Rotor removal on an 07

[blue_can]

Seems to be stuck so after a bit of whacking and also trying a puller which has not worked I looked closely and it looks like it is being held down by the axle nut. Is this really the case and do I have to remove the nut to get the rotor off or is it an illusion. Never seen that arrangement before and the factory manual makes no mention of it so I thought I would ask here and see if anyone knows.

[joatmon]

The rotor is a flat disk that goes on the outside, you do NOT need to remove the axle nut. It is probably so rusted on you can't see the seam. If you are replacing it just wail on it really hard. If you want to reuse it then try some penetrating oil and let it soak. You can get a good idea of where the rotor edge is by looking at pictures of replacement rotors at sites like auto zone.com or advanceautoparts.com

[blue_can]

Okay thanks will try again tomorrow with the puller and hammer/penetrating oil - did not want to crank the puller too far in case it was secured by the axle nut. I have new rotors for both sides so I don't care if I wreck the old ones. Mind you the passenger side which is the one I tried first did not budge after a few turns on the puller so I'm guessing it is really rusted on. The factory ones don't seem to have the threaded bolt holes to use for forcing out the rotor which is annoying although I suppose I could drill and tap some new holes although that's extra work.

[Chiadog]

youtube to the rescue! wear eye protection.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osyj-LD5vJs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[blue_can]

Hmmm...interesting video. I will try that technique by using the puller to apply tension and then try the hammer to break it off the hub.

[Chiadog]

Hmmm...interesting video. I will try that technique by using the puller to apply tension and then try the hammer to break it off the hub.

I'm guessing the puller will not work as it puts pressure equally around the disc. The technique in the video works by applying pressure to only one side of the disc, thereby using mechanical advantage to break one edge of the bond between disc and hub.

[blue_can]

Well okay it came off this morning with the use of the puller only - I think using the puller yesterday along with the penetrating oil overnight must have loosened it enough to break it today. I forgot to put on the lug nuts as per the puller instructions and the rotor pretty much flew off the hub and I caught it before it fell off. Never seen anything flying off like that.

This is the puller I bought for the job based on the large number of good reviews - http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6980-Heavy-Br ... roduct_top" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for the technique in the video - I cannot imagine putting pressure on one side when trying to pull off something is a good idea. I think the only reason it is that way is due to the design of the bracket. I saw a different video where the guy uses this technique and repeats at regular intervals by rotating the hub and eventually it popped off.

I one was removing a bearing from an electric polisher on my 20 ton press and did not realize it had got cocked to the side. Needless to say the bearing broke before it came out. I'm now very careful about applying even pressure around the thing being pulled during a pressing/pulling process.

[Chiadog]

Congrats on your success! I am surprised to see stuck rotors on such a newish car. Were these original rotors? Do you live in the Northern (salt) region? Maybe a light coat of anti-seize would be a good idea at the new rotor/hub joint?

[blue_can]

Yes it is very odd also that I live in San Diego where corrosion is not really an issue and the undercarriage of most cars looks like new many years later. On my other car I have replaced the rotors a few times and they just slide out.

Yes these are the original rotors and I'm the only owner from new so the car has been in SD all the time. About 53K miles now and the pads were almost completely worn out but I also noticed the driver side rotor was scored so I decided to replace pads and rotors on both sides (also slight shimmy during hard braking).

The other side went a bit quicker as I was prepared for a stuck rotor so I sprayed the hub area with PB blaster and let it soak while I removed the pads and the rest of the stuff so when I got the rotor I put the puller on and cranked. It let go with quite a bang but this time I had two lug nuts on so it did not fly off. I really have not seen much corrosion on the rotors and rotor/hub joint so I'm not sure why it was so frozen on there. I have used some anti-sieze compound before installing the new rotors.

Anyway jobs now complete and the brakes are working nicely. Thanks for helping out.