Polk db6750 x4 install pics..

[Psychobroker]

Here's a few snaps of the recent install I finished on Saturday...if you cannot tell, the front grilles are mounted behind the door panels because the screws provided by Polk were not long enough. Couple this with my initial foray into dremel tools nearly a year ago when I installed my Infinity Kappa 62.5's, and the front door panels simply didn't have enough of the stock speaker grilles left to use to mount the new ones. I plan on fixing this with longer screws, so I'll probably post updated pics in a couple weeks when I get the chance. Anyway, here they are...The DB's sound awesome - pure clarity, no harsh highs at all. Now I just need a good 4-ch amp to replace my M&T amp.I my Black & Decker rotary tool Please let me know what you guys think!

[Jahntassa]

Interesting placement of the tweeters. In the rear, I had put my MOMO tweeters on the opposite side of the door handle, more towards the front.Clean install tho! Very impressive!

[ArcsVibe]

Wow! Really nice and clean bro, really looks good Love the way the grills show, was it hard to do that?Sam

[Psychobroker]

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Interesting placement of the tweeters. In the rear, I had put my MOMO tweeters on the opposite side of the door handle, more towards the front.Clean install tho! Very impressive!I was going to do the same thing, but realized that I would have had a tweeter blaring directly into my left ear lol I'm a tall guy with long arms, so as you can see in the pics, I drive with my seat all the way back. It would have either pointed at my ear or the side of the driver seat. And, because of my innate sense of balance (lol), I had to match mounting positions in the front. Oh, and there's also not enough room in front of the door handles for the tweets anyway. I had considered the a-pilars, but realized that would have been a PITA, so they are where they are and I couldn't be happier Thanks for the compliments! Oh, and Sam, depending on your skill with a rotary/dremel tool, it's not that difficult an install. I did forget to mention that I had to gut out the factory speaker mount in the rear doors as the woofer simply wouldn't fit. It's a tight squeeze up front, but that's because I think the stock rear speakers are 5 3/4, vs 6-6 1/2 up front.The sets came with flush and top-mounting cups for the tweets, which really makes the install easier than I thought. Nice, clean, professional look Now, can anyone recommend a nice 4-channel amp? The M/T has got to go ASAP - and I'm hoping my new HU will help in the power area until I can pick one up. A few suggestions would be very much appreciated

[ArcsVibe]

Well...LOL in that case I better get someone to "help" me install it.Really good job bro

[Jahntassa]

Quote, originally posted by Psychobroker »Oh, and Sam, depending on your skill with a rotary/dremel tool, it's not that difficult an install. I did forget to mention that I had to gut out the factory speaker mount in the rear doors as the woofer simply wouldn't fit. It's a tight squeeze up front, but that's because I think the stock rear speakers are 5 3/4, vs 6-6 1/2 up front.Now, can anyone recommend a nice 4-channel amp? The M/T has got to go ASAP - and I'm hoping my new HU will help in the power area until I can pick one up. A few suggestions would be very much appreciated For the rear, you can pretty much just remove the stock thing altogether. A 6.5" speaker will sit right in the metal of the door without interfering with anything. And yes, the stock is a provision for a 5 1/4 speaker.As for amps, i'd reccomend something with a variable crossover. Audiobahn A4004T, JL Audio 500/4, etc.. Most 4 channel amps will come with a high-pass filter, but you want one that's adjustable to make it work well with those speakers.

[Psychobroker]

Thanks again for the advice, Justin. I'm still a bit of a newbie to car audio, but it's clicking, slowly but surely lol..I've never head of these before...what do you think? Nitro BMW-485 1600? this must be it's peak rating @ 2ohm in bridged mode x 2Quote »1600 WATT MOSFET BRIDGEABLE AMPLIFIER SUPER HIGH FIDELITY SOUND WIRED BASS REMOTE WITH L.E.D. BUILT IN FULL CROSSOVER SYSTEM VARIABLE LOW PASS FILTER 30Hz-250Hz VARIABLE HIGH PASS FILTER 50Hz-1KHz VARIABLE BASS BOOST (0-18dB) VARIABLE GAIN CONTROL 2-8 OHM LOAD CAPABILITY 4-CH BRIDGEABLE DESIGN MOSFET REGULATED POWER SUPPLY 3-WAY PROTECTION WITH L.E.D. INDICATOR FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 20Hz-30KHz LESS THAN 0.03% THD HIGH/LOW IMPEDANCE INPUT 45 DEGREE POWER AND SPEAKER CONNECTOR GOLD PLATED RCA, POWER AND SPEAKER TERMINALS DUAL COLOR POWER/PROTECTION STATUS L.E.D. BLUE INTERIOR ILLUMINATION Sony XM-4060GTX - only 60w x 4 @ 4 ohm Phoenix Digital PD-394Orion 8004 refurb?Rockford Fosgate Punch 801X Legacy LA1095 sorry for the laundry list

