Serpentine belt change. Additional preventative maintenance?

[GaryG92]

This Saturday I'm planning on changing my serpentine belt, I've got close to 134k miles, and the belt is showing some good signs of wear and slightly squeaky at start up.

I'm planning on buying a Dayco belt with a 3 year warranty for about $24, instead of the Duralast with 1 year warranty for about $16-17. Is it a good idea to go with the better belt?

I don't really have any questions about installing the new serpentine belt. Seems pretty straight forward, and I have a few routing diagrams saved on my phone just to make sure I get it right.

My main question is about the belt that seems better, if I should get it or stick with the cheaper one, and if there's any additional preventative maintenance I should do. Should I change the tensioner pulley even if it seems to be fine? (I haven't checked into its current quality) But I saw the pulley isn't very expensive, maybe another $16. I was curious after seeing a water pump for about $45, and then I watched a video on changing that out. Pretty simple looking, remove belt, alternator, 6 bolts in the water pump and that's about it. My current water pump seems to be fine, no over heating problems and I haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but I'm not sure how long they typically last.

Additional info: 05 vibe base, auto tranny (I think this is all in my sig )

[gtv237]

Cheaper belts seem to dry out and squeak quicker. I would definitely do the tensioner and water pump as well. These things just wear out.

[lannvouivre]

Replace the thermostat and the timing chain tensioner, then look everything over that you can, like the suspension bushings and CV join boots, etc. Only the thermostat and tensioner can really just go out without warning. Oh, and the starter, but usually it fails over the course of a couple of days.

I don't really recommend just throwing parts at it since most of the parts you can wait for the replacement part to arrive and replace it without getting into trouble; usually the parts will wear out and give you ample warning.

[GaryG92]

Replace the thermostat and the timing chain tensioner, then look everything over that you can, like the suspension bushings and CV join boots, etc. Only the thermostat and tensioner can really just go out without warning. Oh, and the starter, but usually it fails over the course of a couple of days.

I don't really recommend just throwing parts at it since most of the parts you can wait for the replacement part to arrive and replace it without getting into trouble; usually the parts will wear out and give you ample warning.

I've kept a good eye on my cv joints due to my previous problems with them. I've seen how to remove the timing chain tensioner, but I'm a little scared to play around with such a delicate thing as the timing chain. I saw you need to "rotate the crankshaft" so the tensioner will spring back out, but I don't know how to do that.

[GaryG92]

And with both of your talking about the tensioner, are you talking about the whole belt tensioner assembly, belt tensioner pulley, or the timing chain tensioner?

[GaryG92]

So I'm guessing with the timing chain tensioner, once I get it in and I need to release the latch, all I do is to the crank shaft pulley? Is there any chance of messing up the timing chain or anything else pretty bad like that?

I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I just enjoy working on my cars, fixing stuff up, and saving money. I want this car to last me a longgggg time which is why I'm doing so much for it.

[ColonelPanic]

Cheaper belts seem to dry out and squeak quicker. I would definitely do the tensioner and water pump as well. These things just wear out.

I certainly agree on that belt tensioner... I had my mechanic replace the original serpentine belt at 89k (Goodyear Gatorback on there now.) I didn't have him bother with the belt tensioner.

Now at 110k, the belt tensioner has that "marbles spinning around in a cup" sound sort of thing going on. Kicking myself right now for not getting the tensioner replaced knowing this part's track record.

[cptnsolo77]

Definitely go with the Goodyear belt. Much quieter...when i changed my belt tensioner I swapped to the goodyear belt as well.

[GaryG92]

Definitely go with the Goodyear belt. Much quieter...when i changed my belt tensioner I swapped to the goodyear belt as well.

I bought a dayco belt. Only thing the parts store had that was a duralast with a one year warranty. The dayco is a 3 year warranty

[lannvouivre]

So I'm guessing with the timing chain tensioner, once I get it in and I need to release the latch, all I do is to the crank shaft pulley? Is there any chance of messing up the timing chain or anything else pretty bad like that?

