doors to direct the different modes. Maybe one is loose, and affected by outside air under pressure at higher speed. Have you tried all modes, in addition to recirc? All fan speeds? Also verify all the HVAC modes wor...

andrewclaus

I can only help with the radio upgrade. Crutchfield kits make it easy. Get the best unit you can afford. Their cheap stuff is really cheap.

I assume you've done a basic tune-up on the engine--new plugs, air filter, PCV valve, injector cleaner, MAF sensor cleaner, cleaned throttle body,

andrewclaus

You'll probably have better luck using the Toyota part number to search. I use this site http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/us/. Use your VIN or model info. My 2007 part number is 23807-22030 and there are lots of options, new and used.

andrewclaus

Do a good tuneup and check the motor mounts. There should be other threads on that topic.

andrewclaus

No fasteners there per the body parts diagram: https://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/us/20 ... (removed)#55781D

andrewclaus

Yes, you're right, a flush would be better. I went the easier route and didn't have any problems with my car. As I recall I did an extra step to drain the engine block, but didn't have a good way to dispose of flushed coolant at the time.

andrewclaus

No need to flush, just do a drain and fill. I did that for my '07 when I first got it with 150K miles, with apparently original Dexcool in it. I replaced it with Toyota and it was one of the easier cars I've done it on--bleeding the system went well. Get one of the no-spill funnels to make it really...

andrewclaus

I assume you've tried the obvious--make sure it's in Park, and the steering wheel isn't locked.

Try a squirt of penetrating oil (not WD-40) into the cylinder.

Try a local locksmith.

andrewclaus

Hah. I dropped a 12mm socket into the front subframe a few months ago, and it has vanished. Since then I've looked and probed into every possible hole, even when I replaced the rear engine mount, and it's gone. At least it's quiet.

andrewclaus

Enjoy that car. I got my 2007 in the same color, different trim package, eight years ago and in the same condition. It was a lifetime Colorado car, ungaraged, and has the same roof and hood paint damage. Mine now has 230K miles, and so far I've had some front suspension, exhaust, and engine oil leak...

andrewclaus

I'll try attaching the service manual procedure for replacing the tank on an '03 Corolla, which is fairly close to the Vibe. I'd be really careful around the old plastic gas fittings. Some are probably brittle. Any O rings reused will probably leak. With that in mind, I'd give it a try with a salvag...

andrewclaus

Yeah, good luck. I got lucky with my leaks, one at the tensionser, one at the front pulley, both easy to get to.

andrewclaus

A back-up idea is to just screw it in with self-tapping sheet metal screws. Add a dab of black paint or caulk on the head if you want. I use my Vibe mainly as a work vehicle and usually have a selection of screws and a cordless drill right in the car. So it's a no-brainer for me and I have nearly a ...

andrewclaus

I'll attest to the goodness of the '07 Base model. I've had mine for eight years and 80K miles (now at 230K) and it's been utterly reliable. Maintenance has been minor, expected stuff, easy to get parts, never got stranded. But as mentioned above, it'll be twenty years old soon and nothing lasts for...

andrewclaus

I'd clean or replace the cable clamp. There's resistance hiding in there somewhere, even though it's tight.

andrewclaus

First, clean everything. Then start checking below the flange of the tensioner. Feel for a drip every chance you get after driving. Chances are that's it, and that's easy to fix.

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