Howdy folks.
I'm a newbie here, and I drive an '03 Vibe GT. White in color, she's just what I was looking for when she came my way. It was totally like fate. What I was wondering is this; how much of a job is it to change a rear wheel bearing? I had a front one replaced recently, and now a rear one is howling. I'm comfortable with general wrenchery (I think I just made up a word.), but need to know if any special tools are required. Is it pressed in?
If someone has a manual that could scan a couple of pages for me, I'd be really grateful.
Thanks
DanR
Rear wheel bearing
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CharlesinGA
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:40 pm
- Location: Southside of Atlanta 50 miles or so.
Re: Rear wheel bearing
I have never suffered a cartridge type wheel bearing failure on a car before. Ran a '99 Plymouth Breeze to 234K mi on original bearings, front and back. That being said, I think I have one going out up front, as I'm hearing a distinct thump... thump noise on smooth roads, this '04 has just under 60K mi on it. Tore the right front partially apart on the lift, found nothing, its gotta get worse for me to located it.
One thing I have found is that the rotors and drums are prone to rusting to the hubs. Rotor last night was stuck and took prybars and a dead blow to break it loose and slide it off the hub. I cleaned the inside of the rotor and the shoulder of the hub with scotchbrite and lightly greased the surface to keep it from rusting again.
My rear drums were seized on last fall when I went to remove them to bead blast them and paint them black (they show thru the aluminum wheels, and rusty, looked bad) The drums are drilled and threaded to allow the use of metric bolts to jack the drum off the hub if its frozen. You don't have any way to hit or pry on the drum, like you do with the front rotor. (front rotors should be drilled too for bolts to jack them off)
To remove the stuck drums, go to the hardware store and buy two metric bolts, fully threaded, 8mm x 1.25mm thread pitch. the bolts need to be about 30mm (1¼ inch) long to get the bolt head out clear of the hub.
The removal of the rear bearing/hub is the same whether the car has disc or drums on the rear. My '04 manual says to jack car, remove the wheel, remove the drum or rotor (be sure and have the two bolts on hand in case they are stuck) and if you have ABS, disconnect the sensor wires from the sensor which is on the inboard side of the hub/backing plate above the round fore/aft tube that carries the rear hub. Then it says to remove the four bolts on the inboard side, that pretty much surround the speed sensor, and remove the bearing and hub assembly.
Reassembly is reverse of dis assembly and the torque is 45 lb/ft (61 Nm) on the four bolts. It says with ABS to preform an ABS diagnostic system check, which requires a scan tool. I'm guessing the new hub comes with a new ABS sensor if you have it, and they simply want it checked to verify the operation of the system.
I would have some large hammers, brass drifts, and dead blow hammers on hand, but it might just fall off. The Pontiac manual illustrations suck and you really cannot see well how the parts fit together.
Charles
One thing I have found is that the rotors and drums are prone to rusting to the hubs. Rotor last night was stuck and took prybars and a dead blow to break it loose and slide it off the hub. I cleaned the inside of the rotor and the shoulder of the hub with scotchbrite and lightly greased the surface to keep it from rusting again.
My rear drums were seized on last fall when I went to remove them to bead blast them and paint them black (they show thru the aluminum wheels, and rusty, looked bad) The drums are drilled and threaded to allow the use of metric bolts to jack the drum off the hub if its frozen. You don't have any way to hit or pry on the drum, like you do with the front rotor. (front rotors should be drilled too for bolts to jack them off)
To remove the stuck drums, go to the hardware store and buy two metric bolts, fully threaded, 8mm x 1.25mm thread pitch. the bolts need to be about 30mm (1¼ inch) long to get the bolt head out clear of the hub.
The removal of the rear bearing/hub is the same whether the car has disc or drums on the rear. My '04 manual says to jack car, remove the wheel, remove the drum or rotor (be sure and have the two bolts on hand in case they are stuck) and if you have ABS, disconnect the sensor wires from the sensor which is on the inboard side of the hub/backing plate above the round fore/aft tube that carries the rear hub. Then it says to remove the four bolts on the inboard side, that pretty much surround the speed sensor, and remove the bearing and hub assembly.
Reassembly is reverse of dis assembly and the torque is 45 lb/ft (61 Nm) on the four bolts. It says with ABS to preform an ABS diagnostic system check, which requires a scan tool. I'm guessing the new hub comes with a new ABS sensor if you have it, and they simply want it checked to verify the operation of the system.
I would have some large hammers, brass drifts, and dead blow hammers on hand, but it might just fall off. The Pontiac manual illustrations suck and you really cannot see well how the parts fit together.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:40 pm
- Location: Southside of Atlanta 50 miles or so.
Re: Rear wheel bearing
Inquiring minds want to know the outcome.
Charles
Charles
Re: Rear wheel bearing
I'm pretty certain that the rear wheel bearing is a full hub replacement. In other words, no need to press a bearing.
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Everything You Need to Know about the Vibe
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Everything You Need to Know about the Vibe
Re: Rear wheel bearing
I ended up taking to a shop for replacement. He said that he did indeed have to press the bearing out of it. Thanks for the input though.CharlesinGA wrote:Inquiring minds want to know the outcome.
Charles
Dan