Best Way to Drive Stick?

[newtomod]

I just got a 6 speed GT Vibe 2003 and Im new to stick, and Im getting all sorts of ways to drive it, whats the best? I hear if you want to go fast, shift around 6000 RPMS, while for best economy is to shift around 2500-3000 RPMS.Any suggestions on performance, speed and safty?

[NovaResource]

If you have a GT and you want to go fast you shift at 8200 rpm, not 6000. For economy, the shift range you mentioned is good.

[d_m_kolb]

The best way to drive the 2ZZ is drive it like you stole it.

[MYKIDSGT]

quote:The best way to drive the 2ZZ is drive it like you stole it. Best advise I have heard...............

[Stang2Vibe]

LOL! This is why I love this forum so much. Not only do you get some good general info and looks at new aftermarket products, but you also get some great laughs too!newtomod--assuming that your car is new, I suggest reading the small section in the owner's manual about the break-in period. There's not much to it but you should read it and do what is says. I totally agree with Scott's post above about the shift points. I'm not one to drive and shift by the tach, I go by traffic patterns, need for acceleration, and by general feel. I typically drive hard and mix my driving almost equally between highway and city. I have been noticing about 22-23 mpg for the past few fill-ups.I also suggest not laying into the engine real hard until after the 500 mile break in period. It won't hurt to rev it out to pass someone or to show your friends what she'll do every once in a while, just don't try living vicariously through Mario Andretti until after the break in. As I'm sure you've noticed, the big power is made in the 6000-8000+ rpm range when the VVT kicks in and the cam shifts over to the performance setting (feels like a turbo kicking in under heavy throttle and the engine really screams). The 6 speed is geared so that if you take the rpms near the limit (engine is electronically rev limited so you won't over-rev it) then shift quickly to the next gear, you are almost in the powerband again where the "boost" is felt. So revving out and shifting through the gears keeps you in the high power range after every shift so you're really hummin'. From a dead stop, 60mph comes quick if you let it rev out in first and shift to second. Shortly after you hit the cam changeover in second, you're buzzing along at 60mph with plenty more to go. I've noticed that as you get into higher gears the effect of the valve timing change is lessened. I am assuming that this is because wind resistance is much greater and makes it harder to accelerate. I've been up to about 110 or so and the engine wants to keep going (unfortunately I just ran out of room to push it some more). I wander if the top speed is electronically governed, I assume that it is, and at what speed because I haven't hit it yet. In my mustang it was set at 117mph but I was able to get up to about 121mph (according to speedometer) using acceleration momentum while going down a long moderate grade on an open straight stretch of highway.But anyway, thats how to drive for fast acceleration with the 6 speed. I've noticed that for driving around town, I can get decent acceleration without having to go into the high rpms and save on gas. On the highway, letting it wind out helps pass annoying drivers or with on-ramp approaches to the highway a lot. Its nice when you are climbing a long hill on the highway and some jerk in some crappy old minivan is really riding your tail even though you're already going 15 over the speed limit. Just drop 2 gears and punch it for a few seconds, then sit and laugh for 5 minutes while they try to catch up. By far, most people really don't realize how fast these cars are. Yet.I had trouble adjusting to the 6 speed at first for about 2 weeks. I'm not sure if you're trying to say that you've never drove a stick before or if you're trying to get used to the 6 speed. I've driven lots of cars before with 3, 4, and 5 speed manuals and commercial trucks with 5, 6, 13, 15, 18 speeds and believe me, the Vibe's 6 speed is tricky. It is very notchy and the gears are very very close. Confusing 1, 3, and 5 is easy to do (this is the same reason for the annoying interior beeper warning when you are in reverse). To get the feel for the clutch, I found that I was able to drive the car more smoothly at first by starting out in second (as long as you are not starting out on a hill or need to merge quickly into traffic) and skipping third, going straight from second to fourth. This is good for most driving situations and will help teach you the feel for the clutch in this car. Only after about 500-600 miles on the car did I notice that I was able to shift through all the gears smoothly and with ease. I'm sure that this was due to my learning the placement of the gears for quicker shift throws, the feel for the clutch and its friction point (the point where the pedal is lifted to so that the clutch first starts to pull the car), and break-in of the clutch itself. I don't know how knowledgeable you are with cars but clutch break-in has a lot to do with how the car drives at first on a new clutch. From what I understand, a clutch pad and brake pads are made from similar materials. Just as new brakes need a break-in period for the pads to "seat" to the rotors, the clutch pad has to seat to the flywheel until it feels consistant. Hope all this babbling about clutches and transmissions helps a bit.Oh, also don't forget--it is very important not to "ride the clutch" too much. When you have shifted and released the clutch, set your left foot to the left side of the clutch pedal on the footrest pontiac provided. Do this all the time and make it a habit. This is always recommended unless you are racing (which requires a whole different set of driving skills all together). It will make your clutch last much longer and be easier on the car. Even though you don't feel it, leaving your foot on the pedal pushes on it slightly which releases the clutch slightly and makes it wear faster. Every mechanic I have ever talked to about this has told me the same thing. Don't put your foot on the clutch while moving unless you are shifting. And NEVER hold on hills by revving up the engine and holding the clutch part way out (to avoid using the brakes to hold on a hill). Just use the brakes like you are supposed to. This is true for automatics as well. I see people doing this with automatics all the time and it is so bad for the car. When stopped for a while at a stop light, etc., put the car in neutral and let the clutch out until you're ready to go again. Just like resting your foot on the clutch pedal while moving wears it out faster, having the car in gear while stopped and holding the pedal to the floor can wear it faster too because, again, even though you don't feel it, you could be letting up slightly on the pedal and letting the clutch grab slightly. It is safer in neutral too because if you are stopped at a long red light and decide to look around your car for something, your foot won't slip off the pedal and the car fly forward, possibly hitting a pedestrian or the back of the car in front of you. Good luck!

