Questions about Power Door Lock System

[esjones]

I posted a few weeks ago that my power door lock on the driver's door has stopped working. The manual lock, from the inside lock lever and the outside key lock, works fine... it's just the power part that doesn't work.I naturally assumed that the solenoid had gone bad. I've not taken the door apart to verify this, but something makes me think that it's NOT the solenoid, but maybe the control module.QUESTION #1: For those of you with RKE, if the car is locked and you push the unlock button ONCE on the remote to unlock just the driver's door, do the parking lights flash? On my car, if I push ONCE, the lights do NOT flash, but on the second push, they do, and all the doors (except driver's) unlock. I seem to remember that the lights flash on the first push AND on the second push. If this is true, my problem may be the control module, and not the solenoid.QUESTION #2: Where is the control module for the power door lock system, and does anyone have a wiring chart for it?Many thanks. Thoughts and suggestions welcome. - Earl

[kunkstyle]

I don't have my car at work today, so I can't verify, but I'm 90% sure that the lights go on on the first and second push of the unlock button.

[lovemyraffe]

The lights should flash everytime you push the unlock button. The only time the lights don't flash is when you push the hatch button.

[esjones]

Thanks for that information. Now... can someone tell me where the control module is for the power door locks, and hopefully a wiring diagram? I'd like to do a thorough diagnosis before opening up the door unnecessarily.

[tribalman]

it should be lights on first press, and second too.have you taken the door apart recently? when i took my back doors apart to check on the window regulator i didn't but it back together correctly and i couldn't unlock that door. maybe the plug came out. accidently had that happen too.

[esjones]

I want to avoid taking the door apart if possible.The fact that the lights do NOT flash on the first press of the remote unlock button suggests to me that the fault is not in the door.If it was just a plug problem or a solenoid problem, it would be logical that the lights would still flash, right?

[bgerlach]

I'm having the exact same problem on my 2003 Vibe GT - but sometimes it will work, but other times it doesn't.When I press the button once, nothing happens with the driver door and the lights don't flash. When I hit the button a second time all the other doors unlock and the lights flash. When locking the lights don't flash but all the doors but the driver door will lock. The problem seems to come and go, some times it works just fine (like today) and others it doesn't work at all (like yesterday).I've been thinking maybe a relay going bad or a lose wire in the door, any suggestions? If anyone thinks it could be the relay - any suggestions on to where it is?

[mjbsb69]

If you have the owner's manual try reprogramming the fobs at the same time. I'm assuming you're talking about the remote keyless entry not working?

[mjbsb69]

By the way, welcome to GenVibe neighbor....I'm here in Moore, OK. Finally....someone else from OK.

[VforVIBE]

Because both of your remotes/cars are 6 years old, I have to ask... have you changed the batteries recently in your FOBs? It's amazing the problems dieing batteries will cause.

[bgerlach]

I haven't tried reprogramming either fob and the problem happens with both, also the problem isn't just with the fob - the power lock button inside the car fails to unlock or lock the driver door when it stops working. So it's not just related to the fob. Talking with some friends, several seem to think it's a loose wire in the door and with opening and closing the door it rattles that wire loose or on just enough to make the connection. So I'll guess I'll have to figure out how to take the door panels off to check all the wires in the door.Hey there mjbsb69

[performancepixel]

My passenger side door went out about three months ago and the driver's side door went out about two weeks ago. I tried to find out what a replacement actuator would cost from my local AutoZone, but they said it was not available from them at least. They suggested cleaning the electrical contacts. So I a door clip tool and some CRC electrical cleaner. I started with the driver's side door and tried to clean all of the electrical plugs and then lubricated the cable from the lock toggle inside and the key hole and mechanism. The actuator is housed in a portion of the larger latch assembly. I tried to get some WD-40 inside of this housing and connected the electrical plugs and the power lock started working again. The same procedure was used on the passenger side, but it was still dead. So I removed the whole latch assembly and was able to open the clam shell enough to see a very small electrical motor with a worm gear on the shaft that interfaced with a standard gear connected to the lock toggle cable that went back to the inner door handle and lock. I lubricated these gears and tried to spray to electrical cleaner into the small motor. I put everything back together and this side still failed.During the cleaning and lubrication effort, I noticed the window had come down about an inch so I put the key in the ignition and put it up. I tried the power lock again and it worked. Actually it locked an unlocked as it should when the key is the ignition.I spent a total of about thee hours on the effort. Removing the door panel is pretty easy, you just have to remove the screw from the door grab divot and start pulling the panel from the bottom. The door clip tool was nice, but not a necessity. Before the panel will tilt out and off, you have to pull the little black triangle of plastic at the upper front corner of the panel. This plastic piece should be pulled from the top. The plastic electrical connectors are a pain to get disconnected, so be careful not to break the plug latch clips with them. To get the whole latch assembly out, you have to remove the inside door release handle(one screw hidden by trim cover) then lift the assembly starting at the rear then slide the assembly back and it will come away from the door. Once you have this loose, you can remove the cables. The latch has three torx bolts that need to come off and then pull the black circular cover above the latch to access another torx screw that holds the key mechanism in place. Pull the key assembly and then take off a black metal panel that is between the latching mechanism and the inner door release handle. The hardest part is taking out the latch assembly. It has to be twisted around and past the window track so it can be removed via the hole created where the black metal panel was removed. This latch assembly has a ton of clips all around it and will require some care not to break any off when opening it. There is also a plastic shield around the top of the assembly, which I assume is to shed moisture if you leave your window open in the rain. I could only get enough clips open to have about a 1/4" opening to see the motor and gears. I need a little bit thicker lubricant than I had. Places I could not really get to I used WD-40. For the parts I could get to, I used some Pedro's Dry all purpose lubricant. This is bicycle lubricant of medium viscosity. I am glad I tackled it and did not end up with a "basket case" I had to take to the dealer.Hope this helps.

[Seanie]

Did you fix this? I'm looking to get a vive that has this problem, so if you figured it out that would be great?

[wintersilke]

I am having the same problem with my 05 Vibe on the driver's side. The keyless remote, electrical door lock/unlock switch, and putting the car into gear/into park will not trigger the driver's side door lock, which is how I have the keyless alarm set up.Interestingly, when the car is put into drive, all the locks except the driver's side lock (as I have it set up) and when the alarm sees that the driver's side is not locking as it is suppose to, the alarm goes off. That is probably to tell the driver that something is wrong. Unfortunately unless you notice that the driver's side is still unlocked, you would have no idea what the problem is.Did the gentleman who managed to dismantle and fix his take any photos. I was hoping that I could see a photo of what the screw part that controls the locking cable that is worn out looks like and how it should look when it is not worn out.Does anyone know what size torx screw this takes to remove the locking mechanism?