2005 Vibe a/c out, clutch not engaging , fuses/relay ok

[click182]

Hello, I was hoping someone can help me out here. I am about to replace my a/c compressor, after only 35,000 miles. The reason for the low mileage is I barely drove it, just for VA appointments really. Anyway, I have read for days of possible problems and solutions to remedy the problem. None worked. I believe it is the clutch coil, I have tried everything else, well almost. I will be getting a multimeter to check all wiring as I don't really want to undertake this job, but I think it will just confirm my suspisions. One question I do want to know from anyone who currently owns a vibe....if you go right now and try to turn the clutch by hand, will it turn. Or does it not budge at all? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I have many other questions, but I'll wait and see if anyone is still alive out there with a vibe.

[trb]

I just checked my son's 06, and the compressor turns VERY easily with the motor off. Have you tried to run a hot wire to the clutch coil to manually engage the clutch? With the AC on, you should check the coil plug wires for 12v if it is not engaging, that should tell you if you are getting power to the coil.

[bluneon]

a reason your clutch isn't engaging is most likely because of the pressure switch. if there is low pressure in the system (a full charge is 1.01 - 1.14 lbs of r-134) then the switch cuts off the system ie; prevents the compressor from turning on.check how much charge is in the system. i had a matrix come in the other day and recovered only .70 lbs of charge in the system; the pressure switch was preventing the compressor from coming on. i fully charged the system and everything was fine.i would make sure you don't have a leak first. then as stated previously, hot wire the coil to see if the clutch energizes and the clutch engages.the clutch will spin freely, this is normal. if your clutch isn't spinning then that means the internal bearings inside your compressor are gone.

[click182]

Thank you both for responding.I checked the pressure switch (jumped it with paper clip) to bypass, nothing happens. I did hot wire the coil, and the clutch does not engage. What I notice is that the clutch will not rotate, but I am able to move it when I flick it with my finger. I don't know how to describe this, best way is the gap between the plates remains loose, whether energized or not. I am not entirely sure that it is energized when I hot wire it, I've moved the wire around inside the pigtail so I should have made some kind of contact. No "clacking" noise. I don't see a ground wire so I guess that is connected to outside of the coil wall, unreachable. I don't believe there is a leak, but I can't get any dye into the sytem without the compressor running. Last year it was blowing cold, not super cold, but it never really did compared to other vehicles I have been in. It does help me to know that it is suppose to turn freely. I've read online from some forums that it depends on the make of the vehicle if the clutch will turn. Makes me wonder though, if the bearings inside the compressor are shot, wouldn't I be hearing something, a rattling or grinding or something? Or atleast heard these things as it was going out? Sounds like I need the whole compressor, as well as accumulator and such. Currently getting a bill of materials together, parts and rental equipment.

[trb]

How exactly did you try jumping it? You mentioned wiring in the pigtail, was the end of the connector still attached to the coil? In order to apply 12v to the coil, you need to have the jumper wire hooked to the battery, and the other side touching the male end on the coil, not the female end on the wiring harness. And as far as a leak, you can tell if it is charged by using a set of gauges. If it is charged, it should show some static pressure on both the high & low gauges, like 40-80 psi or something. I always rent a set of gauges from Autozone, if you have one close by.

[click182]

I disconnected the connection leading to the coil (pulled the connector that is gray off). The remaining wire to the coil was intact, black tube with contact inside. I didn't like doing the next part as I have a pacemaker and this was a bit scary. I ran a wire from the battery to the wire coming out of the coil to energize it, listening for a clacking noise. I didn't leave both ends hard wired, one end loose at a time. Like one end touching the coil wire, and then taking the other end and touching the battery with it, then vice versa. I bought the multimeter today, and have no reading from the coil. I touched the positive to the wire coming from the coil, the other to the compressor body. Nothing. Have the meter set to read ohms at 200 setting. I think I see what you're saying...don't try to jump from the connectors...pull out the connection on the coil itself? I guess I tried to shortcut it, as the space is so tight in there, but I think I have to do it to rule it out. going to see if I can fish out the connection after this post.Pertaining to a leak...When the air first stopped blowing cold, I did what some people do, bought a bottle of r-134a/with gauge. Ofcourse it did not go in, but low pressure side was showing 100psi when not squeezing trigger. I've read in a few forums that is normal and doesn't really mean anything. I know you're right though, I need to check both sides, and there is an autozone nearby. They have the gauges, but don't rent or want anything to do with refrigerant recovery or vacuum pumps. I'm going to get the gauges, just to see what's going on as far as pressure, and learn something new.