Volume/Tune Knob Reinforcement + Repair Insert POLL!

[BaseWhiteVibe]

Ladies and Gents, I received my new Volume/Tune knob in the mail today. After looking it over, reading about all the complaints and realizing that replacement knobs won't be available forever. I have decided to put my Engineering Degrees to good use and do the following

1. Utilize 3D CAD to create an CAD file of an insert that could be inserted into a new knob or be used to realign a broken knob making it usable again while stiffening up the entire knob
2. Use a 3D printer to make the first prototype to test out on my stereo

Now if the idea works anyone would be able to put this insert into their knob and slide it onto their volume or tune shaft. It would effectively stiffen up a new knob or repair a broken knob. Would this be something that you would buy?

The reason I am asking about it is that if I can get enough interest I will invest in making tooling and working with a company to make these inserts for me. I have attached a pole to see if people are interested

[ParknVibe]

I was your first voter.

The one problem I think you going to have is to match the color of the original. Plus to keep the light ring.
Second, If you can and do make one. We will need to have two for a match set.
Also you will need that special metal female ring.

However, I'm all for you learning how to do it.
But if you are to print this in 3D, won't it take a long time to "print" each one for
every one who wants one or(two)
BTW it does take a long time before the original does crack. It mainly cracks in high indoor car tempertures.
My thought is that the metal ring in the plastic expands then the plastic cracks around it.

A third idea I would like to try, (and I just bought 4 of these knobs) is to cut a slit at the very thin plastic (above the flat side of the metal ring) This will relief the tension and allow the plastic to move with the expanding metal. The hole within the ring is about 1/4 inch deep.

[BaseWhiteVibe]

I was your first voter.

The one problem I think you going to have is to match the color of the original. Plus to keep the light ring.
Second, If you can and do make one. We will need to have two for a match set.
Also you will need that special metal female ring.

However, I'm all for you learning how to do it.
But if you are to print this in 3D, won't it take a long time to "print" each one for
every one who wants one or(two)
BTW it does take a long time before the original does crack. It mainly cracks in high indoor car tempertures.
My thought is that the metal ring in the plastic expands then the plastic cracks around it.

A third idea I would like to try, (and I just bought 4 of these knobs) is to cut a slit at the very thin plastic (above the flat side of the metal ring) This will relief the tension and allow the plastic to move with the expanding metal. The hole within the ring is about 1/4 inch deep.

My goal would be to make the part go inside the actual knob so it wouldn't be noticeable, I would want the color to be clear so that the light won't have a distorted effect, though I would have to try it out on my radio first to make sure it doesn't look off

I would make it a set of two for each order

I would see if the existing ring could be pressed into the intermediary part, but hey all worth a try

Thank you for the ideas I will give these a try. It will take a bit of trial and error but well worth it I think

[vibenvy]

Although none of our radio knobs have failed yet *knocks on wood*, I would definitely be interested in these in case we have issues with one or more of our knobs down the road. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this thread to see what you come up with !

[BaseWhiteVibe]

With this set I hope to develop a set it and forget it system. Just pop it in your existing, broken or new knob and never worry about it again. I want it to work in all climates to accommodate for expansion and compression of the ring as stated earlier.

Since my Vibe came from Texas it has the broken knob. Since the new one came in the mail today I will be sure to CAD it up Monday and get the 3D printing going by Friday.

Keep those fingers crossed!

[BaseWhiteVibe]

Hey guys if possible could you please take pictures of your broken knobs? I need to root cause this to make sure I reinforce the insert in the ideal location

[ParknVibe]

Sorry I miss read your intent. You just want to somehow add a sleeve (made of plastic) around the post inside the knob. Am I correct? Just don't know how you do this for a broken one?

My first idea was to place a shrink tube sleeve around the post. Then I just thought about cuting a slot down that thin plastic (vaulted) hole above the flat edge of the metal ring..... Question is how to cut it with what tool?
Or even do both.

[BaseWhiteVibe]

Correct I want it to be an insert for the back side of the knob

As for if it is broken, maybe put the pieces in and glue it or press fit it.

I would really need someone to send me a few samples of broken ones (I will pay for shipping), and do a whole Root Cause and potentially conduct some testing on the part as well

[ParknVibe]

Correct I want it to be an insert for the back side of the knob

As for if it is broken, maybe put the pieces in and glue it or press fit it.

