DRL / Auto Lights / Foglights Mod.

[thor9]

I performed the Disable DRL / Auto Headlights mod by cutting Pin # 8 (alternator sense) & grounding the circuit board end to Pin # 2 (ground) inside the DRL control module. This avoids having to cut any of the harness wires, and is easily and discretely resoldered if I need to return it to stock condition.I also went ahead and made the operation of the foglights independent of the headlights, by cutting Pin # 4 (foglight switch) and grounding the harness / connector end to Pin # 2 (ground).The only possible drawback to this mod, is that it is possible to accidently leave your foglights on with the engine & headlights off, and you will not hear an alarm chime if you do. The positive side, is that you can turn the foglights on by themselves, or with the parking lights, low beams, or HIGH BEAMS.One other warning: the Pin #'s I refer to, are molded into the connector on the DRL control module. These are NOT the same numbering that GM refers to in the service manual.Just stick to the Pin numbers actually molded in the connector.

[esjones]

I can't speak about DRL and foglights, but I found that the auto headlights are a breeze to disable. (This was posted by someone else, who deserves huge thanks!)Just pop out the auto headlights sensor from the left end of the top of the instrument panel and unplug it!! I took a piece of scrap wire and tied the connector up so that it still hangs just below the sensor when replaced in the hole. This will make it easy to reconnect if I ever need to or want to. - Earl

[thor9]

I wanted to see if I could make mine a bit more 'stealth' (easily reversible) in case of future warranty repairs, and I also wanted to gain full control of the foglights.I think the two versions of the light mod that were posted here by Hawke & Vibeowner were excellent, and I thank the gentlemen for posting them. They were extremely helpful.If someone wants to make the foglight mod externally, just cut the foglight relay control wire (green with orange stripe) that attaches to Pin # 4 of the wiring harness connector, and run the harness end (not the module end) of the wire to chassis ground. Be careful, there is another green/orange wire used at another pin on the connector, so make sure you have the correct wire before you cut.

[Pawel]

quote:I performed the Disable DRL / Auto Headlights mod by cutting Pin # 8 (alternator sense) & grounding the circuit board end to Pin # 2 (ground) inside the DRL control module. This avoids having to cut any of the harness wires, and is easily and discretely resoldered if I need to return it to stock condition.I also went ahead and made the operation of the foglights independent of the headlights, by cutting Pin # 4 (foglight switch) and grounding the harness / connector end to Pin # 2 (ground).The only possible drawback to this mod, is that it is possible to accidently leave your foglights on with the engine & headlights off, and you will not hear an alarm chime if you do. The positive side, is that you can turn the foglights on by themselves, or with the parking lights, low beams, or HIGH BEAMS.One other warning: the Pin #'s I refer to, are molded into the connector on the DRL control module. These are NOT the same numbering that GM refers to in the service manual.Just stick to the Pin numbers actually molded in the connector.Thor,what you are saying is that you opened the relay and you cut the pin #8 wire and connected it to the pin #2? The coming in section of pin@8 was isulated, right? Any pics?

[esjones]

quote:This I also think is the easiest way, but I will keep mine stock just incase.I could have lived with it in the stock mode. After all, except for the little "lights on" indicator in the tach, you really don't notice it. EXCEPT.. if you have the nav system (like I do) then the LCD screen goes into "night" mode whenever the auto headlights kick on. That is a real distraction, and is the main reason I disabled the "feature."- Earl

[thor9]

Yes, I opened the plastic box containing the DRL control module. The recessed end cap of the plastic box surrounding the connector, is very easily pryed out, it's not glued. The circuit board then slides out of the plastic box.The pins from the wiring harness connector inside the module make a right-angle bend before they are soldered to the circuit board, and I cut the pins at the bend, and separated the cut halves, and ran short insulated jumper wires from the cut ends over to Pin # 2 (ground) and soldered them in place.Then just slide the circuit board back into the plastic box, snap the end cap back in, and you are done.Not as easy as cutting the wires externally, but it can be restored to stock, with little evidence of the modification.Unfortunately I didn't take any pics, but it is not too difficult for anyone who has done any circuit board repair & soldering. Otherwise, I would stick to cutting the yellow and green /orange wires externally.There are links in a previous thread, to pics posted by vibeowner that show the inside of the module.I hope this helps.

[NSimkins]

quote:Yeah, that would be annoying. I wonder how long that screen would last or if it would ever burn out?LCD screens don't burn out unless there is a major malfunction with any of the devices controlling the screen output. Usually the most common problems with LCD screens is the abuse brought upon by the user itself.. being poking the screen, insuficient cleaning, etc. Mostly the screen will start to develop bad pixels (the little dots that make up the picture). LCD screens overall are very reliable.

[millster]

quote:LCD screens don't burn out unless there is a major malfunction with any of the devices controlling the screen output. True, the panel itself will not typically burn out without abuse or major malfunction. However, the cold-cathode backlight will degrade over time. This usually takes many years even under contstant use. As such, it's unlikely that any of the LCDs used in these cars will see any degradation due to age.

[LongHaul]

Thanks for the heads up on the second green/orange wire.