EDIT: If the description ins't clear enough, I'm referring to the panel in the second slot shown below.
seems like a lot, and the price has probably gone up since then. That's the GM part number, maybe they are cheaper from Toyota. Probably cheaper (or free) if you can find a wrecked Vibe at a junkyardragingfish wrote:UPDATE Got the part in today! Turns out it's the right one! So, if you're looking for extra blank plates for the left of the steering wheel, or to replace the little coin slots under the e-brake, the part you need is:88970565 COVER $2.75
I think a trip to Pull-A-Part is in order, especially with the ever-growing shopping list I have! I figured if I could even find a Vibe/Matrix that it would be stripped of anything usable by other scavengers, luckily the car scene is mostly 240's and Civic's. I feel almost like the Lone Vibe Ranger out here. Nonetheless, thank you for the insight, as well as the picture!ColonelPanic wrote:Hmm, that looks familiar.
Toyota has been using the same blank panels for a very, very long time in many different models. It should be easy to find one in a junkyard for sure. I had ordered some extra blanks at one point, too bad it was 2005-ish so I don't recall much about where I got them or how much they were.
In my pic there, I installed a genuine Toyota fog light switch for controlling under-dash LED's. If you just need a switch, you could always get one of those and save the panel for if/when you want to revert to stock. I think the part number is 00550-35976 according to the googles. Certainly much more expensive than just getting a generic switch and installing it into the blank though...
I'm a sucker for switches, buttons and knobs. After installing an aftermarket Single DIN HU, I've considered doing away with the little storage compartment underneath the unit and MacGyver-ing a board for more switches. Speaking of lights and switches, alongside your username, how have you not added a mock Anamorphic Equalizer to your Vibe!?KITT222 wrote:Thank goodness I don't have more open panels, or I'd be tempted to add more switches and lights!
Should totally add more inside the little drawer beneath them.KITT222 wrote:Thank goodness I don't have more open panels, or I'd be tempted to add more switches and lights!
Speaking of that compartment, do you guys know of any way to make the door hold closed better? On mine (the flip-open style, without release button) whatever kind of catch they use is weak, and the door practically wants to pop open on its own.lannvouivre wrote:Should totally add more inside the little drawer beneath them.KITT222 wrote:Thank goodness I don't have more open panels, or I'd be tempted to add more switches and lights!
I have to admit that mine pops open often going over speedbumps. The only thing I can personally suggest is only storing light plastic things, like clips and such, in it. I believe someone had a fix for it on the forums somewhere, but it may have been for 2nd-gen vehicles.LeaveMyHatOn wrote:Speaking of that compartment, do you guys know of any way to make the door hold closed better? On mine (the flip-open style, without release button) whatever kind of catch they use is weak, and the door practically wants to pop open on its own.
I have the same problem. I'll probably just epoxy a couple magnet strips in and see if that'll take care of it.lannvouivre wrote:I have to admit that mine pops open often going over speedbumps. The only thing I can personally suggest is only storing light plastic things, like clips and such, in it. I believe someone had a fix for it on the forums somewhere, but it may have been for 2nd-gen vehicles.
Remove the cubby, and you'll find a little metal tab in the top of the hole. Bend it towards the driver, and it holds the cubby closed a LOT better.LeaveMyHatOn wrote: Speaking of that compartment, do you guys know of any way to make the door hold closed better? On mine (the flip-open style, without release button) whatever kind of catch they use is weak, and the door practically wants to pop open on its own.