Unichip set for 10-12 psi???

[jsimon63]

I don't know if many people have looked into it, but if you were interested in combining the supercharger with the unichip, there are only to boost levels preprogrammed into the unichip...10 psi and 12 psi....but the s/c runs at 7.5psi , so whats the deal? Anyone know if the 10 psi map would still be fine for the original 7.5 boost out of the GM s/c?Thanks in advance!

[BlueCrush]

Lancer will be able to help you on that one.

[Raven]

You could change pulleys and get 10psi and more HP too.

[jsimon63]

Would you say 10psi daily is OK on stock internals?

[satur9]

doesnt adding a cia make you run 9psi. mabey thats what its mapped for

[Raven]

Quote, originally posted by jsimon63 »Would you say 10psi daily is OK on stock internals?It should be fine. People run turbos with way more boost safely.

[northvibe]

I think lancer was at 10 or 11psi and he has stock engine...well had, and yes you will need a smaller pulley or it should be recommended for going that high over stock.

[jsimon63]

Had??? What happened?

[Lancer]

If your at 7.5psi, why would you want a a/f and ignition timing map for 10psi? That would be way too much fuel! I got the 10psi with a larger alternator pulley. I have the 10psi map from Unichip. It still runs super rich! Even with a intake, header, and 3" exhaust! Your best bet is a dyno tune. The Unichip map doesn't give you 10 psi. You have to already be making 10psi. (10psi is the max for our s/c's. Anything more and your really over spinning the rotors.) Also, if your going to run 10psi, you should have w/i to get the full effect of the higher boost. Not to mention it helps you from grenading your engine. A lot of people say that 10 psi doesn't add any power, only more hot air (hence the need for w/i). I totally disagree! I don't have any dyno graphs to prove it, but I definitely feel the difference. Do you need to upgrade your engine internals? Depends on how you drive, I guess. I doubt that you'll be at 10psi all the time. Most of the time I'm only at 5psi, scooting around town and to and from work. I used to do a lot of street racing, so now my piston rings are worn out and I'm burning oil. But that opens up a whole new discussion on whether or not you can with these engines. I know it's been done. But so far no one has a clear cut answer.

[northvibe]

Quote, originally posted by jsimon63 »Had??? What happened?He blew a piston ring.. :S And before I got to get a ride in it!

[Lancer]

Got a hold of MWR. They said that the 1zz engines DON'T have any special coating on the cylinder walls. They’re conventional iron sleeves. Now I just gotta figure out which is less expensive. Installing forged pistons. or new (Forged pistons from MWR($570). Newer engine ($900), not including shipping.Hey, anyone know what sort of 'prep' the cylinders need for forged pistons? What are the steps install them? Does it really need to go to a machine shop or can a good mechanic do a light hone and install them?

[jsimon63]

What are your plans for useage? Maybe a little NOS or just some good old fashion red line street racing?! Any way... the forged pistons are a great idea, but you need to consider the rings package. Do they supply chrome moly rings? (probably)(they have to be broken in according to instructions) or cast iron rings, which break in so fast that they are almost broken in while turning the motor over during rebuild. The cylinder prep depends on how many miles are on it and if there is a ridge at the top of the cylinder. If you have that many miles or wear, to have a ridge, then maybe the new motor, or and over bore. You can get a ridge cutter and cut the ridge, not that hard to do, and then a nice cross hatch pattern with a cylinder hone ( the one with balls!) is a great one to use. Motor building is more an intimidation thing than anything. You have to be able to follow instruction for toque specs and assembly order. Clean, remember that word! Cleanliness is next to Long lasting HP!! Assembly lube is very important too! They have very good products out there that stick well to parts. A little research goes a long way! Print stuff out. Take pictures! Ask questions!! If you have the cash to do the build, I would build it! Over build it!

[Lancer]

Nah, deffinatly NOT doing the engine rebuild myself. Just don't have the tools or space or the balls for that. My landlord doesn't even like it when I change my oil. If I could find some people with the expertise to help, then I'd do that.They say the pistons come with "performance rings", not sure what that means. Maybe some nitrous, mostly for the cooling effect. Nothing more than a 25-30shot. We'll see after the cams or in.Still can't decide which way to go. New engine or rebuild the old. Either way the motor has to come out. And this is about the worst time for me finacially.Starting to lean more towards new engine. Then get a real tune and not the crappy Unichip maps. Then slowly rebuild the old engine.