Another oil switching question..

[CAMOGIRL]

I know, I know... I've read everyone's opinions and ideas on the various types of oil, so opinions on type of oil in general is not the question. My vibe has been serviced from the get go with 10w30 oil. Not my choice, but it is what the car knew for it's first 9 years. I didn't think to ask on my last oil change, but since I am coming up on another, I need some advice. I am thinking about switching over to full synthetic because of the amount of miles in short amounts of time I put on my engine. My questions:1. What, if any damage has been done by using this heavier weight than called for oil?2. Since it has always had this weight, will there be any issues NOW switching to the recommended weight?3. Anything I need to have done in preparation for the full synthetic oil? A flush? ANything?Any other comments are welcome if there is something I am not thinking about...

[wallyuwl]

I don't know how cold KS gets, but if it has regularly cold winters then you may have a bit extra engine wear on start-ups from using 10W30. Otherwise, there shouldn't be any other issues.The only issue with switching to 5W30 would be oil seeping through the engine seals more easily than the 10W30 if you have a seal leak somewhere. But using the 10W30 wouldn't have caused this. If you have a seal leak it is something you'd want to get serviced anyway.No issues with switching to a full synthetic. I think Quaker State Ultimate Durability is a great oil for the price, and the 1.8 runs very smooth on it (better than with Synpower, IMO, from using both). Any modern oil should do just fine, though, provided regular oil changes (5k at most for conventional, 7k for synthetic, but these are just general guidelines and your driving habits will influence this - but these are pretty conservative interval recommendations for modern oils in this engine).

[Salsa Guy]

10W-30 should be OK in your area. Normally switching to a Syn isn't a issue with these cars. There is no need to flush the engine before switching unless you want to. I switched to mobil 1 at 90K miles and no leaks or issues (4K miles later). If most of your miles are Highway you can be more liberal with the oil change. If more stop and go or dirty/dusty condition more conservative.

[star_deceiver]

Quote, originally posted by CAMOGIRL »1. What, if any damage has been done by using this heavier weight than called for oil? Nothing, most likely. 2. Since it has always had this weight, will there be any issues NOW switching to the recommended weight? I doubt it, you should be fine.3. Anything I need to have done in preparation for the full synthetic oil? A flush? ANything? Drain the old oil, change the filter, add the synthetic new oil. Done!If you really want to do something extra, seafoam treat the engine and drive 200 miles before you change the oil!

[CAMOGIRL]

Sounds as straightforward as I hoped! Thanks!

[djkeev]

My questions:1. What, if any damage has been done by using this heavier weight than called for oil? Hard to know. 10W in the dead of winter may have caused some start up damage but there is no way of knowing without ripping the motor open.2. Since it has always had this weight, will there be any issues NOW switching to the recommended weight?There shouldn't be any issues switching, your engine may thank you to finally have the proper oil in it. You may also see an increase in fuel mileage!3. Anything I need to have done in preparation for the full synthetic oil? A flush? ANything?Nope, drain and fill. I'd forego the engine flush idea previously suggested. No need for it if it has had regular oil changes with a quality brand oil. More than enough detergents are in every quart of oil. Don't risk actually doing damage with snake oil additives! Oil is a funny topic full of controversy. Bottom line, use what the factory recommended be used. In your case the weight suggestion is on the oil cap.Dave