help with alarm instal.

[mcgusto82]

This is the installation guide that came with my alarm. go figure..on this picture there is a connector (1) i don't know where this is suppossed to go to. the second thing (2) i'm not sure if this the tach wire. (injector)since it doesn't show a tach connector but know it needs one. i'm thinking this is the one.i would surely appreciate the aid. tomorrow morning i'm going to sink myself on this endevor. i'm not paying some guy to doit and tell me the same thing the last guy did.ohh, another question. this diagram doesn't show a aux line. you know.. for the rear glass. the remotes have a aux button. so i figure there is one. anybody see it?

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[Jahntassa]

The (1) is an input wire. Generally wired to a hoodpin or trunk pin it'll set off the alarm when it senses a connection to ground.(2) is your starter cut relay. It feeds a ground signal whenever the alarm is armed.Best I can figure, white is the output for the trunk release. Brown is probably the wire you want for tach (though I have no idea what 'Indicator light wire to oil pressure" means)The door locks (I think) you want to put Yellow and Yellow/black to ground, and use White as your lock, and White/Black as the unlock wire.Sorry to say, but good luck with this. I think i've seen one alarm with a guide like this back when I worked at Circuit City. Could never get the remote start to work, and I think the guy ended up ripping it out... But.. it might've been a completely different alarm.. so give it a shot! That should be all you were missing, the rest seems more or less straightforward.

[mcgusto82]

so where again is (2) suppossed to go to??i'm gettin the chills just thinking about this.as far as the lock/unlock. the manual has another page. it refers as the first few wires on the left are for vihicle with central locking system the vibe isn't equip with these. i'm suppossed to use the green wires for lock and unlock.i think. this is the worse instalation guide i've ever seen. even my intake without installation guide was more logical than this. lol100$ shipped though. can't beat it. 2 way FM with 2 transmitters.

[mcgusto82]

this is the other page i mentioned. so which is it? positive triggered or negative triggered?out flashers are negativ too right?

241270=8720-TJJAlarm2.jpg

[Jahntassa]

If you have power door locks, then you need to wire them the way I suggested. It's a negative trigger, which is the diagram in the upper right of the pages you showed (if you were looking at it normally)The (2) is for a seperate relay that you may or may not have. If you don't have this extra relay, then it does nothing. If you do, then it prevents someone from running the starter when the alarm is armed.I believe the flashers are negative..

[mcgusto82]

well, it's now getting dark. (hate early winter days)i got most of the alrm to work. actually the alarm works fine.no joy though. decided to stop because of the time. plus i had to pee.ok, a recap. (3) use a relay to override the clutch. this was the interrupted device. i got the signal from the yellow wire out of three (blue, green, yellow)the yellow is the starter signal. connected the ground on the relay to the ebrake power side wire.i figured that it (yellow) was a positive signal. it isn't. it's ground. soo.. the main unit gives the ground to start. since i had the relay going to a ground. the starter signal won't stop. i figured this out after i took the main unit off to trouble shoot. it still kept on trying to start as soon as i give it clutch.i'm going to fix this tomorrow. i will interrup the starter signal at the power side this time.another thing. my dam cluster lights won't go off.i haven't tried to figure this out yet. i have the flasher control going to the wire underneath the head light switch. reverse polarity with a relay too. since the alarm only offers positive trigger.

241329=8723-TJJAlarm.jpg

[Jahntassa]

You might have to draw what you did..it doesn't quite make sense to me.. (I think..)One of the bad things about this alarm is it uses the same color wiring in multiple places, and makes it very confusing..The yellow wire going to the 'Engine Power Out Circuit' is a ground. yes. That's designed to cut power to the starter wire (NOT ON THE REMOTE START). Only through a relay.In order to bypass the clutch switch you need to connect the Yellow wire that it says is going to the start wire in the ignition directly to the wire beyond the clutch switch. There are two wires going into said switch. Use a meter to determine which is coming from the ignition, and which is going to the starter. Unplug the harness from the switch and try starting the car while using a meter to determine which wire is which. The yellow wire that should be going to the start wire should go on the wire that does not show 12v when you turn the ignition.

[mcgusto82]

look at figure A. before installation, i thought this was a positive signal from the start/alarm. it's instead a ground signal when i request from the key fob. having this ground connected to the relay and then going to the e-brake for ground. it's as though i keep cranking the car. the car would try to start with the key off as soon as i steped on the clutch. now, i know.i did this because i want to keep the car from starting if the e-brake is off. tomorrow i'm going to move the yellow signal to a positive side of the relay (yellow)basically, i'm still going to keep the e-brake for relay ground. i do have the power out relay. i figure i wasn't going to use it. now, i'm thinking about using it.

241335=8724-bypass.JPG

[Jahntassa]

Try this setup.Basically you want to make it so the car will not start unless the ebrake is activated. Makes sense!So, take the positive output from the starter relay off the remote start (the one that would be going into the ignition harness), and put it into pin 30 of your relay, also jumper it over into pin 86. Take the output from your e-brake and put it into pin 85.Now take the output from pin 87 of the relay and run that to the starter side of the clutch switch.This way you're bypassing your clutch switch ONLY for the remote start. BUT, if your e-brake is not on, it won't allow power to pass, and will not run the starter.

241375=8725-relaysetup.gif

[mcgusto82]

ok, well. it's another day. i'm going out there early this time. i'll give your idea try. basically everything is installed. just need to place everything in their permenant position and re wire the e-brake relay. i still haven't figured out where i'm going to put the LED. any ideas?i was thinking in the headlight housing. that would be a cool set up.

[Jahntassa]

I used a blank panel next to the hatch release.. They do have specially made LEDs to go on the headlight housings, but I wouldn't use the one that comes with the alarm. The specially made ones have a rubber piece that effectively seals the hole you'd have to drill, so no water can get in.

[mcgusto82]

blah!!everything works. the alarm, the starter. i didn't install the engine cut off relay. i'll get that done next weekend. my wife was realing bugging me about going to the store. i got one issue that i thought was small. at first trials, the car would only start with the door open. seeing that the alarm wasn't recognizing the door trigger. i thought maybe the sensor is damaged. i figured.. what the hell. i have the shock sensor. that'll pick up the door opening. and it does. at the end while reading the the book. i noticed that the alarm kept on arming itself. thurn out that the alarm will keep on arming itself until it senses the door has been open. kinda like the stock setting where if you unlock and don't open the door, the car will lock itself. well the alarm has this feature. without it, it keeps on arming.i bypassed the negative trigger at the door by grounding it. so now i have to figure out what's up. i goit my wire instructions from bulldog security.com. they suggest thatt he door trigger is at the dome light switch. i can't rememebr what wire it says to use. the alarm isn't damaged. the car just isn't sending the signal.