It looked so good! Key word being LOOKED. It freakin' rained. 6 hours of 3 stages and I got to drive around in the vibe for a whole day....The stuff works really well, though. I was very impressed. Even removed minor scratches. The paint was unbelievably smooth and slick. I recommend trying it. It's a lot of work, but has amazing results!
I think I'll have to try that. I love spending a couple hours on a Saturday morning making my Vibe look good.On another note, does your Ocean Breeze air freshener smell like salt water and dead fish?
I can't believe you actually made that part public......damn!!!!I use the 3 step from Mother's....Works like a charm (although I haven't used it on the Vibe yet).
2003 Pontiac VibeSalsaPower PackageSports PackageK&N Air Filter
AtWork, you'll find Meguire's at Canadian Tire and it was on sale a week ago . I've used nothing else on my Vibe and liked the results, but I should disclose that I only use the wash soap and the paint cleaner (step 1). I tried the Polish (step 2) a couple of weeks ago and didn't see a lick of difference over the cleaner. I have the wax, but I've been unable to devote 6 hours like savedbyzero did so I can't comment on that. I've just made it a priority to keep my car as clean as possible using good products and gentle cloths and such.Can anyone comment on whether I'm exposing my Vibe to evil things if I do the wash and paint cleaner and don't polish and/or wax?
The polish seems to be a finer costitency. Kinda like stepping up to a finer grade sandpaper. I tried the cleaner, then wax on the top. I didn't think it had the same results as all three steps, but that's my opinion.Oh, and I finally removed crossbars from roof rack. So much better!
savedbyzero---glad to see that you tried and liked the 3 step system. Too bad it rained and made it dirty again. When that happens, now that you've got the cleaning and protection of the 3 step system, you should try a spray detailer. Next time you wash your car, dry it and apply a spray detailer. It will make your wax last longer and quickly and easily bring back that shine you worked so hard for.As for soaps, please never use dish or laundry detergents, they are not good for automotive finishes as I have discussed at great length in this forum already before. I recently found what was left in my bottle of Mother's Clear Reflections car wash bottle. I forgot how much I loved that stuff and how nice it makes the car look.Keely---To get the full effects and protection of a 3 step system, you have to use all 3 steps. Using step 1 alone will deep clean the car's finish, but leaves it with no protection so you will have to do it all over again the next time you wash your car. Each step has a specific function and all 3 are designed to work together to give you a great looking and protective finish.To quickly rehash:Step 1: deep clean surface, remove effects of oxidation, pollution, and old wax---cleans everything off the surface to prepare it for next steps.Step 2: usually a polish and glaze to smooth out the surface, fill in minor scratches/imperfections, and enhance the gloss.Step 3: most any good quality wax will do for step 3, so if you like another brand, feel free to use it for the third step--it doen't have to be the same brand as steps 1 and 2. This step also enhances gloss, deepens the shine, and most importanly, gives a layer of protection to the surface.So, buy using step one alone, you are exposing the surface to oxidation, UV damage, and pollution. It gives no protection because that is not what it was formulated to do. You can skip step 2 if you want and go ahead and wax the car after step 1 and you're covered. You just won't get the deep shine that you would have if you used step 2. And why would you bother to take the time for that if you aren't going to go all the way with it? If you are investing that much time to go ahead with step 1, you might as well do all 3. That 6-8 hours once or twice per year is well worth it to me. I used to do the 3 step system once a year in the spring once the weather broke, then wash the car about once per week, and wax the car again every 1 1/2 to 2 months after that. That kept a show quality shine on the car all year round when it was cleaned.
Former owner of a 2003 Vibe GT---Great car that gave me 8 years and 83,000 miles of trouble-free service.Current owner of a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD.
quote:Keely---To get the full effects and protection of a 3 step system, you have to use all 3 steps. Using step 1 alone will deep clean the car's finish, but leaves it with no protection so you will have to do it all over again the next time you wash your car...So, buy using step one alone, ... It gives no protection because that is not what it was formulated to do ... That 6-8 hours once or twice per year is well worth it to me....Thanks Stang. See this is what I didn't understand. I figured that if I used all 3 steps, I'd be doing that every time I washed the car. So what you're saying is that every few-6 months I could do the whole 3-step thing. Then, when I'm just doing my bi-weekly wash, that's all I need to do: no need to do the cleaner, polish and wax as well?
Keely.............The wax (Natural Carnuba) does not last 6 months....30-60 days max, check out the link below, and read up, you will see what I mean.http://www.properautocare.com/whichwaxisbest.html
Thanks for the link, Cubanpete. You know, the more I learn I realize that exterior car care is to men as what a hair care regimen is to women. You can go all out or go minimalist, but in order to look good, there really are things one must do at certain intervals (every week, every six weeks, twice a year) - washing/deep conditioning treatments; waxing/root touch-ups at the salon... There are a lot of expensive products, debates about proper methods.... I swear, it's eerie. The downside to being a proud car owner AND a woman is that I have to deal with BOTH regimens.
