DIY: Dryer Hose Intake writeup

[Geo]

I love fiddling with stuff, and I figured this would be fun to try. So I did ^_^What I did was I removed the stock intake assembly from the airbox on, and replaced it with 3" dryer hose that I extended to the foglamp area for a CAI like effect. Here's a writeup, I'll answer any questions afterwords. I still might go ahead and buy a real intake and sell it should I get the SC, but this was fun, nonetheless :DStep1: Tools.I used 3" aluminum dryer hose, umm, some sort of socket wrench to take off all the nuts (they are ALL the same size, so you only need one ... I just forget what sized I used! I think it was 10mm, but it's the same size as the battery one all around) some tape, a dremel tool for cutting the airbox itself, some tape, and some cold drinks of your choice. First thing I did was remove the battery because you really need room to work with. I also removed the 2 bolts holding on the fusebox, so that I could move it just a little bit later on. REMEMBER - IMPORTANT: Remove NEGATIVE terminal first, THEN remove positive, and DON'T TOUCH METAL TO THE BATTERY TERMINALS! 2: Remove the airbox filter and remove these three nuts that are on the bottom of the airbox. Also, take the time to disconnect the little cable connector thing on the right side of the airbox (sorry, no pics) so that you can remove the bottom of the airbox easily.3: Remove the stock intake hose. All you have to do is pop off the one plastic bolt that's on the frame, and remove the little metal bolt that is normally under the battery. Once you do that, snake the stock tube out of the engine bay and this is what it'll look like. Notice how narrow it actually gets! (Don't pay attention to the red tape, it's from a previous mod I did)4. Remove the bottom half of the airbox! There were the three bolts holding it to the frame that you removed before, on the right side there was that little cable holder, and what you have to remove last is the little metal bolt that is on the back end of the airbox, that serves as another cable holder. This is a little tight to get to, but it shouldn't be too much of a problem. (Sorry, no closeups of that area)Here's what it looks like when you do this:5. There's a few ways you can attach the airbox to the dryer hose, I did it the hard way I took a dremel tool and cut a larger opening for the dryer hose, keeping the bottom part of stock coupling part, and cutting into the upper part of that into the airbox. (Yea, this description sucks, but I forgot to take a picture of the hole I made >_&lt I took the little foam peice of the stock intake hose, and placed it around part of the dryher hose to help with the seal. I used a staple gun to staple the hose to the airbox itself, and then wrapped the outside with electrical tape to provide a better seal. I folded the hose on the inside of the airbox as well, to help keep it in place. It doesn't look pretty, but it'll work for now! This is what took the most time, and patience, so if you can think of a better way to do it, please by all means: DO IT!6. Putting the airbox back into place sucks. A lot of elbow grease, moving of wires and a little hard force is what it takes to get it back into place. I first snaked the hose into where I was going to put it, and after that I moved the airbox back into its original posisition. There's no easy way to go about this, feel free to remove any wires that you can to help ya out too - just don't forget to reconnect them! This is how the airbox looks when everything is back into place, and the hose is routed the same way a CAI would be to near the foglight area.Shot of the hose going to the foglight area:And an underneath shot of where the hose comes up and my "secure" way of holding it in place:Put the battery back into place (CONNECTING POSITIVE TERMINAL FIRST, THEN NEGATIVE) and reattach the battery tie down. Wipe off your hands, start up the car and let it idle for a while. I took a short ride afterwords to the gas station for a fillup after the 10 or so minute idle time, and I wish I had a dyno. Seat-of-the-pants feeling tells me that it picked up just a LITTLE in the lower speeds, however, the car felt a LOT quicker and smoother going from 40-100mph. You could even extend this to the bumper area and turn it into a pseudo ram-air intake, but I just didn't want to deal with that at the moment. No CEL came on, and the total cost of this mod was oh ... $6 or so. As I said, I love fiddling with things, and this seemed like a good thing to do. Sure, I wrecked the stock airbox, but who needs that anyways? I still might go with a CAI/Short Ram or even a drop in K&N filter so that I can keep the stock airbox setup till the SC comes in and wait for the other companies to test their designs with the airbox to make sure it works.Hopefully this helps/inspires someone else. For $6 and a couple hours, ya can't go wrong!Questions/comments welcome, just don't tell me I am insane, as I already know this.

[dmitri]

looks good

[scherry2]

Hey McGyver thats using the old brain cells

[dmitri]

LOL mcguyver

[rasermon]

WTG Geo!A cheap fix for some cold air.

[good vibes]

uhm...... nice tape job....

[Geo]

quote:uhm...... nice tape job....One does what they need to do to get the job done. Besides, I didn't take Tapeology 101 in college

[ragingfish]

I dunno dude...something seems seriously wrong with this...lol..

[good vibes]

yeah like what happens when it rains and water gets splashed up in there and road dirt and stuff. You may want to look into some sort of a retainer and fasten it to your fender well or wherever it ends with some machine screas or a nut and bolt.

[Geo]

Well I peroidically check it, so far after a few hundred miles of City driving, highway driving, torrential rain driving, dusty driving and driving at 100+mph, everthing seems fine and dandy.I believe it does a rattle just a little bit at times with hard acceleration, but I am checking into that.I've seen this mod done before on VWs, and actually, it gave them more HP than a CAI setup. Very interesting indeed.