Someone asked me to do a tech article on swapping out the fuel pump on a 04 Vibe. Ordered up all the parts and did the work today. Very easy. Took maybe 2 hrs total. What you'll need:Parts(All prices Rock Auto pricing 6/09)New Fuel Pump(GM p/n 88972523)($63)New Fuel Filter(GM p/n 88969125)($32)New Pickup Screen. (88972522 or 88974893)($32 and $11 respectively)A note on the pickup screen. The factory one on a 2WD vibe is L shaped(88972522) and the AWD one is 88974893. I looked around and near as I can tell, all the box store parts stores(Autozone, Adv Auto) only sell the AWD version. Looking in the tank, I have NO idea why they are different. The 2WD that my wife has just has a big square box around the pickup. Either one would work. I'd recommend the square one as the L shaped one is 3X as expensive. I used the L shaped one as I had bought both. See pic later in this thread.Other parts you may want to get are a new gasket for the sending unit. I did not replace it and it appears to not be leaking. I don't have the p/n for it. Also, there's a permanent retainer on the pickup screen that I was able to reuse...but it could potentially be replaced, although I reused it surprisingly well.Attached you'll find a copy of the factory service manual reference for doing this procedure. It was very helpful. Sorry if its not legal to post. I got it from a thread on here somewhere I believe.To pull the unit out of the tank...1) Remove the 2 bolts from the front of the passenger side rear seat. The bottom of the seat will then fold up.2) Remove the stick on cover over the wiring that protects it from errant hands and coat hangers getting pushed under the seat.3) Remove the access panel. Its just stuck to it with tape 'stuff'. Just pries off with your fingers.4) You'll have to remove the grommet from the cover as you remove the cover. You can pop it back in later. 5) Disconnect the 2 wiring connectors. One for the pump/fuel gauge, the other for the EVAP sensor. The fuel pump connector is a bit tricky. You squeeze the tab down HARD and you'll probably feel it 'snap' as it clears the tang on the mating part. It then pulls off easy enough.6) Start the car to bleed off the pressure in the supply line.7) Remove the yellow clips and remove the EVAP sensor and the return line. Careful, even though pressure was bled out, a significant amount of fuel ran out of the line. I would have a small butterdish or cup handy to quickly put the end of the line in to caputre the fuel. 8) Remove the pressure line. This quick connect was the hardest part. You squeeze the tangs together HARD and then twist and pull it off. The part your squeezing comes off WITH the quick connect. Other GM vehicles, those pieces you are sqeezing stay with the pump end.9) After the pressure connector is off...you need to remove the 8 bolts/screws that hold the retaining ring on. They have a phillips head, but the outside is a hex. I'd recommend using the hex. Mine came off relatively easy. I used a nut driver type screwdriver tool. I don't know what the technical term is. I could break them loose with my hand...a ratchet might be needed on some. I also hosed them down with WD40 right as I was starting the project to help them along. 10) After the retaining line is loose, you can remove the ring. Just feed it over the pressure nipple sticking off. 11) Pull the assy out of the tank. Careful as you gingerly pull it out. The pickup screen and the fuel level gauge need gingerly fed out of the tank. Have an old tshirt or something handy to put it over as you draw it out of the car. I held it above the opening in the tank while things drained. My lovely wife made sure the tank was full for me...even though I had specified empty. To change the pump...This part didn't work as well as a step by step...more paragraph by paragraph.This whole thing just snaps together when you get it out of the tank. Have a flat screwdriver handy. Removing the fuel gauge senderThe first thing you should probably do is remove the fuel gauge sending unit. It easy to remove. Look behind it, there's a tab you push down, then just slide the whole circuit board part about a quarter inch(toward the top of the pump I believe) and it just comes off. It has kind of a key arrangement. See the pic later. There's also a wire connector underneath the top of the pump assy that needs disconnected to get the sending unit free of the filter/pump assy. Lay it aside for now.Pull the cover off the bottom of the pump/pickup screen.The bottom of the pump has a cover over it. It covers the regulator assy and the bottom of the pump. Work the snaps to get this piece off. Once thats off, grab the fuel pressure regulator and give it a stiff pull. It should come out. You'll also need to pull the permanet retainer off the pickup screen to reuse it if you didn't buy a new one(I didn't buy a new one). I used a small flat screwdriver to pry it off. You can then unplug the connector in the top of the pump and pull the pump out, although looking back on it, I don't think you need to remove the pump as it just slides inside the filter. Pulling the top off the pump assyThen work the top off the pump assy. Once again, its just snaps. Watch for wire connectors and be gentle with it. It comes off easy enough. There's a o-ring connection in this piece that goes to the filter. I believe this is the connector to the fuel return. I believe that's it for getting the pieces apart. At this point, you're re-assembling. Re-assembly...The first thing to do is to put the new strainer on the pump. Push it together, alighing the stud on the bottom of the new pump. Take the new or old permanent retainer on it. I used a socket and a hammer to gently tap it into place. This all worked very well, to my suprise. See pic below.The pump/strainer goes into the filter. Lube the o-ring up with some gas. Gently push the o-ring into the bore. The plug can get out of line and may catch on a piece of the filter. Just rotate it and there's an opening the plug will slip through. You'll feel it bottom out. Don't forget to put the regulator assy back into the new filter. There is a rubber cap that goes over the bottom of the pump. Don't forget that either. Then push the cap on and snap the clips in place again. There is a nipple on that rubber cap that goes in a hole in the plastic cap on the unit. It took me a couple times to get that lined up. Make sure all the snaps are engaged.Now we move onto the top half of the unit. Not much to this one. Lube any new o-rings up with fuel. Slip the parts together...and as you're doing that, make the wire connection for the pump. Genly snap it together. If it doesn't snap together easy(at least after all o-rings are engaged), step back pull it apart, look it over, and be sure no wires are getting pinched, and go at it again. It took me a couple times. Next up is the gauge sender. It just slides back into place. Very easy. At that point, its time to take one last look, be sure all pieces that look like they need transfered over are. Look at the old filter and pump, anything laying around. Spare parts are bad here, mmmmkay?Take a minute to clean the gasket or install the new one. Go back to the car and be sure to wipe down the sealing surface(rib just inside the bolting ring). I also hosed the top of the pump unit down with brake cleaner to get the dirt off and clean the o-ring sealing surfaces. Be sure all the brake clean is dumped out before heading to the car. I think at this point, saying 'put back together the opposite of taking it apart' is sufficient. Few brain dumps of hints...Have car windows open, have it sitting outside for plenty of airflow. Careful not to dump gas on the carpet as you pull it apart. I also went as far as setting up a small table outside the garage to swap out the parts. Worked really well.The next few replies will be pics of the process.
Attached files Fuel-Pump-R-R.pdf (145.8 KB)