03 vibe diagnosing and replacing motor mounts?

[ecchristian]

Hey y’all, I own a pretty beat up 03 vibe that I’m just trying to keep alive for as long as I can. My current issue is that there is a creaking sound when I turn right exclusively. My own research online made me believe this is a cv axel issue however I took it to a mechanic near me and they said the cv joint was fine and that the creaking was because my engine mounts are going bad. Main question is does this sound like an accurate diagnosis by anyone who has had this issue and also did you change your own engine mounts? I’ve been trying to get into my own auto repair instead of going to mechanics and wasn’t sure how difficult of a repair this is for a normal at home garage.

Thanks!

[Bookworm]

Motor mounts, at a minimum, require a good jack with a soft lift point. (wooden block or similar)

Search around, the link for the 03 manual is around on the site, and they're more tedious to replace than difficult.

[ecchristian]

Thanks a lot I have a floor jack and some wood blocks so I think I’ll be good, I didn’t know the manual was on this forum thanks for that info!

[Bookworm]

You're welcome. Just be glad they're not as much of a PITA to replace as an '81 Ford Escort. That front motor mount was a stone... mother of a puppy.

[zbyers]

The front and side mounts are pretty easy to replace...The rear mount is another story.

[ecchristian]

Would just replacing those two be okay or is it kinda like you have to replace all 3 at a time to ensure proper function?

[SeattleJeremy]

If you are going to replace the front one, then the rear one needs to be replaced at the same time. When accelerating and decelerating in a straight line you are loading the rear and front mounts. The engine wants to move around, if you only replace the front, it will move around on the rear mount more.
The trick to change motor mounts on this car is to change the rear one first. Having a squishy front one makes it easier to move the engine around to install the rear one.

[ecchristian]

Thanks! And this work can be done at home with just standard tools and a floor jack and some wood blocks?

[SeattleJeremy]

I hope someone else can chime in on how it went for them. For a while (like a summer) I had a set of poly bushing inserts in my motor mounts, but my mechanic installed/uninstalled them.

Here's one video I found that was helpful for the rear one. I'd recommended a peace of wood between the transmission and the jack.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jj1_iIwHbw

[zbyers]

They can definitely be done at home, but that rear is an expletive. To do the rear, basically you'll need a lot of extensions to reach it through the drivers side wheel well to loosen the bolt. after the bolt is removed, then it's really a matter of fighting the mount out around everything. you will come out with bloody knuckles, maybe the mount, and lots of swear words you never knew of. also: have adult beverages on hand for when you are victorious. tbh, if the front/rear mount aren't bad i probably wouldn't worry too much because it is a PITA on the rear. lol.

the side mounts are easy, and the front mount is straight forward...pun intended

as others side, if you do them replace the pairs (sides together, front/back together).

[blue_can]

I would not rely on a jack to hold up the engine while doing this if that is what is being suggested. I would suggest getting and using an engine support beam. There should be a hook on the engine designed for lifting the engine out which you can attach the beam to. You can use the jack as a secondary support from below if necessary. The beam should also allow you to raise and lower the engine as needed in order to do the job.

I've not changed mounts on a Vibe so I don't have any specific advice on doing this on a Vibe.

[zbyers]

I would not rely on a jack to hold up the engine while doing this if that is what is being suggested. I would suggest getting and using an engine support beam. There should be a hook on the engine designed for lifting the engine out which you can attach the beam to. You can use the jack as a secondary support from below if necessary. The beam should also allow you to raise and lower the engine as needed in order to do the job.

I've not changed mounts on a Vibe so I don't have any specific advice on doing this on a Vibe.

The engine is not being removed from the vehicle, nor are all mounts being removed at the same time. you could remove 3 of the 4 mounts (usually i leave the passenger side mount in) and let the engine rest on the subframe while you're doing what you need. this is exactly how i've replaced the clutch.

