If it is so low that it will not cycle the compressor on, you need to jumper the low pressure switch like how it says in the instructions sieg01 posted. That forces the compressor to run and create a vacuum to pull the additional refrigerant into the system.silverbullet wrote:Little thread jack for a question.... If it is low causing the compressor not to come on. How do you fill it? Dont you need to run the air and it pulls in the refregirant. x
The end of the pulley should be turning when the A/C clutch is engaged. The end is directly connected to the internals of the compressor. The belt just freewheels on the pulley until the clutch engages and "locks" the belt part of the pulley to the end part of the pulley. My guess is the increased RPMs are just a result of you bypassing the switch. I know the radiator cooling fan usually comes on when you bypass it also.sieg01 wrote:I was going to bring it in to have it looked at, but I looked at it a little more first.
How can you tell if the compressor clutch is engaging? I hear the RPMs rev up when I touch the pin 1 and 4 together. But one of my co-workers looked at it and he questioned... should the endcap (?) of the compressor be turning when the compressor clutch engages (when I short the pins). I noticed that it doesn't seem to be moving ever. If that is the compressor clutch that isn't working? What is making the engine rev a little higher?
The end of the pulley should be able to turn with the belt on and the car off, if the compressor is OK. Only the ribbed part of the pulley is held in place by a stationary belt. So if you can't move the end, then the compressor is most likely locked up. I would remove the belt and make sure the compressor will not move at all.sieg01 wrote:Well I finally got around to working on it again.
I tried to move the clutch and I can't get it to move at all. Should it be able to move with the belt on?
I am getting 12V at the compressor when it is bypassed.
So that probably means I need a new compressor?
You can add some dye to the system, and then it would show you where it is leaking. Probably an "O" ring that has dried up and letting it leak past it.silverbullet wrote:i might just have to bring this in to the shop but are there any suggestions if jumping the low pressure switch wont get the clutch to engage? the clutch is not seized and the compressor is only just over a year old. i had the freon filled and it worked for two weeks and now the compressor wont come on just like before when it was low. so i assume i must have a small leak, i was just hoping to fill it myself to get by for another couple weeks until i can have the shop look at it again. also is there a good way to check for leaks without buying any special tools? thanks
sieg01 wrote:Thinking I'm going to order a new low pressure switch. Does anyone know if I have to vac down the system to replace that? Or is there a valve on it? Looks like amazon has a fairly cheap one for $70.
Also when I replaced my compressor, I didn't replace the receiver/drier, I saw people recommended that. Should I do that now?