I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I just enjoy working on my cars, fixing stuff up, and saving money. I want this car to last me a longgggg time which is why I'm doing so much for it.

You can turn it by (with the accessory drive belt on) turning the alternator pulley anti-clockwise. DO NOT go clockwise, or it will jump teeth.

[circuitsmith]

What I did was put the car in 5th gear (sorry folks with automatics) and push the car back a little.

[GaryG92]

So I'm guessing with the timing chain tensioner, once I get it in and I need to release the latch, all I do is to the crank shaft pulley? Is there any chance of messing up the timing chain or anything else pretty bad like that?

I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I just enjoy working on my cars, fixing stuff up, and saving money. I want this car to last me a longgggg time which is why I'm doing so much for it.

You can turn it by (with the accessory drive belt on) turning the alternator pulley anti-clockwise. DO NOT go clockwise, or it will jump teeth.

The alternator pulley runs clockwise, right?

[lannvouivre]

The alternator pulley runs clockwise, right?

Yes. You have to go backwards, though, or the tensioner will release too late. It should click out almost immediately. Make sure you pump the tensioner up with motor oil before you install it. You just dip it in some oil and press in the ratcheting plunger a few times. There should be a guide somewhere, but the point is, you want to make sure you turn the crankshaft backwards because if it goes forward, the chain could get too much slack before the tensioner gets released.

EDIT: http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/14/201j8c04/x040001.pdf
Page 8 of the PDF. I do it from the alternator because the crank is a pain to reach.

[GaryG92]

The alternator pulley runs clockwise, right?

Yes. You have to go backwards, though, or the tensioner will release too late. It should click out almost immediately. Make sure you pump the tensioner up with motor oil before you install it. You just dip it in some oil and press in the ratcheting plunger a few times. There should be a guide somewhere, but the point is, you want to make sure you turn the crankshaft backwards because if it goes forward, the chain could get too much slack before the tensioner gets released.

EDIT: http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/14/201j8c04/x040001.pdf
Page 8 of the PDF. I do it from the alternator because the crank is a pain to reach.

Thanks for the info. How much oil normally comes out when I remove the tensioner? Should I do this while I'm doing an oil change?

[lannvouivre]

Thanks for the info. How much oil normally comes out when I remove the tensioner? Should I do this while I'm doing an oil change?

When I did mine, no oil came out. I recommend silicone gasket around the O-ring so it doesn't leak later. All you need to remove is the tensioner itself. You loosen both nuts on it, get it to come loose (it will try to spring out, hence leaving the nuts on), and then remove it. I had to feel for it because I'm too short to see it.

[GaryG92]

Thanks for the info. How much oil normally comes out when I remove the tensioner? Should I do this while I'm doing an oil change?

When I did mine, no oil came out. I recommend silicone gasket around the O-ring so it doesn't leak later. All you need to remove is the tensioner itself. You loosen both nuts on it, get it to come loose (it will try to spring out, hence leaving the nuts on), and then remove it. I had to feel for it because I'm too short to see it.

I've seen it before, and felt around that area. I think I might take my hood off when I do this job.

Is there any specific silicone gasket you'd recommend?

[lannvouivre]

Is there any specific silicone gasket you'd recommend?

I used the ultra copper that I had lying around from the oil pan.

Keep in mind that you can totally lie on top of the engine if you have to. I always have to do that because I'm really, really small.

[GaryG92]

Is there any specific silicone gasket you'd recommend?

I used the ultra copper that I had lying around from the oil pan.

Keep in mind that you can totally lie on top of the engine if you have to. I always have to do that because I'm really, really small.

"copper spray-a-gasket, high temp sealant" by permatex? I bought a can of that a bit ago for whenever I drop my tranny pan.

I'm 6'4, 220 lbs. I don't think laying on the engine would help me much lol. I'd rather take my hood off. I did whenever I was having problems with my belt tensioner.