[blue_can]

The engine is not being removed from the vehicle, nor are all mounts being removed at the same time. you could remove 3 of the 4 mounts (usually i leave the passenger side mount in) and let the engine rest on the subframe while you're doing what you need. this is exactly how i've replaced the clutch.

The procedure in the FSM for motor mount replacement is to use a support bar - not a jack. Now I've not replaced the mounts on a Vibe so if the procedure can be carried out safely even if the jack suffered hydraulic failure then I guess you can use that method. I generally use support beams when the engine needs support such as when puling the transmission or the mounts.

[zbyers]

Engine cradle does provide support. Wouldn't hurt to find a way to use a hoist and/or jack stands. But a few other members and myself have never done so doing it. The subframe provides a natural support and works great. As long as you leave one mount in, the whole engine is still lined up. It'll take a little bit of shifting, but everything will line up much easier than if you were to remove all 4 mounts at the same time.

[brandon4987]

I just replaced front and rear on mine. Rear was indeed a pain. The replacement mount I bought anchor 9155 was too long on right side to drop into the bracket like the OEM one does. It does fit, the trick is to slide it behind and underneath the bracket that's bolted to transmission (easier said than done) you can just shave the right side with an angle grinder using the OEM as a guide. The front it a peice of cake which took about 15 minutes and didn't even have to jack the car up. Just used a wood block and jack to support it while bolts were out.

[SeattleJeremy]

On the part that you angle grinded, did you seal the metal edge with paint or primer? I can't imagine they'd make that part with stainless.

[zbyers]

On the part that you angle grinded, did you seal the metal edge with paint or primer? I can't imagine they'd make that part with stainless.

I did something similar, and did paint over it after cutting. we actually ended up cutting the rubber dampener totally off (not recommended SOOOOO much vibration). But the mount fell right in after we did that.

[brandon4987]

On the part that you angle grinded, did you seal the metal edge with paint or primer? I can't imagine they'd make that part with stainless.

The thought crossed my mind, but honestly I didn't bother. Would definitely be wise to hit it with some paint to prevent corrosion. The reason for replacing mine was terrible vibration when idling in reverse or drive. I bought the 3 motor mounts and 1 transmission mount. I was pretty bummed after replacing the front and back with no noticeable difference, however I changed both side mounts earlier today and the vibration is totally gone now.

[Bookworm]

If I get motivated to do this, I'll head over to my folks. The replacement garage building has an I-beam extension coming out of the front. I'll just hook a block and tackle on it, and lock the other end with a marlin-spike to the building.

[Relativist]

Is it ok to just do the side supports? I suspect that’s all mine needs.

[zbyers]

Is it ok to just do the side supports? I suspect that’s all mine needs.

Yes, when replacing the mounts it is okay to do the pairs. Sides together, and front/rear together. Do not replace just one.

[svt4cam]

I could be way wrong, but the op's problem really sounds like cv's and not motor mounts.

[Cookie]

Hello,

I am a new member of the GenVibe community and thank you for letting me join. I am an owner of a "Salsa Red" 07 VIbe base model (ithink) and I am getting a vibration in the cabin and steering wheel while the car is idling. The Vibe-bration becomes stronger in reverse and while in drive when held at a stop. When I shift gears I can see some significant engine movement as well. I suspect I have some old motor/trans mounts that are going out. I inspected the front and I am not seeing any obvious cracks, but it does look weathered and dry. I can see a small crack in the rear mount's rubber and it looks pretty dry too. I have a belt tensioner that looks like its starting to go as well, but I don't think its the main culprit for the vibrations.
The car has lived in California since its birth at the NUMMI plant. Currently has 125,500 miles on the ticker. I am comfortable replacing the mounts, but I am curious if anyone has ever purchased the OEM Toyota parts? If so what ones and did you think it was worth it? I can get the Toyota OEM pair for $189 with shipping. The price is pretty steep compared to nearly all of the aftermarket options but am I wrong for not skimping out on the mounts. The plan is to replace the other pair later this year. Let me know what you folks think before I pull the trigger on this purchase.

