2009 Vibe remote start install

[euphoric85]

Hey all,

I'm planning on installing a Viper keyless entry/remote start in my gf's Vibe for Christmas, but I have a question I'm having a hard time finding the answer to: Do I need to also install any type of bypass?

I've looked around the forums and found that I need to check her glovebox for production code "BAE" to confirm whether or not it has the immobilizer. I haven't checked the sticker yet, but assuming that it does NOT have the immobilizer, is there a need for a bypass still? From what I've seen, it seems that there may be two different bypass modules; one for the immobilizer and one for the door locks.. Is that correct?

If anyone is intimately familiar, the system I'm planning on buying is the Viper 4103XV. I'm good for the wiring work, I just need to find out what all I need for the install.

Thanks!!

[beemerphile1]

USA or Canada?

Only Canadian Vibes have immobilizers. USA vibes do not in spite of what the accessory manufacturers claim. Here is some reading for you.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=29835&hilit=remote

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=35325&hilit=remote

[tpollauf]

Let us know if/when you are successful at this installation and how difficult it was. Junior's Vibe may be getting one this winter and I'll research which brands/makes to get. It would likely be a Christmas break father/son project. Those are a lot of fun !!!

[beemerphile1]

I have a Audiovox Prestige APS57C. Been working fine for two years now.

I can't tell anything about installation, I had it done. For a total cost of parts and labor of under $150 it wasn't worth my time.

I eliminated the huge factory key with the built in remote. I had a plain key cut and use the Prestige remote for door locks and everything. I got tired of being stabbed by the factory key in my pocket.

[euphoric85]

I'm also annoyed by the ginormous fob-integrated factory key- if I can get this bad boy installed I'll be getting a plain key cut as well.

I'm in the middle of the install as we speak, believing that I don't need a bypass. I'm hoping somebody may be able to help with a few wires I'm having trouble with-

I've seen 2 different wiring diagrams, one from the12volt and one from directech, and there's disagreement between the two. Does the 09 Vibe have 2 starter wires and/or 2 ignition wires? Also the diagrams say the ACC wire is a gray one at the ignition harness- however there are 2 different gray wires right next to eachother.

For the record, I went with the Viper 4103XL with no bypass... Other than this ambiguity with the wiring diagrams so far it's been pretty straightforward- only about 10 wires to connect

Any input? Thanks y'all!

[tpollauf]

This might help. Assuming that the Vibe and Matrix are identical from a wiring harness standpoint. Ignition 1 = Brown (+) @ ign switch - white 8-pin plug, pin6. Ignition 2 = Green (+) @ ign switch - white 8-pin plug, pin 4. As far as the two starter wires I'd say that they do exist and that you must use them both in order for the remote starter to work. Your ACC/heater blower wire = Gray (+), @ign switch - white 8-pin plug pin 3. In fact, on this same white 8-pin plug, the following points need to be used: Black wire pin 8 = starter for the 1.8l engine, White wire pin 1 = starter wire for the 2.4 engine only. Hope this helps. take close-up pics of your connections. I'll likely be doing this same mod to my son's 2009 Vibe GT during his Christmas break next month!

[gimmegimme]

I've seen 2 different wiring diagrams, one from the12volt and one from directech, and there's disagreement between the two. Does the 09 Vibe have 2 starter wires and/or 2 ignition wires? Also the diagrams say the ACC wire is a gray one at the ignition harness- however there are 2 different gray wires right next to eachother.

Not sure which Vibe you have, but for my 09 GT, there are two starter wires and two ignition wires. There are two thin grey wires, but if you follow them to the connector, they should both go to the same hole and be electrically connected there. I didn't have to hook up the ACC wire to the alarm because the blower ran without it.

I can confirm the colours and pins mentioned by tpollauf.

[euphoric85]

Yea I connected the ACC wire of the remote start to both of those thin grey wires, since they were connected to the same pin.

I have the Starter wire from the remote start connected to the black wire in the ignition; so from what y'all are saying, the 2nd starter wire is only in the GT? Mine's an 09 Base. Looks like I'll have to revisit the ignition wire connections. Other than that, I just have the parking light wire & hoodpin switch left to do, and mounting the antenna- any input on that? In my Chevy Blazer, it had an Avital system which had a smaller antenna that fit fine on the inside of the front windshield, but this guy has a much longer one that would look awkward anywhere other than the outside of the back window methinks. Running that cleanly I'm sure will be sooo much fun!

Last question, the diagrams I have list the (+) parking light wire as a green one in the drivers kick panel, but there are several green wires coming from several different connectors down there.. any clue which one it would be? I know there's a (-) wire in the steering column as well, but it appears as though this unit doesn't have a jumper to change the parking light polarity.

Thanks guys for all your help! It's mucho appreciated

[tpollauf]

Last question, the diagrams I have list the (+) parking light wire as a green one in the drivers kick panel, but there are several green wires coming from several different connectors down there.. any clue which one it would be?

Try this : Green (+) @ fusebox under the dash, pin 29 on the White 30 pin plug (A)

Not sure on where/how to run the antenna. Good luck

[gimmegimme]

Here's how I mounted my antenna (it's the thing on the top left).

