Rear Door Check Replacement How-To

[shrout1]

I couldn't find any instructions on how to replace the driver's side rear door check on my 2004 Vibe, so I took some pictures and I'll post them here to help others.

For removing the rear door panel this video on replacing a rear door handle is very useful.

This is *extremely* similar to the front door check, so if you know how to do that you can probably tackle this without help. Gonna go 5 pictures at a time here since that's the attachment limit.

First remove the screw that is behind the small cover above the door handle:

1_Door_Handle_Screw.jpg (882.08 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

Next remove the screw that is inside of the door pocket:

2_Door_Pocket_Screw.jpg (851.95 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

Now pull the door pocket straight up and out; it might take a little coaxing:

3_Door_Pocket_Removal_Small.jpg (877.69 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

Take note that there are alignment holes at the bottom of the door pocket; you'll need to align the pegs on the bottom of the pocket with these when re-installing the door panel.

4_Door_Pocket_Alignment.jpg (844.43 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

Now start removing the door panel. It's held on quite firmly with body clips; I used a non-marring body panel tool.

5_Door_Panel_Clip_Removal_Small.jpg (962.27 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

[shrout1]

You can see the body clip in the panel here near the latch. I placed my pry tool right next to it and applied a fair amount of force. You'll have to repeat this all along the edge of the panel until all the clips are free:

6_Door_Panel_Clip_Side_View.jpg (731.99 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

Once all the body panel clips have been popped out you'll have to lift the panel upwards while pulling it towards you a little. It rests on the bottom of the window sill:

7_Door_Panel_Lift_Upwards.jpg (824.2 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

Looking down once the panel is off you'll see the window controller switch. It has a connector that's a little annoying to get off.

8_Window_Controller_Clip.jpg (602.23 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

I found that pinching the back of the plug and wiggling it left and right while pulling got the connector apart. Took more force than I was expecting, probably because it's been stuck together for 20 years:

9_Window_Controller_Plug_Disconnected.jpg (427.97 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

Next find the nearest "My First Christmas Tree" box that you've been keeping in the attic and toss the door panel in there:

10_Panel_In_Box.jpg (828.09 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

[shrout1]

I then disconnected my speaker plug so that it wouldn't be in the way of the plastic sheathing when lifted:

11_Disconnect_Speaker.jpg (562.88 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

I ended up using a breaker bar and deep socket 10mm on the doorwell bolt to break it free.

12_10MM_Breaker_on_doorwell.jpg (808.12 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

Once free you'll see that the original bolt had some blue loctite on it. I added more loctite before I reinstalled it.

13_10MM_Doorwell_bolt_loctite.jpg (480.43 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

I then took out one of the 10mm bolts from the door side of the check and got the other finger-loose

14_Pull_Door_bolt_and_loosen.jpg (628.88 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

I busted out the wife's hairdryer (thanks babe! ) and warmed up the butyl where I needed to peel it back. Go slowly, no need to rush this step.

15_Hairdryer_Butyl.jpg (538.49 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

[shrout1]

Now you just have to lift back the sheathing, grab the inside of the door check (reach through the hole in the door frame) and loosen the top door bolt the rest of the way.

16_Pull_back_sheathing_small.jpg (758.75 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

There's the old check, removed!:

17_Remove_old_check.jpg (610.99 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

Slide the new check back into the same hole in the frame and get it oriented. I finger tightened bolts into all the holes before I closed the sheathing up. I ran the dryer back over the butyl on the sheathing to try and melt things back together a bit... Probably should have dug by my butyl tape, wherever the heck it went. This is a good time to add some new butyl.

Tighten up your bolts:

18_Install_new_Check_Small.jpg (857.44 KiB) Viewed 2029 times

Now work all the other steps backwards to reinstall the door panel. Don't forget to reconnect the speaker!

Enjoy the new door check! I used the cheap TRQ one; we'll see if it holds up!

[ColonelPanic]

Excellent work on the how-to!

I did this a couple years ago using four new TRQ's. I like that they had the different ones for left vs right for the front so there was no need to modify. Some of them squeak, some pop right before the door is fully open. But they stop the doors unlike the worn out OEM ones, and that's all that really matters at this point.

[tpollauf]

Nice write up! I just realized how bad, or totally gone, my drivers door is! May have to undertake this task real soon too!

[shrout1]

Nice write up! I just realized how bad, or totally gone, my drivers door is! May have to undertake this task real soon too!

This was not a tough job I should have redone all the butyl while I was in there... I redid the butyl when I did the driver's door check a few years ago. Be careful with the old plastic! Take your time! A friend was helping me with the driver's door and the retaining clip (on the door panel) broke when he handled it a bit rough The window / lock controls have been flopping around a bit for the past 3 years. I'm going to take the panel off and hope that the broken piece is still floating around in there. Perhaps I can jbweld it back together and make it good again. We'll see!

[shrout1]

Excellent work on the how-to!

I did this a couple years ago using four new TRQ's. I like that they had the different ones for left vs right for the front so there was no need to modify. Some of them squeak, some pop right before the door is fully open. But they stop the doors unlike the worn out OEM ones, and that's all that really matters at this point.

Good to know that the TRQs last! I'm going to leave a better amazon review for them.