Rear mount Toyota Part # 12371-0D110
Front mount Toyota Part# 12361-0D100

Fairly sure those are the right part numbers as there are couple alternatives depending on engine and type of transmission.

[zbyers]

IMHO, as long as you don't get the absolute dirt cheap mounts, nor used mounts from a junkyard, anything will be an improvement.

[cptnsolo77]

Hello,

I am a new member of the GenVibe community and thank you for letting me join. I am an owner of a "Salsa Red" 07 VIbe base model (ithink) and I am getting a vibration in the cabin and steering wheel while the car is idling. The Vibe-bration becomes stronger in reverse and while in drive when held at a stop. When I shift gears I can see some significant engine movement as well. I suspect I have some old motor/trans mounts that are going out. I inspected the front and I am not seeing any obvious cracks, but it does look weathered and dry. I can see a small crack in the rear mount's rubber and it looks pretty dry too. I have a belt tensioner that looks like its starting to go as well, but I don't think its the main culprit for the vibrations.
The car has lived in California since its birth at the NUMMI plant. Currently has 125,500 miles on the ticker. I am comfortable replacing the mounts, but I am curious if anyone has ever purchased the OEM Toyota parts? If so what ones and did you think it was worth it? I can get the Toyota OEM pair for $189 with shipping. The price is pretty steep compared to nearly all of the aftermarket options but am I wrong for not skimping out on the mounts. The plan is to replace the other pair later this year. Let me know what you folks think before I pull the trigger on this purchase.

Rear mount Toyota Part # 12371-0D110
Front mount Toyota Part# 12361-0D100

Fairly sure those are the right part numbers as there are couple alternatives depending on engine and type of transmission.

Where are you getting the mounts for that price ? Cheapest I found is 186 PLUS shipping. Im in the same boat as you....vibration in steering wheel and ALL my mounts have visible cracks.No check engine light and my gas mileage is great, also cleaned everything that can be cleaned. Only thing left is the mounts. OEM is signifigantly more than aftermarket, but I have read most aftermarket ones have fitment issues and giving owners headaches during install....that's why Im going with OEM...the quality is MUCH better too. I found some great DIY vids on all the mounts and I can post them if you need.

[zbyers]

Where are you getting the mounts for that price ? Cheapest I found is 186 PLUS shipping. Im in the same boat as you....vibration in steering wheel and ALL my mounts have visible cracks.No check engine light and my gas mileage is great, also cleaned everything that can be cleaned. Only thing left is the mounts. OEM is signifigantly more than aftermarket, but I have read most aftermarket ones have fitment issues and giving owners headaches during install....that's why Im going with OEM...the quality is MUCH better too. I found some great DIY vids on all the mounts and I can post them if you need.

These guys have some of the best prices for OEM Toyota parts.

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/

[cptnsolo77]

Where are you getting the mounts for that price ? Cheapest I found is 186 PLUS shipping. Im in the same boat as you....vibration in steering wheel and ALL my mounts have visible cracks.No check engine light and my gas mileage is great, also cleaned everything that can be cleaned. Only thing left is the mounts. OEM is signifigantly more than aftermarket, but I have read most aftermarket ones have fitment issues and giving owners headaches during install....that's why Im going with OEM...the quality is MUCH better too. I found some great DIY vids on all the mounts and I can post them if you need.

These guys have some of the best prices for OEM Toyota parts.

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/

Thx ! I created a separate post with vids on how to replace engine mounts in maintenance bay.

[Cookie]

Where are you getting the mounts for that price ? Cheapest I found is 186 PLUS shipping. Im in the same boat as you....vibration in steering wheel and ALL my mounts have visible cracks.No check engine light and my gas mileage is great, also cleaned everything that can be cleaned. Only thing left is the mounts. OEM is signifigantly more than aftermarket, but I have read most aftermarket ones have fitment issues and giving owners headaches during install....that's why Im going with OEM...the quality is MUCH better too. I found some great DIY vids on all the mounts and I can post them if you need.

