2010 2.4L Tune Up/Maintenance Q's

[Waynosan]

Hey all,
I have a 2010 (final year) base automatic Vibe with the 2.4L engine with ~115k miles on the ODO. I consider its use case as "normal", mixed surface and high-way, no towing. There's a little bit of clicking from the engine but that's always been there. Car is due to for tune-up, and before I start I wanted to check in to see if there are any recommendations vs. the service manual. Here's what I plan to do:

1. Accessory belt: Never changed. Are there any hard recommendations for a replacement?
2. Plugs: Will go with iridium, I don't need the top-of-the line. Suggestions?
3. Coolant: Last replaced about 10 years ago; I don't recall what I used since the phone I had the info saved on died unexpectedly. I think replacing with the same "color" is the recommendation?
4. Auto trans fluid: Plan to drain and refill. Fluid recommendations? Any "gotcha's" with this one, since it's supposed to be "lifetime" fluid?
5. Misc items: All replaced regularly - like air filter, cabin air filter, battery, brakes
6. Anything missing that I should check or replace? Is there a fuel filter on this car?

[SSizler]

I am not a 2nd gen guy, but I'll post my thoughts, worth exactly what you are paying for them.

1. Accessory belt: Never changed. Are there any hard recommendations for a replacement?

I prefer to watch eBay for new old stock Goodyear Gatorback belts. They are the quietest belt I have ever used.
Be sure to clean your pulleys well and I would check / replace the belt tensioner also. INA makes the OEM tensioner on 1st gen.

2. Plugs: Will go with iridium, I don't need the top-of-the line. Suggestions?

I would use Denso iridium plugs. That is what the factory put in them. Good enough for me.

3. Coolant: Last replaced about 10 years ago; I don't recall what I used since the phone I had the info saved on died unexpectedly. I think replacing with the same "color" is the recommendation?

I would go to your closest Toyota dealer and get a couple of gallons of their red coolant. I prefer undiluted. The pre-diluted stuff is OK too.
If you strayed from Toyota red, you should flush the system also.
Always use distilled water in the coolant mixture.

4. Auto trans fluid: Plan to drain and refill. Fluid recommendations? Any "gotcha's" with this one, since it's supposed to be "lifetime" fluid?

While at the Toyota dealer for coolant, purchase a case of their trans fluid.
I use Type IV. Not sure about 2nd gen, whatever they use for a '10 Matrix will do.
I don't know if gen2 has a trans drain plug, If not you will need a filter kit with a pan gasket.

5. Misc items: All replaced regularly - like air filter, cabin air filter, battery, brakes

Keep it up.

6. Anything missing that I should check or replace? Is there a fuel filter on this car?

I think the fuel filter is in the tank. Never changed one on a Vibe.
Always use top tier fuel, no ethanol, and there shouldn't be a need to.
May want to replace the PCV valve and remove / clean the throttle body and MAF.
I always clean the inside of the air filter to throttle body tube while it is off and the MAF is out.

There is always more to do. I am glad I enjoy working on these simple to maintain cars.

Jim

[Waynosan]

Thanks for your thoughts SSizler,
I forgot about the PVC valve... recall replacing that a few times on my old 2.3L Mustang. I don't remember seeing that item in the Owner's manual maintenance schedule, but it's been a while since I looked at it.

I thought I had the service manual for my Vibe, but turns out I don't. I think this will be an opportunity to see if/how the "AI" tools can help. I tried perplexity last night and it came up with a pretty nice step-by-step for the spark plug change, but no pictures.

[jolt]

I would also change out the transmission filter, while you have the oil drained. The transmission fluid is spec out on the dip stick and is type WS. This was changed from the first gen Vibes fluid.

The PCV valve is at the back of the valve cover on passenger side and is threaded into valve cover. The threads have locktight/sealant on them so the valve turns hard to get it out.

You may want to change out the belt tensioner, along with the belt as recommended by the belt manufactures. It is not a fun job. The tensioner is located at the bottom of the belt drive system, by the crankshaft pulley. It is best to get to it from under the car. There is one long mounting bolt for the tensioner that can not be fully unscrewed from the engine unless you unbolt the upper engine mount, don't forget to remove the nut that is under the upper mount, and jack that end of the engine up. You only need to lift the engine enough for the bolt to clear the frame rail on the inner wheel well, then you can unscrew the bolt and remove the tensioner.

Use Denso spark plugs for the best performance and coil life from the engine.