[Psychobroker]

hmmm....AUDIOBAHN A6004T

[Jahntassa]

I'm a little skeptical of the Nitro because it doesn't state the RMS values. Also, anything that says "1600w" should be a little more than $115. Not saying it's a bad amp..but..i'd be cautious.The Sony is alright, but i'm not sure if Sony has fixed their overheating problems with that series yet. Price isn't bad, and it should have a clean sound to it.Pheonix isn't bad from what i've heard. It's got a healthy amount of RMS power, and looks like it should fit under a seat nicely.Orions are really nice. The "refurb" part would give me pause, especially if you haven't seen one in action. Most likely can't argue with the price, though. I forget what the RMS on the Polks are, but the 100w might be pushin' it..I've said it before..heh.. I'm not a fan of the current Rockford lines...anything newer than say, 1995. I personally think their quality has gone down a bit because of all the competition. That, and i'm pretty sure that would have to be mounted in the trunkspace. Legacy is also supposed to be pretty good. Though, that particular amp might be a bit more than what you need. I'd also be concerned about the physical size.I personally like Audiobahn amps. They're very stylish, and that one should fit under the driver seat. It has an internal cooling fan that keeps it at proper temps, which is a plus. That price is also extremely good. I think CC sells the A4004T for at least $200.

[Psychobroker]

Sweet, so the A6004T for ~$200 shipped is an even better deal then?Oh, the db6570's are rated at 100w RMS / 300w peak..EDIT: Scratch that price...how about $168 shipped?

[Psychobroker]

Ok, now that I've read up some reviews on AudioBahn amps, plus your praise, I'm thinking about swapping out my RF 351s 2ch amp (for my sub) for one of AB's...either a Audiobahn A8000T (mono), A4002T (2ch), or A8002T (2ch). I hate to say it, but I'm sure the A8002T is too powerful for my polk/momo MM10, which is rated at 500w RMS / 1000w peak (4ohm). What do you think Justin?My only concern is that both the A8000T and A4002T are rated at 400w RMS (mono vs. bridged), and my 351s is rated at 350w RMS...would the extra 50w be worth the swap? Is it more complex than just numbers? Sorry about the q's...I'm still a bit of a n00b -ChristianPS If I decided to do the sub amp swap, would my fosgate remote bass knob work with these aubiobahn amps? EDIT: Ok, so I did some more digging...what about their '03 lineup, specifically an A2601T (2ch). Man, why do there need to be so many options?! argh..

[Jahntassa]

It's true that you want to match up the RMS values, but..you're somewhat safer getting an amplifier MORE powerful than the sub can handle, than getting one LESS powerful. A sub that can't get enough power can blow both the sub, or the amp.If you went with the A8002T, I don't think you'd have a problem. Afterall, you're not going to turn the gain all the way up. I'd say you want to try finding a D class monoblock amplifier.. That's just my opinion though. D Class mono amps are more suited for subs because the circuitry is beefed up to handle the power requirements for the subs.The 50w increase isn't much, in numbers, but yeah, you'll notice a difference. I'd say go with the 8002 out of those, and just keep it cranked at half..Just from a quick glance, tho, i'll look more heavily later!

[Psychobroker]

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Just from a quick glance, tho, i'll look more heavily later!Hey Justin, I'd really appreciate that! So 800w x 1 (bridged) @ 4 ohm wouldn't blow my 500 w RMS sub if I don't crank up the gain too much? Ok

[Jahntassa]

It shouldn't. You should be able to easily tell when the Sub is nearing too much, you'll hear it start distorting. Usually I'll turn up the radio all the way, then back a notch or two, and then crank the sub to find the distortion point, and back it down a bit. That way you should be safe at normal listening levels. Just make sure you do something like this with a song that's REALLY going to use the sub.. especially a song that's close to the kind of music you usually listen to.

[drummerdude]

Where did you install your crossovers... this is my main delimma for not installing my components.