These guys have some of the best prices for OEM Toyota parts.

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/

Check McGeorge Toyota's online parts. It's about $400 for all four mounts.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/ ... gL1d_D_BwE

On a 06 Volvo XC90 we replaced a front lower mount with an aftermarket over a year ago and it has worked out fine thus far. Took out the shake and appears to be in good condition still. It's one of those hydraulic types so I hope it holds up. But even then that aftermarket part was still pretty pricey only being ~20% less than the OEM. I recently did the upper mount with an "aftermarket" that was actually the OEM but they grinded off the word "Volvo" off the mount. Not completely sure why and how that works but Hutchinson was able to sell a brand new OEM to me for significantly less than the branded OEM part. Not sure who actually manufactures the toyota mounts so I haven't figured out that option for the Vibe.

The cliche that "you get what you pay for" rings in my head everytime I look at those deals where all four mounts cost the same price of one OEM mount. I have talked to folks where they bought those packages and it worked out fine. My neighbor with a Chevy Astro van put them in and they are fine. But I hear too many other stories where the common complaints are that aftermarket mounts are a PITA to install, don't fit properly, don't perform well, and don't last. With the plan to replace them myself I figure the cost I save in labor can go towards the mounts.

I ordered the front and rear I'll let you guys know how it works out for me.

Here is a Pontiac Vibe Youtube playlist:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... -_hvcCozZF

[Bookworm]

I'll be honest. I'm not too fussed about how long they last, considering how old these cars are.

I don't see dropping $267 on an ACDelco, when _all_ of the aftermarkets are under $50.

What I'm confused about is things like this -
"Front Right; Automatic trans.; w/o HO; w/ MU5"

Okay - HO would be 'high output' - but what defines high output? I have no idea what MU5 might mean.

It looks like there are three different sets depending on manual/automatic transmission, and something to do with 'high output' and MU5.

Also, wouldn't toyota corolla mounts work for the Vibe? At least for the 03-08 years?

[Cookie]

Yeah probably something to do with the transmission types. I think the Corolla, Matrix, and Vibe all rock the same mounts.

[Bookworm]

Just as a note. As a replacement for support beams that isn't hydraulic, you can use a screw jack.

I know people will immediately go 'no way!' but there are good reasons why cars still come with screw jacks.

1) No seals to fail.
2) Because it's a rotational tension, the amount of force transfer necessary to make the screw spin is more than a car can weigh.

Basically, it's a jack stand that you can adjust by mils. (not millimeters, mils) I wouldn't use four screw jacks in place of jack stands, but for fine adjustments on lifting and lowering an engine? Sure. Mind you, they _have_ screw jack stands, but $230 is a bit much for one stand.

There's a reason they use them for leveling houses.

(Personally, I'd rather have one of those portable vehicle hoists using a screw jack, rather than a hydraulic cylinder. I don't think anyone makes them.)

I keep meaning to track down some old ones, maybe I'll hit up a salvage yard and see if they have a set. I'll get big square plates welded to the bottom to give them better bases. With a hex fitting on the end, I can use a drill to gently raise and lower my car without the lurching side to side that going with a hydraulic jack and jack stands causes.

[zbyers]

Okay - HO would be 'high output' - but what defines high output? I have no idea what MU5 might mean.

Also, wouldn't toyota corolla mounts work for the Vibe? At least for the 03-08 years?

MU5, I believe, is the trans code for the 2003-2006 AWD.

As for Corolla mounts, they might work. Comparing to toyota website would be best.

