Vibration

[MotoAce51]

I haven't been on here in a while but need some direction. On our 04 Vibe, we have a vibration issue. When in drive sitting at a light the car vibrates more than normal. Throw the car in neutral or give it a little gas and it's smooth as can be. This seems to be only when at low RPMs in D.any ideas?

[arrowracer76]

So your Vibe is... Vibrating? Ha ha ha.

What RPM does it idle at? Does it only do this under certain conditions, like running cold?

[Salsa Guy]

Motor mounts, Harmonic Balancer (crank pulley), Torque Convertor going bad. Had an old 626 that had the same issue. Did the motor mounts no help...sold it.

[MotoAce51]

I was wondering if it was motor mounts. It is only at idle in drive. Throw it in neutral RPMs lift slightly, no vibration. Keep it in drive, touch the gas, raise the RPMs slightly, no vibration. It's just an odd scenario. I'll check the idle RPM tomorrow. (Along with the cladding the wife ripped off this morning).

[Salsa Guy]

One way to check mounts is to put it in gear, with the brake on and give the engine gas slightly. The see how much the motor moves. See it shift more than an inch you have a motor mount issue.

[crashbandit]

Hi all, new guy here. I just purchased a 2007 base Vibe with 71000. I have the same vibration issue that a lot of ppl seem to have on here. This car was in a front end collision and was repaired, ( I DID know this when I bought it). I have the same issue with the vibration at idle. It does seem to get a little better when I shift into neutral. My question is, how much damage can I do to the car if I drive it with this problem for a while? Is this something I should be spending money on right away? I would prefer to save up and get some 15" rims and tires to improve my ride quality. The vibration is just annoying right now, but if I am damaging the engine or tranny by driving it like this, then I will go ahead and get an estimate for repairing the engine mounts. I did try shifting from N to Drive and N to Reverse with the parking brake on and I didn't notice much movement of the engine. I really like the car so far but I am saving to buy a house right now so I am kinda being a cheapskate! Also, the car does seem to vibrate worse when it is warmed up. I am guessing this is because the computer is revving the engine higher until it gets up to operating temp., thus the vibration isn't happening when the engine is cold. The crash that the car was in was enough to dent in the AC radiator in front of the cars radiator, all damage to the body was repaired. I guess the force of the impact could have compromised the engine mounts though? The car was hit from behind and slid into another car in front.

[lannvouivre]

You can visually inspect the motor mounts for splitting or damage. I have been told the rough idle is because they're inline-4 engines. It's probably not anything damaging to the car. Mine's been like that for years with the rough idle. When the RPMs speed up, the roughness goes away. The engine probably just has a better balance at different RPMs. I can also smooth mine out by turning on the A/C.

[crashbandit]

I was wondering if anyone has actually had any success fixing this problem. It is really annoying and I was wondering what it would cost to have the motor mounts replaced. I feel like I am driving on one of those old vibrating football games!

[Chiadog]

Hi all, new guy here. I just purchased a 2007 base Vibe with 71000. I have the same vibration issue that a lot of ppl seem to have on here.... My question is, how much damage can I do to the car if I drive it with this problem for a while? Is this something I should be spending money on right away? I would prefer to save up and get some 15" rims and tires to improve my ride quality. The vibration is just annoying right now, but if I am damaging the engine or tranny by driving it like this, then I will go ahead and get an estimate for repairing the engine mounts.....

Just my 2 cents, Doesn't sound like motor mounts to me. Dozens of Vibes here with 2-3X that mileage on original motor mounts with no vibration. The frontal crash damage sounds like it was VERY minimal! Consider running the engine cold with the serpentine belt removed for a minute or so to rule out the belt, bent pulleys, damaged tentioner.
I would not worry about additional damage from running it. It sounds more like a nuisance than a critical situation. Most critical problems are noticed under load.
Good luck.

[vibrologist]

I am thinking very much like Chiadog.
First things first. It may be more of a rough idle that involves vibration. Make sure the spark plugs are in tip top shape, the throttle body is clean, the MAF sensor is clean, and stuff like that. Use Techron fuel additive for a tank to clean deposits off the intake valves.
This should catch pretty much anything that could affect the idle. The computer will dial down the idle speed after such little things are fixed. If that does not improve things, then it is time to look for signs of other causes.

