Welcome to GenVibe. You're an awesome dad to put your offspring into such a safe and reliable vehicle ... Congrats! I did the same six years ago for my son and paid a similar amount of $6500. My son paid the other half with his $$$. $13K for a two year old 2009 Vibe Gt at the time was a good deal. We now have THREE Vibes in our fleet (2003 Vibe GT not shown)
The Vibe GT's have 18" standard wheels on them and they ride OK. It's more about performance than comfort. Mileage difference will be very minimal and you probably won't notice any changes. Expect a slightly bumpier, stiffer ride. LEt us know what you do and keep us informed of any/all work. Thanks for joining and visit often
Also, the car is super loud over 60. To the point where you cant have a conversation from the back seat to the front seat. Is this common? The car needs tires and I'm hoping its the tires.
Welcome kntr!
Indeed tires are a major factor when it comes to noise. The struts are bolted directly, metal to metal, to the body. That transmits a lot of road noise. If it needs new tires anyway search http://www.tirereview.com/
and https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirera ... 13214443:s for quiet running tires. My Michelin defenders made a huge difference vs the worn out Goodyear RSA's
Last edited by vibrologist on Tue May 16, 2017 7:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Vibrologist
'05 Vibe
"It is important to know the difference between 'accurate' and 'precise' even if you are neither!"
weathertech must have made mats for the rear at some point, because i have one in my '10.
as for the wheels, less rubber is just going to make for a bumpier ride in what is already not the most comfortable riding car. there are plenty of owners here who have actually downsized their wheels in order to get more sidewall and a more comfortable ride. but if it's all about looks, get the bigger wheels.
i too have a set of michelin defenders and they were a major upgrade over the stock tires. i have about 50,000 on mine and will probably keep them around for another 30,000 or so (2 more years.) i'll probably get rid of them for rubber fatigue before the tread is actually spent.
Go for the one that looks the best to you. They are essentially non functional because the towers are so close to the fire wall, cowl and A- pillars anyway. In other words: it's plenty rigid around there.
Vibrologist
'05 Vibe
"It is important to know the difference between 'accurate' and 'precise' even if you are neither!"
vibrologist wrote:Go for the one that looks the best to you. They are essentially non functional because the towers are so close to the fire wall, cowl and A- pillars anyway. In other words: it's plenty rigid around there.
I posed the same question on the FB page and I was told that "it is mostly in your head."
Shock tower braces look cool and racy when you park the car and open the hood. There certainly are cars where they make a difference in normal driving. Those are cars of larger size with structural weakness up front. For example GM H bodies have a tower brace right out of the factory. Imagine a Buick Park Avenue needing a tower brace!
The Ford Thunderbird/ Mercury Cougar (MN12 platform) had a weakness up front as well and improved significantly with tower braces and additional bracing under the car. Some reported that adding the lower reinforcements put an end to squeaks and rattles in the instrument panel.
Unless a body has a structural weakness the bars are for looks only.
Vibrologist
'05 Vibe
"It is important to know the difference between 'accurate' and 'precise' even if you are neither!"