[Cookie]

Whelp, I have changed three of the four mounts. Yesterday it was the front mount which is technically on the right side of the engine if you are facing the front of the engine. It was relatively easy to replace. I did end up loosening the fan shroud to make getting the mount out easier. Didn't have to remove the shroud completely just enough to make room to clear the mount coming out. The mount was in fair condition with a little cracking. The rubber seemed old but may have had some life left in it.
After which I went after the rear mount. It was PITA for sure. I didn't struggle with getting in and out, but more so on getting the engine bracket hole to line up with the center rubber hole on the mount. Out of all the mounts thus far it is definitely the one it can help to have an extra pair of hands. The old mount that came out was original and shot. Had a crack clean thru the rubber reaching each side. Not terrible terrible but definitely worth changing. After changing both the front and rear (left and right (transverse)) mounts the engine was definitely smoother at idle. But when I shifted it around the gears things were still pretty shakey. I took it for a test drive and that seemed to help it out. The engine did seem to shift better through the drive gears as i was driving around. I wasn't sure on torque specs for these mounts and I did find some specs but it seemed to only cover the center bolts that went thru the rubber. For the most part i just made sure they were good and tight and I did apply a small dab of red locktite on the bolts. I haven't yet found numbers for the bolts that secure the mounts to the sub assembly. Once I find the numbers I'll post them here. All and all it took about 4 hours to get the front and rear. With the rear chewing up about 3 hours.

Today I changed out the tranny mount (actual rear?) and it was super easy to do with the biggest pain in the (removed) being that I had to remove the air box and battery. Which provided a great opportunity to clean up the air box and that section of the engine bay. The mount itself was totally shot with big cracks in the rubber going clean thru. Definitely the worse one yet. I supported the tranny with a jack while I was removing it and it didn't shift at all. Which was a welcomed after messing around with the rear mount. So all I got left is the front mount (passenger side) which is by the belt. It looks like its in fair condition so maybe the last owner changed this one out already but we'll see. Im planning on doing a more thorough write up and ill post it here when I am done with the job.

[shrout1]

Necro but I just pulled the rear motor mount out on my '04. That was a bear. Tried for about 2 hours last night and decided to give it one more go this morning...

You *must* remove the air intake and battery and relocate the cruise control module up and to the left. I also unbolted the cruise control module bracket and moved it down to the right. There is no clear path for removal otherwise. Take a bunch of pictures as you peel it apart to make it easier to reassemble. I then found all my mount bolts and soaked them in kroil after removing the intake. I let it soak overnight and reapplied when I started removing the mounts.

For reference, this video is very, very helpful:

https://youtu.be/B-EyHZkw0Dk?si=KeMMK9FZVd2jc8XB

I used the spare tire jack and the rubber pad for my floor jack to lift the transmission - I was inspired by the guy in the video. I jacked up the transmission where it bolts to the engine, not under the transmission pan.

For starters, get some upward tension on the transmission; don't go nuts but maybe 3 turns on the tire jack once it's butted up against the transmission. Get a 17mm impact socket and a long extension; the longer the better. Look in through the driver's side wheel well and you'll plainly see the bolt that attaches the mount to the motor bracket. If you're using a breaker bar you will probably need a 2 foot long extension; I personally used a small impact driver and a 10 inch extension; it barely all fit. Break that bolt loose, reach in and fish it out once it's free.

There are 3 nuts and 1 bolt in the subframe beneath the mount; the video I linked above shows where those all are. I personally used a 14 mm impact rated deep socket and a small impact gun to remove them all. I'd imagine that a breaker bar will work just fine. If you're working on the ground I hope you're not claustrophobic for this part After 20 years they were pretty filthy.

NOW COMES THE FUN PART; congrats you just did all the easy stuff.

Next I removed all the 14mm mounting bolts connected to the frame from the driver's side motor mount; it will rest in place if you leave the mount connected to the motor. I used an impact where I could, a breaker where I could and lots of penetrant. The back rear frame bolt on the driver's side mount seemed like it was going to round... thankfully it didn't. I advise a long 6 point box end wrench for that particular bolt; I only had a 12 point and was lucky it didn't round out. I hit it with more kroil and waited another 10 minutes before trying a second time.

I then removed the nuts from the front motor mount, also 14 mm. These can be accessed under the front of the car.

Now the motor is mostly free (minus the passenger side mount) and can be moved up and down with the tire jack. This is also a great time to replace the driver's side lower control arm (going to do that tonight).