That said: inline four cylinder engines will never idle as smooth than 6 or 8 cylinder engines. Automatic transmission makes a difference too. If you are in D then the idle will rise slightly as compared to N or P. Compare your car to other 4 cylinder engines with automatic

[crashbandit]

Great, that gives me a place to start anyway. Thanks guys. Wondering, Will the Techron fuel additive clean up the throttle body and MAF sensor as well or do I need to do those myself? The vibration does not go away if I shift into N or Park. I did try what one member suggested, shifting into drive and pushing on the gas a little with the brake on to try and see if the engine torques back and forth. I didn't see any movement but it's hard to see while sitting in the drivers seat.

[vibrologist]

The Techron works only on the injectors, valves and combustion chamber.

Use CRC MAF sensor cleaner for the MAF. It evaporates completely without leaving any residue. Watch video so you know what to expect.

Use CRC Throttle Body Cleaner for the throttle body. This formulation does not attack the coating on the inside of the TB. Again watch a video on Youtube.

[gtv237]

Mine would occasionally vibrate a bit after I did my clutch. I figured it might be the mounts so I went ahead and changed them. At first it seemed fine but then after the engine warmed up and it started to idle around 600rpm, the engine started bucking. It would go away completely if I raised the rpm over 700. I found that preloading the mounts a bit makes it a little smoother but I still get an annoying vibration any time it drops to 600rpm.

[circuitsmith]

With an automatic in gear the engine vibration can travel to the transmission and the drive axles.
Crankshaft output torque is in pulses, driving the stalled torque converter.
So the problem isn't necessarily right at the engine.
If it's not vibrating in neutral that steers me away from the motor mounts.

[lannvouivre]

The Techron works only on the injectors, valves and combustion chamber.

I only get Chevron, Texaco, Phillips, and Shell gasoline since they add more detergent to the gas. My valves on the intake side are so clean I can hardly believe it when I look at all the oil in the intake manifold from the PCV and breather.

[crashbandit]

I tried the Techron additive and it didn't help at all. My car vibrates if it is in neutral or drive. The only way to get rid of the vibration is to raise the RPMS. Sometimes it's so bad it shakes the steering wheel. I am going to try the MAF and intake cleaner next. Anyone have some good links as to how to properly do this on my engine?

[vibrologist]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rt8Ekk6kot8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjibtLY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[vibrologist]

I tried the Techron additive and it didn't help at all. My car vibrates if it is in neutral or drive. The only way to get rid of the vibration is to raise the RPMS. Sometimes it's so bad it shakes the steering wheel. I am going to try the MAF and intake cleaner next. Anyone have some good links as to how to properly do this on my engine?

That means the valves were clean to begin with. There is another reason for the vibration. Hopefully cleaning the MAF sensor helps.
My checklist would go on like this:
1. vacuum leaks
2. fuel pressure
3. plugs and coils
4. fuel injectors

[lannvouivre]

I love how all of the things you've listed are so easy to do with these cars <3 BEST ENGINES EVER. Unless you have a 2ZR or 2AZ, then the intake is in the back of the engine like some kind of heathen design.

[crashbandit]

I cleaned the MAF sensor, it looked pretty clean already but I went ahead and cleaned it. The car seems to idle at a bit lower RPM now but the vibration is still there. I was wondering if it would be alright to use the MAF cleaner that I bought to clean the throttle body? Just looking to save a few $.

[crashbandit]

I am thinking of trying to switch to a synthetic tranny fluid to see if it helps my vibration problem. The vibration has gotten worse now. At times it makes the metal shell of the car vibrate like someone is banging on a metal drum. Between the punishing ride and the vibration problem, this car is really no fun to drive. At least it never failed to start in the below zero weather we have been having here.

[sideshowalan]

I've been following these boards for ~ 6 years and It seems like whenever it gets cold outside, these rough idle/bad vibration threads start popping up.
The problem is probably something to do with the air intake.

Most likely problem is the intake manifold gasket if it's never been done before, the original ones tend to dry up and allow vacuum leaks. Get the redesigned orange/red Toyota gasket.

Other things to try are to clean the MAF sensor, throttle body and check the air filter.

