after a long time, i'm looking to properly mount my door speakers. yeah yeah, i know, should have done it myself, but this car is my first and didn't want to mess up the wiring. after years of having slight issues with the install(speakers jiggling loose and shorting out on the metal in the door, interference due to close location of the door metal and the magnet) i want to fix this. here is a reference pic of how they were mounted in front: as you can see there is a lot of gap up top and they just don't quite fit right. i had the passenger side removed for a while now cause it fell out it just didn't fit right and was shorting out. speaker is still good. i attempted to use the stock bracket but the screw holes in the speaker are just a bit too far out from center that i can't drill. i am assuming the back speakers are the same way.pictures of your installs? tips, ideas on how to properly mount them? thanks.
Im looking to reinstall the factor adapter myself. Like a knucklehead I threw them out. Anyone want to sell thier factor front speaker adapters?
* 2003 Vibe Auto Satellite Silver w / Moons & Tunes
* Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597
* Polk DB651-Speakers
* Soundproofcow Roadblock R sound deadening in all doors
* Drop In K & N Filter
* NGK Iridium IX Plugs
* 27 MPG City/Highway with AC on
would it be possible to see if they are same sized as the vibes? i really want to fix my speakers. i'm tired of the rattle. i was thinking i could take the spacer into a store and see which speakers fit them, but i don't really want to replace them.
If you take off the speaker/adapters that are screwed onto the door right now, can you reposition them so that they cover the speaker hole?If so then just redrill the 3 holes and move your current adapter up a little bit.From the photos it just looks whoever mounted them put the new speakers a little too low on the door.
Quote, originally posted by tribalman »would it be possible to see if they are same sized as the vibes? i really want to fix my speakers. i'm tired of the rattle. i was thinking i could take the spacer into a store and see which speakers fit them, but i don't really want to replace them.It would be pretty difficult at this point as the spacers are in my Subaru ATM.. Let me see if I can come up with a spec print, I remember one laying around the forums back a few years ago, I'll do some digging...
Quote, originally posted by tribalman » The speaker could be re-positioned, and clocked (turned slightly) so you wouldn't overlap holes.. Some window/door foam gasket tape could be used to better seal the speaker to the door..
Quote, originally posted by tribalman » pictures of your installs? tips, ideas on how to properly mount them? thanks.Do you have any way to cut plastic? Jigsaw is ideal for what I'm about to suggest.. Make your own spacers... SUPER EASY... Take the stock white spacer, clean up the inside edges with some wire cutters... Hit up Walmart or a dollar store, grab a plastic cutting board (1/2")Trace factory spacer onto cutting board and get busy with Jigsaw and drill...Profit... (send me the factory spacer, I'll do it for you and write a DIY for it, better yet)
Quote, originally posted by sideshowalan »If you take off the speaker/adapters that are screwed onto the door right now, can you reposition them so that they cover the speaker hole?If so then just redrill the 3 holes and move your current adapter up a little bit.From the photos it just looks whoever mounted them put the new speakers a little too low on the door.that is actually the best rotation i could get. i would really prefer to not cut/drill the doors. Quote »Take the stock white spacer, clean up the inside edges with some wire cutters...Hit up Walmart or a dollar store, grab a plastic cutting board (1/2")Trace factory spacer onto cutting board and get busy with Jigsaw and drill...Profit... yeah.. it was just a job to see if it was possible, as i say in OP the spacer doesn't match up with the speaker holes: but i'll check out your idea SW. any recommendations on thickness?
Thickness, well, how deep is the speaker from the mounting flange to the back of the magnet (measure off of a table)?How much depth do you have from the metal of the door to the window in full down position? The difference is the LEAST amount of space you want, and you really want to add 1/8" to clear the window.. Cutting boards are standard thickness.. 1/4-1/2"Work with that outline..
I did pretty much exactly what Sublime is suggesting with the cutting board. The only difference being that the stock speaker was still intact, so I couldn't trace the inside of the hole.
hopefully tueday or wednesday i'll be able to work on this. looks easy enough... although i just need to see if the bandsaw still works, if not: DREMEL! thanks for the advice everyone. just need to find the correct size screws to use. pretty sure the ones that are in now aren't correct. they don't seem to snug up well and part of the reason why i removed the passenger speaker.
IT can be done with a dremel, but it's not easy in any way.. A hack saw may do if you have it.. if the band saw isn't working.. you'll have to cut through the spacer to cut the speaker hole with the band saw, but that shouldn't be a problem at all..
Quote, originally posted by papacueball »I did pretty much exactly what Sublime is suggesting with the cutting board. The only difference being that the stock speaker was still intact, so I couldn't trace the inside of the hole. I'm slowly getting one of these made, issue i'm at now is what size screw to use to mount the bracket to the door. the ones that i'm currently using aren't the best, they seem too short and they don't secure like i want them too. I.E. they don't snug up at all. papacueball, if you remember what length and thread size did you use? thanks again everyone!
IIRC, they were 1/4" bolts with a beveled head (I countersunk them into the cutting board), and either 3/4 or 1" long. Lock washers or a lock nut would be a good idea, too.
I tried to use the factory spacers, but no go. Like the OP of this thread, the holes just didn't line up. I was however able to use the ones that came with the speakers, albeit having to drill 3 new holes. But it does completely cover the speaker hole. The cutting board idea is ingenious, but fortunately I still have enough clearance, so it's not needed. Internet Forums never cease to amaze me with the help they contain.