Pontiac Vibe GT '03 rear disc brakes

[SL1CKD1CK]

I am trying to change my rear brake pads on my '03 Vibe GT. This vehicle comes with rear disc brakes. I've done several brake jobs before, but have never done brake work on this particular vehicle. I didn't have a manual and winged it and took off the caliper and disassembled everything. I am now at the point where I need to compress the piston back in, but I am unsure if this is compressed by C-clamp or it's screwed in? (I didn't see any divots to allow the screw in method) - so I gently tried to C-clamp it in - it wouldn't budge! Do I need to relieve the brake fluid pressure inside the caliper (loosen the brake fluid bleeder) or can I just force the brake fluid back up the line with the C-clamp? Or is the piston just simply seized and I'm out buying new calipers? Any recommendations on what to do to get that piston back in so I can put my brake pads on would be greatly appreciatedBtw, do they make a Chilton's or Haynes manual for this vehicle? I haven't found any yet, or am I stuck buying that $120 2 Volume set?

[damronjr]

When I did my front brakes I just used a C-clamp to compress it back far enough to get the caliper off the rotor. I would assume it would be the same here, just try applying more pressure would be my guess, but it didn't take a lot to open mine.Welcome to the site, BTW!

[bh357]

I've done the rear brakes before on my '03 GT. I used a C clamp, and it compressed in without terrible difficulty. Just make sure that you're not forcing the piston in crooked.

[ToolGuy]

Not the screw in type, C clamp... Here is the GM serv manual procedure... Rear Disc Brake Mounting and Hardware InspectionUse a siphon in order to remove half of the brake fluid from the reservoir. Install a large C-clamp over the brake caliper (10). Position the ends of the C-clamp against the rear of the caliper body and against the outer brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp in order to compress the caliper piston into the caliper bore. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper. Attempt to move the caliper up and down. Verify the caliper is not loose. Attempt to move the caliper in and out. Verify the caliper slides smoothly with minimal force. Inspect the caliper bolts for the following conditions: • Corrosion • Damage • Looseness • Seizing If any of the conditions exist, replace the caliper mounting hardware. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Hardware Replacement . Gently pull the caliper slide pins (2,9) outward without disengaging the slide pins from the boots (6,7,3). Gently push the slide pins inward. Inspect for the following: • Caliper bolt damage • Missing components • Cracked or torn slide pin boots • Binding • Seizing • Corrosion If any of the conditions exist, replace the caliper mounting hardware. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Hardware Replacement . Inspect the disc brake pad hardware (1,4,5,6,7,8,9) for the following: • Bent components • Excessive corrosion • Looseness at the disc brake pads • Missing components If any of the conditions exist, replace the disc brake hardware. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Hardware Replacement . Verify the pads slide easily and without binding on the hardware.

[SL1CKD1CK]

Thanks for all the help! I ended up having to force the piston in all the way in with a hammer (I know, not the way to do it, but I tried a C-clamp with a flat piece of metal over the piston for evenly distributed c-clamp force and it didn't budge). I inspected the opposite rear caliper and there was plenty of brake pad life left. Which lead me to believe that I had a bad seized piston that wouldn't relieve back into place upon brake release and caused premature pad wear due to constant force/friction on the rotor still applied while driving even when I wasn't hitting the brakes. My rotor was still good, as I caught it in time, but I didn't feel like rebuilding the caliper, so I am just replacing it. Problem solved. Thank you!