M&T wiring question

[Dax]

Ok...here's the deal. I'm installing a HU and 4ch amp soon and I want the amp to replace the M&T one under the pass. seat and reuse the stock speakers. I'm going to run my own power and ground but want to use the existing speaker leads going from the M&T amp instead of running wire all the way to the speakers. However, i've noticed in the wiring diagrams floating around that there are leads going to each separate speaker for the fronts (one set to the tweeters, one to the 'woofers'). So, I have 2 questions. Is the crossover for the front components built into the M&T amp? Or, are there capacitors inline with the tweeters to block the low frequencies?I'm hoping to avoid ripping the door panels off to wire the stock speakers to the new 4ch amp.Thanks alot and i'm loving the new Vibe!Dax

[cdFxer]

Used factory wiring for all my speakers (except the subs of course). The front tweeter/speaker combo's were replaced with component speakers with the crossover boxes under the front passenger seat. My amp is also under the passenger seat. Hint: buy two wiring harnesses-1 for the new head unit and 1 to use under the seat. Save a little cutting and splicing time, plus m,ake it that much easier to go back to stock in the future.

[Dax]

Quote, originally posted by cdFxer »The front tweeter/speaker combo's were replaced with component speakers with the crossover boxes under the front passenger seat.Therein lies the problem. I'm not installing new components so I needed to know if I should send the tweeters a full spectrum signal or install a capacitor to block the low frequencies to it. I know replacing them would be the best scenario, but i'm poor right now Maybe if someone has a service manual and could check it out for me, please? Thanks!Dax**Edit** I've since found the answer to my question on matrixvibe.com http://www.matrixvibe.net/foru...iring Thanks for your help though!

[cdFxer]

Well since we dont know the specs on the tweeters, getting the correct blocking caps would be inexact (but for factory, close is probably good enough). But if you want to make assumptions on them, then yes you should use blocking caps on them! Sorry about missing that in your original post.

[johnsoax]

Don't forget that the factory speakers are a 2 ohm load, so make sure that your amp is 2 ohm stable. (If all car amps are 2 ohm stable forgive me, I havn't bought an amplifier for 6-7 years, and back when I used to install them, I used to have to make sure that they could handle the extra current.)

[Dax]

Quote, originally posted by johnsoax »Don't forget that the factory speakers are a 2 ohm load, so make sure that your amp is 2 ohm stable. (If all car amps are 2 ohm stable forgive me, I havn't bought an amplifier for 6-7 years, and back when I used to install them, I used to have to make sure that they could handle the extra current.)Well, the install went great last night. I used the M&T amp wiring diagram from this site to splice my amp into the wiring harnesses. I was able to use some Scotchlok's so I can revert back to stock pretty easily. I didn't have any problems with FM or AM reception, so i'm happy! The next step is to install the sub amp, sub, and XM. Thanks alot for replying!Dax