Sound deadening assistance

[Blanco_Diablo]

Quick set-up:Trying to sound deaden my vibe for audio purposes. This is my first time, ever, trying to do this. Thanks to Sublimewind, I have purchased Damplifier Pro for the job. I think I am doing alright so far, but I have a few question for those who have done this before...Is this enough coverage or will I need to purchase more material? With the door pack I ordered I pretty much have two large sheets per door surface (which I have cut into 4" strips). Not going for competition level sound but want it to be enough to do the trick once I have my Hertz HSK 165 comps installed.Here is where I am on the inside of the door:Just beginning the other surface. Do I need to close off all of those large access ports to the inner door? Anything else to be aware of? What is that white box in the lower right opening? I'm guessing I should not cover that?Is it ok to just cover everything like this genviber did in his tutorial? Since I still need to have speakers installed I didn't want to make it a nightmare for the installer.

[Sublimewind]

You are doing great... !! Are you using a roller, did it come with one... it's important.. The closer you can get to sealing the holes in the inner door frame (like the 3rd pic) the better the midbass will be... In the 3rd pic, that door is considered "sealed" even though it's not... It blocks the waves that are coming from the back of the speaker, from mingling with the waves coming off of the front of the speaker...Inside of a door, being so wide and thin... Those waveforms will cancle each other out as they meet... Don't worry about the installer... if they need in the holes, you can simply not deaden there, till they are done... Another thing to consider would be some aluminum duct tape (not normal duct tape) and tape all of the wires to the door... Doin great, lookin good..

[Blanco_Diablo]

Yes, I am using a wooden roller that I bought with the damplifier. My forearms are aching from all of the rolling. Pics are a bit deceiving. In the second photo all of the horizontal creases are from the roller as the sound deadener came in flat sheets. So... I guess I will just tackle the inside of the doors for now and do the rest once my speakers are in? Am I ok with the current coverage I have on the inside or should I cover everything and buy more damplifier later?

[Sublimewind]

You are doing fine... you can go as far as you want with it... you know my recommendations... it's up to you now.. I would hold off on finishing till the speakers are in, it's easier for everyone that way..

[dragon64]

On large flat pieces of sheetmetal such as door skins, floors, roof, hoods and trunk lids it is not necessary to cover every square inch with the damping material. 100% coveage does not yield any greater sound or vibration damping than covering 4" wide strips about 3-4" apart. Discovered this in a FAA/DOT document several years ago. Also did some R&D into this as a cost reduction applying damping material on sheetmetal enclosures on industrial machines with same results at a previous job. One of the Street Rod magazines also did a test as well a couple years ago in a car audio application. The prople that want and train people to apply this material an every square inch possible is mainly the manufactures of these materials. I do agree that covering all the hole in the inner door structure not only does this replace the factory moisture barrier but creates a enclosed air space for the speakers but you could a less expensive material like roofing membrane to cover the opening and still have enough density to still be effective.

[Blanco_Diablo]

Thanks for the advice guys, guess my next step is getting th espeakers installed so I can finish the deadening job

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by dragon64 »On large flat pieces of sheetmetal such as door skins, floors, roof, hoods and trunk lids it is not necessary to cover every square inch with the damping material. 100% coveage does not yield any greater sound or vibration damping than covering 4" wide strips about 3-4" apart. Discovered this in a FAA/DOT document several years ago. Also did some R&D into this as a cost reduction applying damping material on sheetmetal enclosures on industrial machines with same results at a previous job. One of the Street Rod magazines also did a test as well a couple years ago in a car audio application. The prople that want and train people to apply this material an every square inch possible is mainly the manufactures of these materials. I do agree that covering all the hole in the inner door structure not only does this replace the factory moisture barrier but creates a enclosed air space for the speakers but you could a less expensive material like roofing membrane to cover the opening and still have enough density to still be effective. You are correct... as little as 25% coverage will work... and if you DO decide to cover the holes, they need either multiple layers or plugs made so that the deadener over the hole, doesn't become a passive radiator.. I used 2 full layers of D-pro and a 3'd large cut-off from elsewhere ..

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by Blanco_Diablo »Yes, I am using a wooden roller that I bought with the damplifier. My forearms are aching from all of the rolling. Pics are a bit deceiving. In the second photo all of the horizontal creases are from the roller as the sound deadener came in flat sheets. So... I guess I will just tackle the inside of the doors for now and do the rest once my speakers are in? Am I ok with the current coverage I have on the inside or should I cover everything and buy more damplifier later?LoL, at least your arms are small and you have some room inside of the door.. mine where cut and bruised all over from working my doors.. lol..