I'm 90% sure one of these will fix a winter low idle. Best part is they can all be done in an evening with ~$25 in parts/cleaning supplies.

[sideshowalan]

I cleaned the MAF sensor, it looked pretty clean already but I went ahead and cleaned it. The car seems to idle at a bit lower RPM now but the vibration is still there. I was wondering if it would be alright to use the MAF cleaner that I bought to clean the throttle body? Just looking to save a few $.

Get throttle body cleaner. There is a special coating on throttle bodys that can be damaged by anything else. The MAF cleaner's main feature is that it cleans well on first contact and then evaporates quickly.

[TheDRV]

I have been attempting to diagnose this exact issue for the past year, and have yet to receive a truly smooth idle.
2006 Vibe, 1zz, 4AT, 116,xxx mi.
Idle is much smoother than when I began, except for when the transmission is placed in reverse (if anyone has suggestions regarding that issue, I'm all ears (or eyes!)

I believe vibrologist's 4 suggestions are where to start, and you might find a solution.

Here's what I have done in chronological order:
Replaced Front and Rear Motor Mounts (vibration increased)
Cleaned throttle body, with TB cleaner
Cleaned MAF, with MAF cleaner (vibration still present, slightly reduced at times)
Seafoam in all three recommended areas
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced PCV Valve (vibration still present)
Replaced TB gasket
Replaced Intake Manifold gasket (vibration still present)
Replaced Serpentine Belt, valves and valve gasket checked out ok (vibration slightly reduced)
Replaced Left, Right and Rear (again) Motor Mounts (vibration in cabin reduced, but present in engine bay)
Oil Change every 3k mi, with High Mileage Oil since 100k (reduces vibration mildly with fresh oil)
Chevron or Shell only.
Berryman B-12, added to a half full fuel tank this past week (vibration further reduced, but still slightly present)

Although none of the items completely resolved the vibration issue, the maintenance was required and the car runs fantastic!

If your rear motor mount is worn, it will transmit a greater amount of vibration through the cabin due to its design. The mount is shaped a bit like an "A" and straddles the drive shaft. It's a PITA to replace, do not buy the DEA branded part: a bolt is welded where it should not be, and this prevents installation.

I believe the remaining vibration is due to either the fuel system, or a vacuum leak.
I hope this info proves to be beneficial to you.

Best of luck, and Cheers!

[vibrologist]

Hi TheDRV:
The things you did I had done on a Mazda Protege with about 150 000 miles on it, except I did not replace any engine /tranny mounts. It very much helped improve idle and drivability. I also went from 87 octane to 89 octane with ethanol. This really did the trick in terms of drivabilty.

Sometimes treating for a symptom works as a diagnosis:

Berryman B-12, added to a half full fuel tank this past week (vibration further reduced, but still slightly present)

This means there was some stuff in the fuel system, most likely on the injectors. Even though you were using top tier fuels something was affecting fuel system operation. The B-12 Chem tool may also have a cleaning effect on the catalytic converter and the HO2 sensors.

On this Protege and our other cars (not yet the Vibe) I used 1/2 gal of Lacquer Thinner (NOT PAINT THINNER!!) on 1/2 a tank of gas and drove for 100 miles or so. It did not clear the P0420 code but it made the engine run just a bit smoother. That is similar to your B-12 Chem tool experience.

I would not replace any mounts until I know for sure they are shot: with the car in park and secured look under the hood, rev the engine and see if it moves more than an inch.

[crashbandit]

I have given up trying to solve this problem. The vibration along with the crappy ride has me looking for a replacement for this car. I think I will be losing my (removed) on this car with the way it runs and rides.

[lannvouivre]

I have given up trying to solve this problem. The vibration along with the crappy ride has me looking for a replacement for this car. I think I will be losing my (removed) on this car with the way it runs and rides.

The new 2AR-FE inline-4 engine has a balance that meshes with the crankshaft and reduces vibration. It idles smooth as butter.

[vibrologist]

I have given up trying to solve this problem. The vibration along with the crappy ride has me looking for a replacement for this car. I think I will be losing my (removed) on this car with the way it runs and rides.

Make sure you get a really long test ride with the car you consider buying. Drive the same roads you are normally driving for a direct comparison. Add a little gas at your own expense. Good luck.