[Stang2Vibe]

Also forgot to mention, since I see that you live in IL, winter driving will be a bit different from an automatic. You have to feather the clutch a little more when starting out in snow or slippery conditions. You can practice for this in a gravel parking lot. Drive around the parking lot stopping and starting out frequently (hopefully in an empty or almost empty lot with little or no traffic in it). When you can consistantly start out from a stop without spinning the front tires you're in good shape. It is preferable to choose a lot or driveway with looser gravel so you get better practice. Starting in snow and slush will be a little more tricky because there is less traction, but if you master the gravel, you will be able to adjust for the snow following the same idea. I also suggest pushing down the clutch pedal when going around a sharp bend in slippery conditions. This keeps the car from spinning the wheels while pulling through the turn and allows maximum traction for the tires to make the turn. To get going again after completing the turn, let the clutch back out slowly, so the wheels don't spin and cause the car to go out of control. Winter driving will feel different with a stick but you will learn through experience. Just don't do anything stupid and don't panic if you start to slide/slip, etc. I always tell people who are new to driving a stick in winter that it is not much different than the rest of the year except you have to go much gentler on all the pedals. In the 8 years that I've been driving (legally), I've never had an accident while driving. I am certainly not the perfect driver, but I'm not bad. Again, best of luck with the car, congrats on buying a Vibe, and welcome to the forum.

[newtomod]

Thanks guys, tons of great tips! Any reason my car acts funny when it hits around 7000 RPMS? it makes a jolting feel.....

[Flip-Side]

I know that at 5000 rpm my head makes a backward tilting motion. Better get the car checked out....

[Stang2Vibe]

You will have to describe a little better what you mean by acting funny and jolting feel. I'm not sure if you actually may have a problem with the car or you are just feeling the added power of when the cam changes over. Also, sorry that my last posts were so long, guess I just had a lot to say .

[newtomod]

My parents said that it could be because I didnt put the best grade gas into the car, it runs like a beauty until I hit 7000 RPMS on the nose, then it makes a jerking motion like it wants me to stop flooring it, when I hit 6000 RPMS, it does that sweet thing where your head shoots back, but then I hit 7 and its like, what the f%$?

