journeyforce wrote:First of all, get yourself a $30 eBay OBDII scan tool so that you never have to go and beg Advance or Autozone to use theirs.
It seems more and more that the issues are pointing to the CAI. Here are some descriptions of those codes. They seem to be geared to Benz and VW but the info is sound and is one of the best explanation that I have read on these codes
PO170
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0170" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
P0171
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
P0172
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0172" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It seems all points to oil contamination of the MAF. I would clean it and put the OEM stuff back on and drive it for a month or so. Then clean the sensor off again and put your aftermarket stuff back on. If the light is triggered and those codes show up after the CAI is put back on then the issue is the CAI. If this light goes on and the same codes are listed and you have the OEM stuff on it then the MAF might be bad.
As for the fuel cap issue you mentioned in one of the first posts in this thread, next time you fill your tank up look at the underside of the cap. There should be a large rubber O ring, make sure it is seated all the way. I had a friend with a Toyota Solara and he had fuel cap issues. It was because the O ring was not seated right and was crooked. It was also a 2.4l engine like yours so maybe that engine is more sensitive then others?
Thanks for all the info journeyforce! I actually Googled the codes the other day when I got home from Auto Zone and read through those exact links that you posted.
Do you have any recommendations for a good, cheap OBD-II scanner? I don't mind going to the local Auto Zone, but having my own would certainly be even better. It was actually a woman who helped me at Auto Zone and she was saying I was her best customer ever for checking codes because I had opened up the little door that covered the OBD-II port. She said she would have been looking for it for 10 minutes since every vehicle is different. She seemed to be at least somewhat car-savvy. She asked me if I wanted her to print out the code info and I told her no, that I would just look them up online. She said to Google them and check out forums. I told her I had the forum angle covered already

!
Anyway... the lights actually went off on my way home from work Friday. On Wednesday or Thursday (can't remember which day for sure), I double checked that the screws that hold the MAF to the CAI tube were nice and tight. Sure enough, the one did require a turn or two to become completely tight again. I also removed the AEM Dryflow air filter wrap from the air filter. I drove the 7 miles to my grandma's after work Friday. I shut the car off, went inside for about 10 minutes and when I came back out and started the car to head home, the lights were off. I think the problem is the MAF needs to really be seated nice and tight in the tube or it lets air escape or something and therefore causes the lights to come on and codes to be thrown. I am thinking I am going to remove the MAF and try to sand the edges of the hole in the CAI tube a tiny bit. It seems like the MAF fits in the hole a little too snug, so I am thinking if it sits in the hole a little better, it should seal better and be easier to get nice and tight. It's kind of frustrating because I didn't start having these issues until I cleaned the MAF/IAT sensors for the first time last year. I used the proper cleaner and all, but I don't know if it screwed up the rubber gasket on the MAF or what. I may end up just going ahead and ordering a new MAF. I don't think they're
too expensive (about $60.00 on GM Parts Center.net IIRC).
As far as the gas cap goes, I will definitely double check the gasket on it, but I really don't think the gas cap has anything to do anything as I am sure to always turn it until it won't click anymore.
Thanks again for the help and insight. I'll be sure to post again if the lights come back on or anything.