2ZZ belt tensioner replacement

[ZZvroom]

So my hunt for the grumbling bearing continues. When we could not get the tensioner loose to get the belt off, the job morphed into "First replace the tensioner, then.."

First was seeking a source. The only explicit callout to the 2ZZ I found was the Dayco 89733. They were out of stock everywhere I checked. A friend of a friend races 2ZZ's so I asked him if I should get Toyota part, or an aftermarket. At his advice I went to PartsGeek.com and got the Metrex Part #: W0133-1894695 and of course the next day, RockAuto got the Dayco back in stock but with a $20+ price increase.

Two questions:

1. As for installation, the GM manual says zero about removing motor mounts & jacking the engine up. The writeup I found here is on the 1ZZ, it goes into detail on such; has anyone done a 2ZZ?
2. The PartsGeek page https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/ ... _assembly gives stern warnings about installing the tensioner, but they are cut off.

So I ask if anyone has installed a 2ZZ tensioner, and/or knows what Metrex is talking about re: tensioning the tensioner?

[ZZvroom]

A friend found https://youtu.be/abxTekwidY8 which is fair warning on the job's issues.

[zbyers]

Replacing the 2ZZ belt tensioner is nearly identical to doing it on the 1ZZ. The reason for unbolting the motor mount is the long bolt that holds the tensioner on will not clear the frame, so removing the mount and jacking up the engine gives the clearance.

[ZZvroom]

The curious aspect to me is the factory manual's total lack of mentioning the motor-mount aspect of the job.

The obvious potential disaster issue is getting the long bolt loose vs. stripping /breaking it off in the block.
The You-tube mentions heating the block around the bolt, but with an aluminum block, that's rather scary.

A further complication is the chain tensioner. I see a leak from the engine cover near the belt tensioner, and I've read here the chain tensioner is prone to leaking. It looks far more complex to got into it to replace, including having to retime the valves.

[zbyers]

The curious aspect to me is the factory manual's total lack of mentioning the motor-mount aspect of the job.

*Shrug* probably since it isn't a huge ordeal.

The obvious potential disaster issue is getting the long bolt loose vs. stripping /breaking it off in the block.
The You-tube mentions heating the block around the bolt, but with an aluminum block, that's rather scary.

I haven't heated the block at all. One sheared off on it's own, and it still was easy to extract the broken bolt.

A further complication is the chain tensioner. I see a leak from the engine cover near the belt tensioner, and I've read here the chain tensioner is prone to leaking. It looks far more complex to got into it to replace, including having to retime the valves.

Replacing valve cover gasket requires zero things other than basically a 10mm socket and the new gasket.
Timing chain tensioner o-ring is just two 10mm (I think) nuts. remove those, loosen the belt tensioner up so the timing chain tensioner can be removed. Replace, crank engine over using alternator nut (22mm I think) to get the new tensioner to hook onto the chain. all done.

All of these things are non-issues and are pretty easy straightforward jobs.

I had minimal mechanical experience until I bought a Vibe. I have seen done an engine swap, replaced a clutch, and replaced several subframes. Basically have done everything to the car except rebuild motor/tranny and body work.

They are very easy cars to work and great for a first timer to use to learn on.

Call a buddy with experience. Pay him in adult beverages. Win-win.

[ZZvroom]

A friend of a friend has done a lot of work on 2ZZ's as he races them. He has one on an engine stand in his garage that he was putting in a Corolla.

He offered to look at it and was sure it was not seized. "You need a bigger wrench...."

After using such a wrench, he admitted the tensioner pivot is, yep, seized to the long bolt. He pointed out the aluminum casting has a pressed-in steel sleeve to meet the bolt, and that's how it rusted.

He suggests getting Kroil in/around the sleeve/bolt, and heating it with a propane torch, then a sharp wack on the tensioner.

My suggestion to others is: Put wrenches on your tensioner and exercise it periodically, so you're not in my boat.

[joatmon]

Assuming this thread is about the serpentine/fan/accessory drive rubber belt tensioner

My 2003 Vibe factory service manual doesn't say anything about motor mounts for either the 1ZZ or 2ZZ. just

disconnect the battery
take off the belt
take off the lower bolt
take off the nut on the upper stud and slide the tensioner off

Never did one, so I can't say more about that.

Now if its about timing chain tensioner, that's a different story, and it is more involved on the 2ZZ than the 1ZZ.
See viewtopic.php?t=44901

[zbyers]

Assuming this thread is about the serpentine/fan/accessory drive rubber belt tensioner

Yeah, the manuals don't mention anything of it, but that passenger side engine mount by the PS fluid reservoir needs unbolted so you can jack the engine up and get clearance for the long bolt that holds it to the block. It's silly, but much better than what I just had to do replacing the water pump on my '12 Highlander.

[ZZvroom]

So here's the next chapter of the saga.

I took the car to a well-known Japanese repair garage in Ballston VA.
Besides the recommendations I had, I stopped by and asked about the job.
The desk guy discussed it with the 2 others, in Japanese....

They did the job, and when I picked it up, I asked how they did.
They used an induction heater on idler. That's not a tool I have at hand.
And it was EXACTLY the right one to use. 3 Thumbs Up.

So I'm happy. The flip side is the grumbling noise is clearly the waterpump.
So it is NOT something bad: AC/PS/AC. Still an eventual issue but...

For now, I plan to exercise the tensioner every few months to avoid a future seizure.

[sgossett9]

You are overthinking this. With the pulley, u need to remove the 3 14m bolts where the motor mount is bolted to the engine bay on the right. I had a jack with wood block under the pan. I lifted engine as high as i could, maybe 4-5in. To loosed the tension was the hardest for me--i used the 19mm 6point socket and i couldnt loosen it. Til the point i snapped off that nut. So i cut the belt. Then i removed the 12mm holding the tensioner piston to the stud, and the 17mm long bolt to the block. With the engine lifted up, and effort and maneuvering, it'll come out pretty easy. I know i also pulled off the little hvac cannister that is plugged in and connected to the 2 tubes, and i had that bungee corded to the side. Also i had the psteer pump 2 10mm bolts that hold that to the engine bay removed, and the 10mm up on the strut tower to hold that ac line removed. I had the ac line bungeed with the electrical bunch of wires pulled out the way, and the psteer pump bungeed out the way.

Then when u remove the tensioner pulley u can even re use it if the 19mm nut is broken or stripped by bypassing this nut by using a c clamp (like the ones to compress caliper pistons) to compress the shock... its actually easier than fighting w the 19mm nut. The reason i know is i had to replace the tensioner cause i snapped that 19mm off trying to take the belt off, and i bought the replacement but the replacement was for the 1zz engine and didnt fit. I had already replaced the timing chain tensioner o ring and snapped a bolt tightening the nut for that tensioner to the 168 inch pound spec, so i had just dealt with all that and solved that oil leak (by the way, use oem gasket or buy new gasket from toyota dealer cause the autozone replacement part has a (removed) gasket and thats why i had to redo the job). So by the time i did all that i was sick of running around and could clearly see i could compress that piston w a c clamp. So when i put it back on the car i was able to compress it with the c clamp easily myself and still route the belt and get it on while it held, and i didnt have to waste more money on the job by replacing the tensioner.

I had that tensioner in and out like 3 times at least. It's easy. Don't overstress it. I had just did the timing chain cover job a few mos before it. I'm just a normal guy in my garage im not a shop. Just use ur brain and dont overthink it. Everytime i overthink it before i start, i realize that overthinking it was my main mistake. Usually car stuff, the simplest solution is the right solution.