[NovaResource]

quote:My parents said that it could be because I didnt put the best grade gas into the car...but then I hit 7 and its like, what the f%$?Yes, the GT requires 91-octane minimum. No more cheap gas.

[m4VibeGT]

Nice post Stang2Vibe. Very informative for stick shift newbies.

[Yoda]

Newt : It is important to keep premium in your car, but that's not what's limiting you to 7000 rpm. The knock sensor works to retard spark (limits power, not RPM) when you use low octane gas and it senses knock(technically, just when it senses knock). I had the same thing happen the other day when I tried to race a friend in a GTP. Your engine is protecting itself from you until it reaches operating temperature : http://www.celicas.co.uk/Tips.htm I knew it wasn't the right thing to do, but he just kept talking and I knew he was running stock. Got off the line faster than he did because he had a little wheelspin, then he caught up fast. I wanted to see if my short gearing was enough to keep him at bay, but my poor baby fell flat on her face (I'm not sure I ever got lift). Needless to say, I won't be doing any more cold drag races.

[tau166]

quote:My parents said that it could be because I didnt put the best grade gas into the car, it runs like a beauty until I hit 7000 RPMS on the nose, then it makes a jerking motion like it wants me to stop flooring itCould this be the rev limiter cutting off fuel so you don't over rev the engine? Someone with a GT help. I don't know what the rev limit is on the GT.

[Yoda]

hello... is this thing on... hello? BTW Tau = rev limit on GT is 8200 (or so) when warm

[andrewmva]

Yoda??? Yo-da-man

[newtomod]

The stupid mechanic guy at the dealership said that I shouldnt go past 7000, that the car wont allow it, but if you guys do it, why shouldnt I be able to kick it into 4th and punch it to hell? Muther F'r!Anyone know if there is any cheap way to give the car some kick, it seems so slow off the line, but then when it hits 6K it's like lightening!

[andrewmva]

NOS is the easiest way to make good power cheap

[DopeVibeGT]

quote:My parents said that it could be because I didnt put the best grade gas into the car...but then I hit 7 and its like, what the f%$?Yes, the GT requires 91-octane minimum. No more cheap gas.Yeah, the higher the better. Sunoco 94 works great.Put a CAI intake on the GT, and it sounds like a race car when the valves change, and a jet sucking in air. Very cool. I it!

[Stang2Vibe]

Umm...I may have gotten the wrong info, but I specifically brought up the octane issue with my dealer when I took delivery of the car. I noticed the "Premium Fuel Only" sticker on the inside of the fuel door and asked about it. They then made a few calls and they were told that running 87 octane (regular) would cause the engine no harm but to make the claimed 180 hp you would have to use 93 octane (premium gas). I noticed some of the problems some of you are describing with the cheap gas and have been running high octane since then. I figured, what the heck, its only like an 11 gallon tank and I'm getting about 220-230 miles before I fill up. Might as well spend the extra cash.Yoda---from what I understand, the Vibe GT engine also has an oil temp sensor and won't let the big cam kick in when the engine oil is below a certain temperature to protect the engine. Low temp=no cam changeover.newtomod---7000 rpm in 4th gear is like, easily over 100 mph! And I get screamed at for driving too fast! Be careful out there, we would like to see some future posts from you. If you suddenly never post to the forum again, I think we all can assume what happened to you

[Stang2Vibe]

quote:Nice post Stang2Vibe. Very informative for stick shift newbies. I'm always glad to help out a little. I'm happy that some of you found it informative, I was afraid of being accused of being long winded.

[QUIKAG]

STang2Vibe,Nice post!! One quick question about the second gear starting. Do you think there is enough torque to start on 2nd gear without slipping the clutch too much?!?!?

[TGebiV]

let your car warm up first and then it will rev up past 7G's i had the same prob on the way home from work one day and i was frekin