HELP! tweets and rear door speakers don't have power

[robwilc]

i just noticed today that my tweeters and rear door speakers are completely dead. The factory sub and front door speakers work fine. Is my HU blown? i took it out and made sure the connections were tight and still doesn't work. I also took apart the front doors to test for power and don't get anyting. I don't think all 4 speakers would blow at once so it must be something else, but what?

[Wolfman213]

Since you have the M&T, check the amp under the passenger seat. It's possible someone may have kicked it or kicked something into it and has caused something to disconnect. I haven't actually examined the amp beofre so I'm not sure how everything is connected on it (i.e. if it's a plug since it's factory, or if it's wired like a normal amp).

[audiovibe]

Thts a strange one, normaly speakers dont blow at the same time.If the front mids are getting signal then the tweets should also, they are on the same line. Check the fader make sure its not faded to the front aswell. With the tweets it is posiable that say the passanger one blew then the drivers side blew but that should have still been noticeable.What I would do is get a speaker remove the tweets one by one and thes the speaker in line to narrow it down. If the new speaker works and the tweet didnt then the tweet is the problem. but if the new speaker dosent work then we would have to come up with a different attack plan. But I would start with eliminating the speakers that are not working.Hope I helped and good luckAron

[robwilc]

i checked all the connections and they are all good, like i said earlier i checked the rear door speakers to see if they are getting power and they weren't, then to be safe i hooked up a speaker i had laying in the garage and it didn't make a sound, could a HU be blown or is that nearly impossible?

[audiovibe]

It may be the amp is the culprit here. Take the factory speaker that try it on a known working source. If the speaker works it is most likely the amp. In the moon and tunes all signal power is routed through the amp. If the amp is the culprit then you would have 3 logical choices.1. Buy a 4ch amp and drive the factory speakers with it. (I would not recommend if you have a heavy volume control hand)2. Buy a new head unit and bypass the factory amp all together.3. find a used factory amp.depending on what you want to do if the amp is the cause I would suggest option 2 and 3 before option 1.Nothing is impossible.

[robwilc]

alright i will try testing the amp. Correct me if i am wrong audiovibe but if i go with option 2, wouldn't my speakers be underpowered if they were only getting power from the head unit?

[audiovibe]

in real life settings the amp most likely puts out a solid 10-12 watts RMS. The 300 watts that the factory rated it at was way over rated. Going to an aftermarket radio you will probably yield the same volume but have more advanced tuning functions such as user adjustable EQ and such. you will also get the full 20-20 response at all volume where as GM puts a limit on the lower notes as the volume goes north.Aron

[ParknVibe]

Check your stereo's equalization controls. My 2009 model has the stereo balance control for left to right speaker adjustment. I found out that it has a Fade control that adjusts the balance of the front to back speakers. Maybe you have the rear faded out and the front speakers full.BTW: I plan on purchasing better speakers that have tweeters. I hate a bassy sound.

[vibe_rator]

Hi there. I want to replace the factory amp with a Profile 1040AP amp. How do I wire it up since it appears that the factory amp accepts proprietary connectors?I will be drivine 4 Infinity 6022si speakers, so the profile amp could blow them, but I am wondering if I could also prevent this by turning the gain down?Can you help me out here?Thanks!P.s., I'm a noobe at genvibe