[tlw00dy]

I'm about to have some speakers installed. If you only need to cover 25% to see some benefit, I would definitely consider having this done at the same time. What product would you recommend if I would just do the 25% or so?

[cp_stunna_2011]

I agree with the stats i dynamated my two back doors inside and out with dynamat extreme and just the front door insides with what i had left and there was no HUGE difference but i noticed more tang and less bass,,,,

[Blanco_Diablo]

I used damplifier pro (black) seems like a good quality substrate...read a ton of positive reviews on it. If it would stop raining on the weekends I could finish the other door I can't wait to get everything hooked up!

[tlw00dy]

Why do you need to put the stuff on both the inside of the door cavity and the inside door door surface? If you only need 25% coverage, couldn't you just put it on the inside door surface?

[tlw00dy]

Are you going to do all 4 doors? Does the damplifier pro door kit do one door or two?

[cp_stunna_2011]

idk, i did both the inside and outside of my back doors and just the inside of the front door, i couldnt notice a large difference....

[Blanco_Diablo]

I'm just doing the front two for now...the door kit pretty much covers those. I may need a few more sheets to finish it up if I use the same coverage in the second door that I did on the first one. probably went a 'lil overboard, butl I'm ok with that If you don't have one, make sure you get the wooden roller when you order.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by tlw00dy »Why do you need to put the stuff on both the inside of the door cavity and the inside door door surface? If you only need 25% coverage, couldn't you just put it on the inside door surface?It's not that simple, the door it like an empty coffee can.. I'm sure you've messed with one and know how "ringy" it is.. Well, if you where to fill the can half (or 1/4) the way with water, you effectively dampen the can... well if you do only one surface with the deadener, you don't give anything for the sound to work against.. You need the most deadener in the area around and behind the speaker, then 25% coverage over the larger flat areas will do.. it's not ideal, but it will work,,

[tlw00dy]

Thanks, all. I guess I want as much benefit as I can get. So, I'll do all four doors inside and out. Looks like the RAAMmat BXT II at $100 for 37.5 sq ft is the value leader. Can anyone confirm that the 37.5 sq ft would do all four doors and then some? FatMat Rattle Trap Door Kit comes in at $64.98 (free shipping)Damplifier Pro is $60 for the door pack, 13 sq ft.Looks like they are all pretty close in price. Can anyone help me choose one based on performance or some other personal preference?

[audiovibe]

^^ Depending on coverage 37.5 would do all 4 doors. I have close to a roll of BXT 60 in my doors doing 3 layers on the outer skin and 2 layers on the inner skin. I also did 2 additional layers behing the midbass.Aron

[cp_stunna_2011]

i tried not to over do the dynamat, first becasue im (removed) about it and have to have it perfect and would spend way to much money, and second, its seems like it would add a lot of weight, my sound deadening material isnt light at all, and i would like to get as much power out of her as i can ( sorry a little of subject, just been wondering for a while about that)

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by cp_stunna_2011 »i tried not to over do the dynamat, first becasue im (removed) about it and have to have it perfect and would spend way to much money, and second, its seems like it would add a lot of weight, my sound deadening material isnt light at all, and i would like to get as much power out of her as i can ( sorry a little of subject, just been wondering for a while about that)If you where really worried about it, you wouldn't have installed the system... do it, be happy, stop worrying about beating that dude with the v6 rustang and enjoy the car for what it is, a slow, utilitarian vehicle that looks bad *** and is really comfortable..

[cp_stunna_2011]

well i got rid of the subs for weight, and yeah i know, BUT for my 17th birthday my parents said they would let me take it to a track for the day, so i was just wondering lol. I still have all the RF wires, amp and door speakers though.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by cp_stunna_2011 »well i got rid of the subs for weight, and yeah i know, BUT for my 17th birthday my parents said they would let me take it to a track for the day, so i was just wondering lol. I still have all the RF wires, amp and door speakers though.Serious? It's become THAT big of deal... lol... Track, like what kind of track, drag or road?

[cp_stunna_2011]

well not like that serious to compete with the stang, they offered it to me lol , and it will be a oval track, and a drag track.

[zdkaiser]

i also wanted to sound deaden my doors. how much weight would you all say is added by doing a good coverage of all four doors? i wouldn't want to add more than 20lbs.

[Sublimewind]

All 4 doors should put you in the 20lb area... I'd say..

[keithvibe]

I did my floor, doors, back hatch, roof and i added aprox 75lbs totally worth it... I get comments on how my doors make a thud in stead of the twang of an uncoated door.