First belt replacement on a 2003

[ColonelPanic]

I need to get the belt replaced on an older than dirt but still low mileage Vibe. Built 10/02 but only has 86k on the clock.

The belt obviously appears aged, but it hasn't really made any noise that I've noticed until this morning when it was making a faint squeak when there was a load on the engine (in gear and holding on the brake.) It was also extra humid this morning, which always caused belt squeaks on my old car on mornings like this - maybe that was a factor.

Anyway, I plan on calling around for prices to get the belt replaced before it breaks and becomes a huge problem. Should I also consider getting the tensioner replaced? I know is a problematic item on these cars, but should I take an "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach? I'd prefer to do that but also don't feel like paying to replace the belt and then having to pay again to replace a failed tensioner later.

Thanks.

[Chiadog]

Put me in the "If it aint' broke" column. I would consider replacing the tensioner only if it had to be removed to install the new belt - and of course, It does not.
good luck,

[triz]

Why would you pay someone to replace the belt or the tensioner. One of the easiest things to replace.

[ColonelPanic]

Why would you pay someone to replace the belt or the tensioner. One of the easiest things to replace.

Because I have zero faith in my mechanical abilities anymore and I'm fairly certain I will do something to make it end badly. I watched a youtube video on it a minute ago, it really doesn't look bad but if I bet if I tried it the belt would probably be inside out and routed completely backwards.

Aside from an oil change, there's not much I really have the confidence to do myself anymore. Beer might help, but still.

[Derf]

I would at least replace the belt. Since it appears the old one is still in good condition, I would put the old belt in the new belt sleeve (since it will have the part number, which is likely rubbed off the old belt) and put it under the hatch floor with the jack stand jumper cables etc. as a backup.

[ColonelPanic]

Well, I was giving everything a good look today as I usually do every couple of weeks. Still haven't done anything with the belt yet.

I noticed the tensioner looked a little oily on the top hydraulic portion of it.


Hmm... I see some oil on the side of the engine too. Looked behind it and what'dya know...


YAY, is this the legendary POS 1ZZ timing chain tensioner leak?

So is the belt tensioner bad too, or is the oil leaking out of the timing chain tensioner somehow collecting on it?

[triz]

Yeah that's the 1zz chain tensioner leak. Pretty cheap to fix and pretty simple. You can try AKARAFA on Spyderchat he can get you the part. Tell him Triz sent you.

The oil I am hoping for you is just some that has gone around the side. It's happened to my 1zz. Your belt tensioner should be okay.

I believe you may be able to get the o-ring for the chain tensioner by itself but don't quote me on that. I changed the whole part since it was not to expensive.

[Salsa Guy]

Why would you pay someone to replace the belt or the tensioner. One of the easiest things to replace.

You have never changed one this car before have you? It requires taking off a motor mount, jacking up the engine, maybe even removing the front tire and the inner fender well. I think there are few other items I'm missing.

[triz]

From the pics and my recollection of a Matrix...all he has to is loosen the belt tensioner at the top, loosen the 10mm bolts on the chain tensioner and replace. A ratcheting wrench is all you need there if you can fit a 1/4 drive 10mm socket. don't know why you loosen the motor mount. Its tight and iirc its close to the firewall on your car but totally doable. Maybe its been that long?

[canadave]

I'm pretty sure Salsa Guy was kidding At least I hope so!

[ColonelPanic]

I watched a Youtube video that clearly showed the need for loosening up the motor mount and jacking the engine up slightly to get the long center bolt out of the belt tensioner. Pretty sure there are stories here of the bolt being broken off in the engine from folks skipping this step... Maybe it can be done, I don't know -- just seems like with as long as that bolt is, it would be a little frustrating to get out if the engine wasn't lifted.

[canadave]

wow...in that case, I stand corrected!

[shaeet]

The tensioner for the belt isn't hydraulic, its a hardcore spring. Replacing the tensioner would be a bit of a pain but if its squealing then you gotta. If it isn't, i wouldn't bother personally.

Replacing the belt itself isnt overly hard, just look up a diagram at how its supposed to be routed. I got my new belt & was like "holy crap this thing is long" and couldn't figure out how it went on until googling a workshop manual diagram. Also be warned that using a open-ended wrench on the tensioner to pull it back far enough to slip the belt on requires 2 people. Doing it by yourself would be a damn feat in itself. Its pretty hard to push the (removed) back without a long wrench too so make sure you got the right tools.

IMO GATES belts are the way to go, or goodyear gatorbacks. I've had bad experiences with DAYCO's stretching or squealing not long after buying them. And unfortunately all of the big auto stores (AAP, autozone) carry those exclusively. I ordered my GATES on amazon & it came in 1 day for like 12 bux.

As for that leaking tensioner. Having dealt with re-doing a timing chain on my 2ZZ, i wouldn't even bother fixing that issue. If the leak is just a slight oil leak i'd leave it. Removing it could cause your chain to skip a tooth & if that happens you are completely screwed & will have to remove the entire side engine cover which requires removing the motor mount and is a nightmare of a job. Re-seating the tensioner with a new O-ring will prevent the leak but do you really want the headache?

[ColonelPanic]

Thanks for the tip on the Daycos. I've noticed that's all the chains carry and wasn't sure about them. I always preferred OEM or Gates belts, and the Gatorback seems to be well liked around here.

For the chain tensioner, maybe it's time to switch over to Maxlife and let its seal conditioners attempt to work on it a little. It's very minor at the moment.