My pleasure........Look at my last post..under detailing with claybars, I can justify for this method first hand as i used ity, I will try to get a pic and post later today!....You will see the results! Just awesome, very satisfied.
Just got back from the Canadian Tire and I didn't see any Dura Gloss - Yank, is that the brand name or a particular product, and what's it for? Cubanpete, I did see a Mother's claybar ($25CDN) but I figured I'd just focus on getting the Meguire's 3 step down pat first (as opposed to the one-step I was doing before ).
Mother's Claybar kitMother's Sealer/Glaze (Phase 2)Mother's Pure Carnuba Wax Paste (Phase 3) Well, after much consideration, I picked up a Mothers Clay bar kit also step 2, and Step 3 (Paste)....Man I have to tell you the car came out absolutely awesome, I did not even use the entire claybar, I used half of it and stored the other half in an air tight ziplock....Man I have to tell you after these results....I see no reason why its necessary to buy Hi end waxes costing a couple of hundred dollars, the key to a good job is preparation, I did this in my garage, I am not a pro-detailer by any means, However I am certain that if I would bring my vehicle to get it done at a shop to get the results I got, they would charge me 200 bux easily!.......This is how I did it:1) Wash car very very good, with Dish soap and remove all old dealer waxes/polishes, NEVER use dish soap as a weekly washer only for preparation of the 3 step system for the first time around. dry vehicle very very well..2)With rhe fresh Clay Bar squeeze it well and stretch it to a pad size form, Always start with the areas that contain the least ammount of Oxidization/Particles.....I started with my hood, the did the roof, the top side of the doors till the molding, the front quarter panels. Then he hatch, then the front part that gets all the grime and salt in the winter...the lower part of the doors...These areas will have higher particle rate then other sections of the vehicle and you dont want trapped debries to scratch up your car.. I always would do a 3 x 3 foot area constantly flipping and redoing my clay bar so as it was getting recycled all the time, do not worry for the detailer over spray,...Always make sure ther is lube where you are working..once the area is done, spary a little detailer then buff the completed area, it looks and becomes like glass....Key point is: Work slowly and productively..Take as much time as you need and inspect the area well after its done and you buff it! 2) Then apply the Glaze/ Sealer step 2 starting from the roof going down, Leave the sealer glaze on till tou finish so it will bond good and get rid of 85% of all the swirls and scratches.......When complete buff well....and get prepared to get blown away.........you will feel like the car dosent need anything else as it looks rich and deep, better then when you bought it! ..... Don't worry about the powdery residue from the sealer.......just dust it off with a new terry cloth..3) The Pure Carnuba paste part...I found was the hardest, labour wise as the liquid is easier to apply but the paste IMHO is much better and last longer.....but harder to work with, you need to eat a good breakfast.......Again I did it as I did step 2.....I did it in my Garage which is cool and no sunlight....and left the carnuba wax on the areas till it hazed up and bonded well....then I buffed..........my car feel like I just spayed it with a Glass coating of somekind........I recommend these products to anyone.... On a note with the dishwashing soap........When I will have to do step 2-3 again later on, You should not use it and use a real car wash soap.....Meguiars liquid Crystal or Mothers....as they will not strip of the existing protection....they will clean just enough to prepare the vehicle for the job.
With no exageration I was very surprised myself,....I recommend the mothers products to anyone they are fantastic! I wonder if we can layer the carnuba wax, the step 3 part, monthly, if it has any benefits or it traps oxidization between layers, making it a disadvantage!...The car is a daily driver, and does not have 6 coates of clear on it from the factory. So exterior protection is a good idea, especially with the winters we get here!
quote:Just got back from the Canadian Tire and I didn't see any Dura Gloss - Yank, is that the brand name or a particular product, and what's it for? Cubanpete, I did see a Mother's claybar ($25CDN) but I figured I'd just focus on getting the Meguire's 3 step down pat first (as opposed to the one-step I was doing before ).https://www.duragloss.com/new/index2.html
quote:I believe Mothers step2 the sealer/glaze gets rid of oxidization........but not 100% certain!No, that is what step 1 is for. Step 2 fills in minor surface imperfections (that's what a glaze does) and the sealer part is to help prevent oxidation from forming. Right on the step 2 bottle it says that you can quit after applying step 2 and you will have some protection, but not nearly as much as you would if you waxed with a carnuba wax.
Former owner of a 2003 Vibe GT---Great car that gave me 8 years and 83,000 miles of trouble-free service.Current owner of a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD.
After reading the good reviews, I thought I'd give the 3 step method a try. It's something I never tried before, so I wasn't sure where to start. I got a good deal at Fleet Farm - all 3 steps for $15 US. Took me about 4 hours, but the Vibe looks really nice. After painting the engine cover the other day and then this, I had to take a pic