Hi, I purchased a full head gasket kit and was wondering any tips, tricks and special tools you could give/suggest?I already got torque wrench and the basic mechanic tools.IE: While doing it, clean-up those things, check that ...I've attached the step by step to access the cylinder head in case there's something wrong to it.Thank you
the only other thing i can think of is to make sure you have the head machined true so that all your hard work don't go down the tubes in less than a month.
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I'd inspect the timing chain to make sure things are OK in that end of things while it's open.
Would you agree to debris acceptance? 2003 Vibe GTMods installed GM Top and Mid-Gate Spoilers, Cosmo CAI, TWM Short Shifter with Desert Eagle weighted shift knob, TWM Bronzoil Shifter Cable Bushings, Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust, Unichip, Injen Billet Aluminum Engine/Sparkplug covers and oil cap, Optima RedTop Battery, Lineage Ground Wire KitAwaiting install: Energy Suspension Motor Mounts, DC Sports Header
Quote, originally posted by keithvibe »the only other thing i can think of is to make sure you have the head machined true so that all your hard work don't go down the tubes in less than a month.And that would have to be made in a machine shop right?Prior to do so, is there some indicators that would show me the heads needs to be machined?
Quote, originally posted by magickarle »And that would have to be made in a machine shop right?Prior to do so, is there some indicators that would show me the heads needs to be machined?yes, and it's always a good idea to have the heads milled flat.. espically if you have overheated the car because of the HG going...
There's nothing wrong with the head. It's just the gasket is leaking oil outside firewall side (nothing major). The leak is outside only (no black smoke, weird odor). It might only be a couple of bolt that were not torque correctly but I prefer to do the job right and replace the hole gasket.Once opened, I'll know for sure if the head needs to be trued (but I doubt it).I called the Pontiac parts, the bolt (15$ each!!) doens't need to be changed (they do not strech) and the head didn't blow so the screws should be fine.
the most important things to remember when doing head gaskets are:1. clean surfaces to mirror finish! 2. do not touch mating surfaces of the head and block as the oils from your hands will not allow the head gasket to seal properly.3. copper spray head gasket should be used and light coats of it (should be nice and tacky)4. be sure to follow proper torque pattern, sequence, and torque angle (not sure if the head requires that but check to make sure).
Well, I bough the gasket kit but it's way too cold to do the work in the garage so I'll have to wait in spring.I'll take some pics and the steps when I'll start the job.cheers
Thanks for the quick response. I don't think my girlfriend's car can wait for spring. I may just have to give it a go and hope for the best. I'll report back if I do.-JT
It's losing water and it overheated on her last week. Just looking at the dipstick, it's pretty obvious that water is getting into the oil. It's a 2003 and I doubt she's ever had the antifreeze changed or even checked for that matter. Looking at the back of the engine (as much as I can get any sort of view of it), it looks like there's oil on the back side of the engine and there's the occasional drop of oil on the ground. I hope it's not more serious than a blown head gasket. Looking at the manual, it looks pretty involved to get the head off and I'm worried that special tools might be required. The last time I took a head off an engine was in the 80's (unless you count my Wankel, which doesn't really have a head). I think I'm going to start taking it apart on Monday just to get an idea of what I'm up against. Any help would be greatly appreciated!-JT