Well I finally got that belt tensioner changed out last night. I know there are several write ups on how to do this, but I thought I would throw some tips out there for anyone who needs to do this.Tools:19mm Open/Box Wrench - Get a long one if you can. Barring that, use double wrench method or a pipe to get extra leverage. Use: Getting slack in the belt tensioner.17mm 6-Point Box End Wrench or Line Wrench - Again, something long would be great hear for breaking torque. Utilize double wrench method or pipe if you don't have something long. Try to avoid using a 12-point box end wrench here when breaking torque on the bolt, the chance of stripping it is pretty good. Also useful for re-torquing the bolt when reassembling. Use: Breaking torque/re-torquing on large lower bolt.17mm GearWrench - A ratchet really won't fit here. Your best bet is a ratcheting box end wrench, or else you will end up making very small turns for a very long time (like I did). Lacking this, a 12-point box end will work. Use: Removing/reinstalling large lower bolt12mm 6-Point Box End Wrench or Line Wrench - There is more space here, and its higher up, so a long wrench or double wrench may not be necessary for you to break torque on the nut. Use: Breaking torque/re-torquing upper rear nut.12mm GearWrench - Although access to this nut is much better than the lower bolt, there is still not enough room to fit a ratchet in there. Use a ratcheting wrench, or go really slow with a standard wrench (I had a ratcheting wrench for this part). Use: Removing/reinstalling upper rear nut.14mm 6-Point Socket/12in Extension/Breaker Bar/Ratchet - You will need to break torque on the side engine mount bolts near the tensioner. There are two bolts in the chassis on the outside of the mount. The break loose pretty easy and there is plenty of room for a ratchet if you use the extension. Use: Break torque/re-torquing, removing/reinstalling engine mount bolts.10mm Socket/Ratchet/Extension - Use: Remove the nuts holding on the plastic engine cover.7in x 7in x 1/2in Piece of Wood (this is what I had, any square, flat piece of wood will do) - Use: Put between the oil pan and the jack pad to prevent damage to oil pan.Floor Jack - You will need to raise the engine to get clearance for the large lower bolt. Just put this under the oil pan, put the piece of wood on the jack pad, and slowly raise the engine until you have enough clearance to get the bolt all the way out. You don't need to lift the tires off the ground or anything, we are just looking for a little clearance. Use: Raising the engine. Shop Light - Good lighting in the engine bay will make this job a lot easier. Easiest way to reduce swearing and tool throwing by at least 50%. Use: Lighting the engine bay.Gloves (Optional) - I used a combination of latex gloves and mechanics gloves. This will help prevent you from banging up your hand as bad, and if should keep you a little cleaner. Even with gloves, I banged up my hands pretty good. Magnet - Just in case.Case of Your Preferred Drink - Sometimes you just need a break! Best to have the break with a cold drink.That is really all I have. Its actually a pretty straight forward job. As long as you are willing to take your time, it won't be terribly hard. For me, the worst part was actually putting the belt back on when it was all done. And even that wasn't too bad. Hope this helps someone!
My 08 has 3 engine mount bolts. I remember reading this, and only removed 2 bolts...and couldn't figure out why the chassis was going up along with the engine when I worked the jack. There's a third bolt up a little higher than the obvious two, on the wheel well. I also found one of those long springy grabby things useful when re-aligning the belt on the main engine pulley.
I only want to change my serpentine belt and want to ask. do you know what size of wrench I should use to loose the tensioner screw?
I google and find some webpage said 15mm, I bought one but find it is too small. Is it 17mm or 19mm?