2010 NO M&T - H/U Installation help

[mf3rr0]

Alright, here's the deal. I'm trying to install a new hu in my vibe, however I can't get the new hu to power up. currently I have the following unhooked, as per harness:1) Yellow - Battery 12+2) Red - Ignition 12+3) Orange - Dimmer4) Light Blue - Power Antenna5) Light Blue with Red Cap - ?Now, if I take the yellow (harness) to the green (on vibe) then the HU will powerup til the JVC logo appears before turning off... I can't figure this out... Any takers wanna help me match these up?ThanksEDIT: Also be advised, I do not have M&T nor am I trying to retain onstar.

[mf3rr0]

Any ideas or a point in the right direction? All searches have turned up empty, thus far.I think I need to figure out where the red goes, seems I'm missing the constant :/

[jayman2009]

mf3rr0 What the probs is is some harnese's do not give the right power it needs. Ive done hundereds of installes on diff cars. Some come with anouther red wire and a fuse adapter to piggy back off in the fuse box. Ive ran into the prob on a fue cars. My ex's 2003 cav dident need it.but her moms 2004 did. my mom 2006 vibe needed it my 2003 dident.

[mf3rr0]

I'm sorry man, I don't get what you're saying... Can you explain please?

[jayman2009]

Some wireing adapters come with a 2-3 foot red wire that you need to use and tap into a fuse in the fuse panle. For some cars you need to for some you dont.

[mf3rr0]

Ahh... Yeah, seems like that's my problem. Only, it didn't come with a fuse adapter ... Can you point me in a direction to learn how to tap into that fuse box?

[mf3rr0]

Could I go into the ignition harness? If so, would it be the accessory wire(gray)?

[mf3rr0]

Well. Got an update - hooked by yellow AND red into my AC adapter button (which I tend to keep on at all times) and I now have a working stereo... Only, it drops settings when the car turns off... This must be because the yellow needs to go else where, but wth a voltammeter, I've yet to find a constant, anyone got an idea?

[Krystian]

im not sure exactly what you did but heres my advice assuming you have all the speaker wires hooked theres not much else to hook up ground it to chassis not the wire then yellow from hu to constant in veichle and do the same with accessory if that dosent work then just play witth the wires that are left over till it comes on and saves all ur info its deleting because there is no constant power you hooked both the constant and the acc from the radio to the acc wire in the car use a meter to find constant 12 wire in car or run one but it should be there last but not least check the fuses both under the hood and inside may already be blown

[jonnypwtf]

I ran into the exact same problem in my 2009 (no M&T). The head unit adapter harness came with a strand of red wire which needs to be connected to a 12V source that is switched with the ignition. I tried running the red wire to the fuse panel and plugging it into what I thought would be a switched circuit (CIG if I recall correctly). However, the head unit was still fully powered even when the key was out of the ignition. If my car sat for a few days, the stereo would completely drain my battery.I didn't feel like ripping the dash apart to connect the red wire directly to the cigarette lighter. I knew there had to be an ignition switch connection in the stock harness to control the stock stereo. After all, the stock stereo turns on and off when the key is turned to ACC. To figure which wire it was, I simply used a volt meter to test each connector pin while turning the ignition on and off. I eventually found the switched connector in the stock harness (I can't remember which one, sorry). The switched connector should line up with an empty connector in the harness adapter block. I then took the loose red wire, stripped the end off, and forced it into the proper connector in the harness adapter block. I know this is not a totally permanent solution (no soldering), but it has worked for me without any problems for over a year now.I don't think you should have to do anything special with the yellow wire. It should be unswitched 12V+. Since your yellow wire is switched (AC button), you are cutting all power to the head unit. This is why you are losing all of your memory settings.Hope this helps,JP

[journeyforce]

The radio should have 2 fuses in the fusebox. One keeps memory(radio stations, clock etc) the other is for the radio functions. The fuse for the memory might be under the cig lighter fuse.Simply hook the yellow (12v constant) to the cig lighter fuse and hook the red to the AC button or something that is only hot with the key on. Use a tapafuse that way there is no need to go cutting into the dash wiring.Also if your radio works when the key is removed that is normal because the car has RAP(retained accesory Power) as long as the radio turns off when a door is opened then that is fine, this is how the factory system is suposed to be.Good luck

[journeyforce]

Go get yourself a tapafuse from the local parts store (should be under $6) and some extra wire and some (removed) connectors. The tapafuse has a inch of red wire with a (removed) connector on it. You simply connect a wire up to it and crimp it down then add a new fuse and the fuse from the circuit you are taking power from and you should be good to go