yeah i wish it was that simple but stupid me didn't realise that the base vibe with no power package also doesn't include a power trunk release so i'm stuck unlocking and the locking my truck all that time
Even without a power package you should have a button beside your steering wheel (I think?)... someone will correct me if I'm wrong about that - which I might be... I'm only right 99 % of the time. LOL Just kidding of course.
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Current: 2012 Nissan Juke SL - Sapphire Blue Onyx (July '12 - present) Current: 2012 Nissan Leaf SL 100% Electric - Blue Ocean (Dec '11 - present)
Quote, originally posted by Sputnik »correct me if I'm wrong.your wrong. I'm tring to figure that out myself looking thru the service manual. I don't know why you can't just buy the components and install them yourself. might be a bit pricey.
my whole plan was to save on the power package and get the alarm and power doors installed by a guy i know and get him to hock up the alarm with the trunk release to find out that one didn't even come with my vibe and he can't think of a way to install one so that is why i am here.... to find an answer!!
if you are talking about the button that i can see on Sputnik vibe through his cardomain site on page 8 the button beside the little coin holder no i do not have one of those buttons on my vibe
lock assembly in the tailgate $69.00 part #88969884actuator $90.00 part #88969885dash switch $35.00 part #88970412wire to run from the dash to the actuator $?I guess i'll unlock it with the key for a while.
Quote, originally posted by PEDALS »if you are talking about the button that i can see on Sputnik vibe through his cardomain site on page 8 the button beside the little coin holder no i do not have one of those buttons on my vibe Good eye! yes thats the button I'm talking about - and for what its worth, Sputnik is actually a she, rather than a "he."
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Current: 2012 Nissan Juke SL - Sapphire Blue Onyx (July '12 - present) Current: 2012 Nissan Leaf SL 100% Electric - Blue Ocean (Dec '11 - present)
Expanding on this topic: Has anyone rigged up a remote hatch opener for the Vibe?I've been looking at the rear hatch trying to figure out the best way to do this and still don't have a clue. I don't think the existing struts could be modified/replaced to supply enough force to lift the gate, but maybe a second set could get it started.When I was shopping around, I really liked the power tailgate option in the Chrysler Pacifica, but didn't think it was worth $800.
Quote, originally posted by scherry2 »lock assembly in the tailgate $69.00 part #88969884actuator $90.00 part #88969885dash switch $35.00 part #88970412wire to run from the dash to the actuator $?I guess i'll unlock it with the key for a while. you can do this using generic parts. Probably cost $20 total and of couse some of your time. I usually try to tackle projects like these on the weekend, so I have plenty of time to rig something together without rushing it. It is on my list of things to do. I am currently putting actuators in all four doors. When I'm done with that, on to the hatch.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------2004 Base - TwoTone Neptune - 5 speed There are 10 types of people in life. There are those who understand binary and those who do not.
Well, not very important, admittedly.However, I've had several occasions where I'm loaded with bags in my arms and can still hold the fob...but have to put down stuff to open the gate. Plus, if it's raining, having an already-open gate is a nice thing to have.Who am I foolin'? I just think it would be cool.
Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »Who am I foolin'? I just think it would be cool. I agree!!! I'm curious to see if someone can rig something up...
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
Don't know if you'd need stronger struts, but you would definitely need an additional mechanism (ex. solonoid) to open the latch and release the gate.I was thinking that a second set of struts could be installed to get the door started and let the existing set complete the job. The hatch will lift up on its own after about 45 degrees of travel.The other way to go would be a motorized system (which would offer ability to close as well), but I'd have to see an existing one to figure it out. Would definitely need a high-torque motor.
actually all you would need is a linear rod actuator they sell them all the places thatdo shaved doors and vertical door and stuff. you just take off one ore both of the rear stuts and put the actuator in its place it has a couple of hundred pound capacity so one should work and wire up the motor. im sure you could use a relay and remote on it too .check out http://www.autoloc.com they have them for 150 and up they also sell power window door trunk and flamethrower kits
look my sniggies, i had a strizz-oke in my brizz-ain okay,you know what im saying. so i cant move all good. but thanks for mentioning that .thank you very much.athf4evr. click here! you know you want to!!!
do you mean you want it to pop the hatch door open? or do you just want it to unlock?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------2004 Base - TwoTone Neptune - 5 speed There are 10 types of people in life. There are those who understand binary and those who do not.
Quote, originally posted by PEDALS »has anybody even been successful in just adding something that will release the trunk from the FOB not just the rear window??When you unlock the doors, it also unlocks the hatch.
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
Thanks for the link, satur9. AutoLoc also has several auctions on ebay for less.I'm willing to give it a try. I think a linear actuator with an 8-10" stroke and 250lb force should do it. I'll also need a solonoid to hold open the hatch release plus a remote to fire it up (don't know if I can modify my existing fob yet).Cost really won't be the issue; I think the total for parts wil be below $300. Tough part will be properly installing the actuator.
just take the wires from and mabey solenoid from the widow hatch. you already have a button on the fob and poping the glass(which i think is useless) AND hatch is redundant.
look my sniggies, i had a strizz-oke in my brizz-ain okay,you know what im saying. so i cant move all good. but thanks for mentioning that .thank you very much.athf4evr. click here! you know you want to!!!
Quote, originally posted by satur9 »just take the wires from and mabey solenoid from the widow hatch. you already have a button on the fob and poping the glass(which i think is useless) AND hatch is redundant.I think you're onto something there. Following your idea, I think I could take the power going to the window glass solonoid and use that for a new hatch release solonoid instead. That way, I can still use the fob to start the hatch opening. At the suggestion of someone at matrixowners.com, I took a look at a Toyota Sienna with a motorized hatch. It uses a high-torque rotary motor mounted inside the left-rear pillar. It has a 6" arm attached at a pivot to a strut which attached to the hatch. It only turns about 90º and the total linear throw is only about 10". I have pics, but haven't offloaded them from the camera. It's a nice system; opens in about 5-6 seconds.I'm still not sure that a linear actuator will work at the start of the movement; there may be too much force required to get it started. Plus, I don't know how it could be manually overridden.Not giving up...just doing some more research.
the torque on the actuators should be enough.they are even used in lamborghini door conversions to power lift doors .most of the "pressure"you feel on the hatch is the dampening on the shocks to keep it from going up to fast.2 of the big actuators should lift over 1000 pounds. so the regular ones should do fine.
look my sniggies, i had a strizz-oke in my brizz-ain okay,you know what im saying. so i cant move all good. but thanks for mentioning that .thank you very much.athf4evr. click here! you know you want to!!!
I'm not sure about that. See the crude cross-section sketch attached to this post.Because the struts are mounted almost inline with the hatch in the closed position, it would require tremendous force to begin lifting the hatch. In fact, I'm sure the force is proportional to the tangent of the angle of attack; as it approaches zero, the force required approached infinity. Similarly, the force approaches minimum as the strut's angle approaches 90º to the frame. The linear actuators I've seen for tourneau covers and doors all have some angle of attack at the start...at least 20-30 degrees. That doesn't exist with the existing struts (which is why they can't open the hatch until it's opened at least 45 degrees).