I would really need someone to send me a few samples of broken ones (I will pay for shipping), and do a whole Root Cause and potentially conduct some testing on the part as well

THere are pictures of a few broken knob from the past few years on this site. I can't recall the names but do a search.

[wonderdog]

Having just replaced my radio knobs (both!) I want to thank gmwrench and others for the advise. I thought about modifying them by cutting the flared base off but decided to give them one last chance. Its odd that the metal inner piece wasn't glued to the plastic shaft, seems to me that even if the plastic cracks as long as th glue holds the tuner should work normally, probably saved .0005cents not gluing. In any case for those doing this or thinking about it the SMALL bolts on the circuit board look to be 1/16" or the metric equivalent. I doubt most have a socket or wrench that size, I certainly don't. I tried needle nose pliers but some of the bolts are pretty tight and they slip risking the circuit board components. I finally used a very small set of vice-grips like 3" long that I bought on a whim some timeback and they worked pretty well but it is tight between the circuit board and housing so if you have small needle nose vice grips use them or, now that you know before you start get a 1/16" socket. Job is not that tough but I was/am nervous using makeshift tools around a circuit board. If I ever have to do this again I'll get the socket. I'm thinking this is unlikely and these were a manufacturing/production problem limited to some of us (bad week/day/ whatever) and I'm hoping the replacements never fail.

[BaseWhiteVibe]

I ended up buying two new knobs from different lots and sadly Delphi did some skimping. The CAD guy at work hasn't gotten to drawing up the insert yet (we have been a bit slammed at work lately) but the surrounding area around the ring without reinforcement is troubling. We will see, I don't think that replacing the knob on a somewhat regular basis is an issue..... but eventually those knobs will no longer be available. That is what worries me the most.

[ParknVibe]

Having just replaced my radio knobs (both!) I want to thank gmwrench and others for the advise. I thought about modifying them by cutting the flared base off but decided to give them one last chance. Its odd that the metal inner piece wasn't glued to the plastic shaft, seems to me that even if the plastic cracks as long as th glue holds the tuner should work normally, probably saved .0005cents not gluing. In any case for those doing this or thinking about it the SMALL bolts on the circuit board look to be 1/16" or the metric equivalent. I doubt most have a socket or wrench that size, I certainly don't. I tried needle nose pliers but some of the bolts are pretty tight and they slip risking the circuit board components. I finally used a very small set of vice-grips like 3" long that I bought on a whim some timeback and they worked pretty well but it is tight between the circuit board and housing so if you have small needle nose vice grips use them or, now that you know before you start get a 1/16" socket. Job is not that tough but I was/am nervous using makeshift tools around a circuit board. If I ever have to do this again I'll get the socket. I'm thinking this is unlikely and these were a manufacturing/production problem limited to some of us (bad week/day/ whatever) and I'm hoping the replacements never fail.

I just installed my new knob yesterday. Took some pictures, and learned that the new knob had to be pressed very hard on to the Volume control shaft in order to turn and a move after it was reassembled. Took me a while to understand what to do about that. That knob's flange would jam within the space against the housing's other fixed ring. So the fact that I had to press the knob down extra hard is yet another reason why the plastic cracked. Had I removed the knobs outter flange, I would of not known of the exact placement the knob had to be seated on the shaft.

I first did what I said that I would do and that was to cut a slit along the thin plastic sleeve above the that flat key of the ring. I learn that the best to make a slit was to heat an X-Acto knive blade on the stove burner and let it melt through the plastic. I first try to just hand cut the plastic by practing on the Turner' knob (old) which is still in tack.

AS for those 12 NUT head screws, I did luckly have a set of the metal mini screw drivers/Allen/and nut drivers for small fasteners....However the four of the outter nut screws that fasten the front display panel to the metal enclosuer .....I had to use a small adjustable wrench.
So you better have that small nut driver for the 12 on the circut board. I think it was an 1/8" nut size. The outter ones are somewhat bigger....3/16"

The broken knob cracked in two vertical lines one at the thinest (above the flat key) and the other about 3/8" from that point. The crack lenght is about 3/8 long. The original (in-tacked) turner's knob had two stress cracks forming but the knob comes off BUT leaves the metal ring on the shaft.