Watch this portion of my linked video until the author gets the mount free:

https://youtu.be/B-EyHZkw0Dk?si=KeMMK9FZVd2jc8XB&t=488

He mentions that he started with the motor high up, freed the mount and then lowered the motor down. I did the same. I got the long stud free from the subframe but was having a very hard time rotating the mount out from the bracket. I gave up last night and lowered the motor so that it didn't strain the CV axles overnight.

This morning I decided to take one more crack at it. With the motor lowered but the mount still free I was able to tilt the top of the mount almost all the way back to the engine (you see it in the video). I then rotated the whole mount clockwise while pulling up on it. It took a significant amount of force but I was eventually able to work it free and then pull it through the rats nest.

I still have to reinstall it!! I've heard that's even more fun... I started with the rear mount first as I've heard it's best to leave the other mounts for later since busted mounts have extra play in them.

[chewy999]

Engine mounts can cause creaking, especially under load like turning. It's less common than CV axles, but definitely possible. Replacing engine mounts isn't super hard, but it's definitely a job that requires some mechanical aptitude and the right tools.

[shrout1]

Ok! Got the job done yesterday. Getting the rear back in took me about another hour. You have to work it through the inflexible spider web of cables and hoses where the air box and cruise control unit were, then pass it back through the mounting bracket. I had to get the top of it under the throttle cable (I think it was the throttle cable) so that the long stud could be passed through the bracket.

You MUST hold the mount vertically and rotate it clockwise so that the leg with the long stud can be passed down through the mount bracket. It took a fair amount of pushing; having someone else with a pry bar to hold that bracket open a little might have helped. I let the motor mostly rest on the frame while doing this and had the front and driver's side mounts unbolted from the frame but still attached to the motor. Once I got the rear mount under the rear bracket and dropped into the subframe holes I just left it in place. I couldn't pass the center bolt through as it wasn't aligned; I figured I'd come back to it later.

I moved on and swapped the driver's side mount; the bolt that attaches the mount to the bracket (the big center bolt) can't be removed without moving the battery bracket out of the way. What a pain. Thankfully there were only 4 10mm bolts, all accessible from the top, holding that bracket in place. I used some penetrant and then a compact impact and got them all out. When I replaced the center bolt I reversed its orientation so that it can be removed without taking off the bracket in the future. (that will be at 500,000 miles )

After I swapped the driver's side mount and attached it to the engine bracket I bolted it back to the frame so that it would help align the rear bracket with the rear mount. I was able to easily pass the center bolt through the rear mount at this point.

Then I did the front mount; used an impact in the gap between the A/C condenser and the grill and a 19mm long handled box wrench to hold the nut. Takes some slight maneuvering to get the mount out, but it wasn't too bad. I replaced the mount and attached the center bolt but didn't bolt it into the subframe yet.

At this point I put my main floor jack under the oil pan of the engine with a block of wood but didn't tension it, just got it flush.

The passenger side mount has two "hanging" studs that pass through a bracket attached to the engine. There are two 14 mm nuts cinching the top motor mount plate and bottom motor bracket together. There's also a long 14mm bolt attaching the bracket and plate that can be removed from the top. After removing the top bolt I used a long extension and my high torque impact to remove the two bottom 14mm nuts. The engine settled down onto the jack ever so slightly.

When putting the new mount back in I attached it to the frame and cinched up the nuts on the hanging studs before replacing the top 14 mm bolt. If the bottom nuts aren't tight then the bracket and plate won't be aligned and you won't be able to get the bolt back in.

Then I went around the attached the rear and front mounts to the subframe, tying the hole engine back to the frame.

I cleaned the throttle body and then had a bunch of fun getting all the hoses and wires back in place! Backed the car out of the garage and the idle was drastically improved. Need to replace the valve cover / tensioner gaskets before my next test drive. Oil is still getting everywhere! She'll be back up to snuff in no time.