[euphoric85]

Ok guys.. so I got the system installed finally.. Only issues really were a few wires that were hard to get to with a soldering iron, such as the brake light wire. That area around the driver's side floorboard is NOT giant friendly! Lol

I had to tweak some things here and there but I'm banging my head against the wall with one last issue.. The remote start works fine, as does the lock button, but the unlock button is spotty. The doors won't unlock unless the car is remote started first, or shortly after the car's been turned off. If the car has sat for a while and I just want to run to the car to grab something, the doors wont unlock unless I remote start the car first. But Lock works every/any time. (removed)?? I've of course double-checked my connections and made sure they were solid, all soldered.

Initially I used the Alarm Disarm and Alarm Re-arm wires for the lock/unlock, even though there's no immobilizer installed.. The problem with that is that when the remote start activated it sent a pulse to the Disarm wire, causing the car to unlock every time I remote started it. So I disconnected those and used the Door Lock and Door Unlock wires instead, which fixed that issue, but has now caused this one..

Anyone have any ideas?

[euphoric85]

Here's how I mounted my antenna (it's the thing on the top left).

Good call gimme, mine was a smaller module with 4" stiff wire antenna coming out of it- I tucked it sideways right about where yours is and it's just small enough that the headliner hides it from view really well. Thanks!

[gimmegimme]

Do you know which wires you tapped for lock and unlock? I had a similar issue when I disarmed the alarm and gave the normal key to the service guy. When I got the car back and tried to unlock with my alarm remote, it would chirp and flash, but didn't unlock. I had used the unlock wire from the switch in the driver's door and apparently, that doesn't work if the car has been locked with the remote. I switched to use the unlock wire from the key switch and that fixed things up.

Factory Alarm Disarm pink (double pulse) - driver kick, white 18 pin plug, pin 6

[euphoric85]

Do you know which wires you tapped for lock and unlock? I had a similar issue when I disarmed the alarm and gave the normal key to the service guy. When I got the car back and tried to unlock with my alarm remote, it would chirp and flash, but didn't unlock. I had used the unlock wire from the switch in the driver's door and apparently, that doesn't work if the car has been locked with the remote. I switched to use the unlock wire from the key switch and that fixed things up.

Factory Alarm Disarm pink (double pulse) - driver kick, white 18 pin plug, pin 6

Right now I'm using these:

Power Lock purple - driver kick, white 18 pin plug, pin 16
Power Unlock beige - driver kick, white 18 pin plug, pin 15

I was previously using the Alarm Disarm one you mentioned, and that's what was causing the doors to unlock every time the car was remote started. But yes I'm having the exact same problem- it will chirp and flash but not unlock

[gimmegimme]

Those two wires you're using are for the lock/unlock switch in the driver's door, so the lock shouldn't disable the unlock side of the switch.

Are you still using the factory remote? Try unlocking with the factory remote, then stop using it. Does that help?

EDIT: I just looked up the installation manual for the Viper 4103XV. Are you using the alarm arm/disarm wires on the alarm (light green/black, green/white)? Or the door lock/unlock wires (blue, green)? The door lock/unlock wires shouldn't unlock the door when you remote start.

[euphoric85]

Those two wires you're using are for the lock/unlock switch in the driver's door, so the lock shouldn't disable the unlock side of the switch.

Are you still using the factory remote? Try unlocking with the factory remote, then stop using it. Does that help?

EDIT: I just looked up the installation manual for the Viper 4103XV. Are you using the alarm arm/disarm wires on the alarm (light green/black, green/white)? Or the door lock/unlock wires (blue, green)? The door lock/unlock wires shouldn't unlock the door when you remote start.

Sorry for the confusion.. I was previously using the alarm arm/disarm wires, which were unlocking the doors when I remote started. So I disconnected those wires and used the door lock/unlock wires instead. So now, it no longer unlocks while remote starting, but when trying to unlock a lot of the time it just chirps and blinks like you mentioned. I'll try unlocking with the factory remote later this afternoon and see if that fixes it. That would be a wonderfully simple fix!!

I've put the factory fob away so that it never gets used, since I know that can confuse the car and cause random issues (like this) to use both. Locking very well might have been the last thing I did with the factory fob though.

[beemerphile1]

...when trying to unlock a lot of the time it just chirps and blinks...

Chirps? How did you get it to chirp? Mine has always been silent.

[euphoric85]

...when trying to unlock a lot of the time it just chirps and blinks...

Chirps? How did you get it to chirp? Mine has always been silent.

There is a horn output wire on the remote start that you connect to the horn wire in the ignition harness, then (with DEI systems anyway) you have to enable and program that function with the programming button. You can customize how long the horn honks and how many times.. I have mine set up with the shortest duration honk (2ms I think), and so that it honks once on Lock and twice on Unlock.. The honks and the parking light flashes are synchronized perfectly

[euphoric85]

tried unlocking with the factory fob.. Still a no go

its weird that once the remote start is activated (and shortly afterwards) it works fine.. And if I remember correctly, when I had the alarm disarm/rearm wires hooked up, the lock and unlock function always worked fine.

what if I hook the lock/unlock wires from the remote start to the disarm/rearm wires in the car? The polarities are all the same, and that shouldn't unlock the car during remote start

[gimmegimme]

what if I hook the lock/unlock wires from the remote start to the disarm/rearm wires in the car? The polarities are all the same, and that shouldn't unlock the car during remote start

That was exactly what I was going to suggest.