The broken knob still holds the plastic piece and can be glued back into place. But I still might try a shink tube sleeve around the plastic post.

For me this was also a lesson in how to remove the dash panel and the radio for installing a DVD/Navigate/radio

[Old Tele man]

FWIW, the same knobs are used in the Toyota Matrix radio as in our Pontiac Vibes, so the problem seems to be a Toyota design problem.

[ParknVibe]

How come no one is voting? I did.
Seems everyone lost interest with the volume noise.

[BaseWhiteVibe]

I am still pushing forward with it, just need the CAD guy to jump on it and make the file for me.

[ParknVibe]

I am still pushing forward with it, just need the CAD guy to jump on it and make the file for me.

I thought you were the CAD guy and inventer.

[BaseWhiteVibe]

I have sketched out the overall dimensions but I need my CAD guy to make a file that I can use on the 3D printer.

[ParknVibe]

I have sketched out the overall dimensions but I need my CAD guy to make a file that I can use on the 3D printer.

If just the hole of which fits on to the shaft were made a bit larger...that should fix it. The volume knob must be place down (and be pushed extra hard to get it to the exact depth in order function ...is the problem in my opinion. That causes the stress on the plastic.

[beemerphile1]

I had one break. Before installing two new ones I filled them with epoxy. I am pretty confident that I won't be replacing them again. I would have gone the insert route if it was available.

[BaseWhiteVibe]

Well Ladies and Gents, unfortunately the design would not work. The printed prototype part exceeded a reasonable price and I won't take the risk for something that may not work. I will listen to advice given and do the clear epoxy route.

[ParknVibe]

Well my new replacement knob I installed on Auguest 25, 2013...I found has "self-destructed" by itself.
It has only been less then three weeks for it to happen...Luckly I brought 4 knobs....
This time I will put a rubber sleeve around it to hold it together.
But I really want a rear camera/Navigation DVD radio/player....but I am not up to spend $1000

[ParknVibe]

Well my new replacement knob I installed on Auguest 25, 2013...I found has "self-destructed" by itself.
It has only been less then three weeks for it to happen...Luckly I brought 4 knobs....
This time I will put a rubber sleeve around it to hold it together.
But I really want a rear camera/Navigation DVD radio/player....but I am not up to spend $1000

Well I did what I said I would do as I said in the quote above....
I added a little amount of (special) glue (Loctite "Stik'N Seal"..extreme conditions)... to put the broken plastic stud back together and then put a shrink tube sleeve around the post and applied heat to shrink the tube around the newly broken knob. And then that was so easly, that I did the same with tuners knob as well and the first original broken volume knob.

I used a 3/8" dia. electrical shrink tube that I already had for a long time....I just a cut a 3/8" piece and put it around the pastic post.....then carefully heated it by holding it over the gas stove (using a large tweezer)

It would of shrank faster if I had a 5/16" dia. tube.

I feel that this fix will last a long time.

Update about the wheel caps:
My fix to hold the original wheel caps on the tire wheels is still holding by placing a ring of Velcro felt tape around the wheel hole ring.and then pushing in the cap into a smaller diameter hole....they are all still on for five years now.

[brhodea]

Hey guys, I've been affected by the Vol. knob failure and was curious if it pulls off like most other volume knobs from older cars? i can still get the volume up and down if I play with it enough and am hesitant to pull too hard as I don't want to lose control all together. best to go to toyota or GM for replacements?

thanks

[beemerphile1]

Nope, they don't pull off. The radio needs removal and dismantling to replace the knob. Some have devised other ways but I think the dismantle is the best.

Here is a thread giving step by step procedure:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34757&hilit

When I replaced the knobs on mine I filled the knob with epoxy, I believe it should be a permanent fix.

[brhodea]

Nope, they don't pull off. The radio needs removal and dismantling to replace the knob. Some have devised other ways but I think the dismantle is the best.

Here is a thread giving step by step procedure:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34757&hilit

When I replaced the knobs on mine I filled the knob with epoxy, I believe it should be a permanent fix.

thanks for the link, how has the epoxy fix held up so far?

[beemerphile1]

I intended for it to be a permanent fix - so far it is.