[HamiltonAudio]

Quote, originally posted by Psychobroker »Hey Justin, I'd really appreciate that! So 800w x 1 (bridged) @ 4 ohm wouldn't blow my 500 w RMS sub if I don't crank up the gain too much? Ok the gain on an amplifier is designed to match the levels between the head units output and the amplifiers input stage. they are not really designed to be a "level controller".....the gain on an amp should be set ONCE correctly and never touched gain unless you change head units. In your case, you'd be gaining less-than optimal, so thats not really a bad thing. If you did run an 800wrms amp on a sub that handles 500wrms, you may be surprised at how much gain the system will take before the sub stresses, esp if you're running a sealed box.good luck! lets see some pics of the finished install...b

[HamiltonAudio]

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »It's true that you want to match up the RMS values, but..you're somewhat safer getting an amplifier MORE powerful than the sub can handle, than getting one LESS powerful. A sub that can't get enough power can blow both the sub, or the amp.If you went with the A8002T, I don't think you'd have a problem. Afterall, you're not going to turn the gain all the way up. I'd say you want to try finding a D class monoblock amplifier.. That's just my opinion though. D Class mono amps are more suited for subs because the circuitry is beefed up to handle the power requirements for the subs.The 50w increase isn't much, in numbers, but yeah, you'll notice a difference. I'd say go with the 8002 out of those, and just keep it cranked at half..Just from a quick glance, tho, i'll look more heavily later!its clear that our philosophies on installation are different, which is a good thing!! I don't at all believe in matching up RMS values. In fact, the power-handling value provided for a speaker is a reference point for the thermal limits of a speaker. I've seen MANY installs running double rated power all day long. Smaller, front-end speakers are a lot more intolerant of excess power, but it still applies....It depends on the cleanliness of the power, where the xovers are set, etc. My advice in this situation is that headroom applies to both fronts AND subs!! You can't possibly have TOO MUCH power can you? also, I strongly believe in (and have proven over and over) that the "rule of 3" is very evident in car audio. To the average person, the smallest perceivable change in SPL is 3 decibels. In order to gain 3 dB in your current system, you'd have to double efficiency (number of identical subs) or double your power. EG:If you're running 200 wrms on a single 10" sub, and your system puts out 130 dB. In order to get 133 dB, you'd need 400 wrms, or a pair of 10" subs. Then to get 136 dB, you'd need 800 wrms, or four 10" subs...etc.Reason I'm saying this is that 50 wrms, IMHO, will be imperceivable. Likely to make NO difference in the quality or output whatsoever. Many people are highly disappointed when they add an additiona 200 wrms to their 600 wrms system and see very little if any gain!!All I'm saying is that 50 wrms isn't worth crossing the street for a subwoofer system....to go from 350 to 400 will achieve nothing but a dent in your wallet I just keep on disagreeing with you, don't I Jahntassa?? I don't mean to stir you up, but just give a different point of view. laters,b

[Psychobroker]

Quote, originally posted by HamiltonAudio »I just keep on disagreeing with you, don't I Jahntassa?? I don't mean to stir you up, but just give a different point of view. laters,bHey now, the more intelligent opinions, the better...thanks to the both of you for your input!So...i'd be better served to install an 800w rms amp? I hate to sound like a n00b, but what's the true difference between 800w RMS coming from a mono "D" amp and 800w RMS (bridged) from a 2-channel A/B amp? from the reading I've done, the D is much more power efficient, but how else does it affect the actual output?what about 400w RMS from the Audiobahn A8000T for ~$200 shipped vs the 900w bridged RMS of the A8002T for ~$185 shipped. These are RMS ratings into a 4 ohm load...seems like the A8002T is a no-brainer to me, esp since they're both A/B amps. What do you guys think?Thanks again guys!oh, and here's a few pics of my sub install for HamiltonAudio Polk/MOMO MM10 sealed enclosurefosgate 351s, mystic power 1 farad cap (for future system expansion)bass control knob and power switch

[Jahntassa]

I'd say you're right about the no-brainer, going with the more powerful amp is where you'll see the best increase in power.The main difference is how you've put it, D class is designed to handle bass. A/B is designed more to handle full-spectrum applications. A lot of the D class amp is designing the Toroid coils to take the kind of power hits a sub will make. That effeciency is really important as far as subs go.At least, this is how i've come to understand things.

[drummerdude]

Quote, originally posted by drummerdude »Where did you install your crossovers... this is my main delimma for not installing my components.....?

[Jahntassa]

Dunno who had first asked that...but in the front, my MOMO crossovers are between the door and the door panel, screwed into the door to the lower right, so it won't interfere with the foam in the panel.In the rear, it's actually adhered inside the door, so it won't affect the window, and any water from rain wouldn't drip on it.

[Psychobroker]

Quote, originally posted by drummerdude »....?crap, my bad for missing this...I mounted them just inside the door wells w/ double-sided tape I was close to chopping my doors even more by mounting them "through" the inside panels, but decided not to.Quote »In the rear, it's actually adhered inside the door, so it won't affect the window, and any water from rain wouldn't drip on itkinda like that

[drummerdude]

Thanks psych!

[Psychobroker]

No problemo Ddude