PCV Valve?

[ColonelPanic]

Just curious about recommended replacement intervals for the PCV valve... This has been something that I used to do every 30,000 or so, whether it needed it or not...I see a part number for the thing in my owner's manual, but don't see it mentioned anywhere in the maintenance schedule... Unless I missed it, which you guys know with me, is always a good possiblity. Any suggestions on replacing it? And where the heck is it anyway? I saw something that *may* be it when I took the engine cover off the other day (located at the top of the engine, driver's side toward the rear.) Is that it? It looked like it screwed in and had a hose attached to it, so it may be... TIA!

[ToolGuy]

Reminds me I should do mine...Here is a pic and steps:1) Loosen the PCV valve hose clamp (2). 2) Remove the PCV valve hose (3) from the PCV valve 3) Remove the PCV valve (1) from the cylinder head.

Attached files

[ColonelPanic]

Much thanks for the info! Cool, I was looking at the right thing after all. I'll get this taken care of sometime soon, looks super easy.

[jake75]

The Midas dealer here used to make a lot of money replacing PCV valves (positive crankcase ventilation I think). They'd take it off and show the suckers how it rattled. (Of course the new one's rattle.)

[ColonelPanic]

The old rattle test... heh!

[Mojo72]

Thanks for the job aid and schematic. Perfect!!

[Sublimewind]

They can be cleaned out with a little carb cleaner to extend the life a bit.. They aren't expensive, but if you were frugal enough, you can clean them to..

[bodhi_tree777]

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »They can be cleaned out with a little carb cleaner to extend the life a bit.. They aren't expensive, but if you were frugal enough, you can clean them to.. quick question (well, 2 actually)..is it worth it to clean it? what i mean is, will it be like new, or just extend the life a bit? Also, I just cleaned my MAF with some CRC MAF cleaner, can the same be used on the PCV or ..? (maybe a dumb question, but worth a shot)

[Mojo72]

I'm havng concerns about the PCV valve that I bought from autopartswareshouse.com. It's a Standard Motor Products brand and the part number is V375. I'm concerned for 2 main reasons.1) The OEM PCV valve takes a 7/8" socket, but the replacement Standard uses a 3/4" socket. Hmmm.2) Even after reverse turning the threads and making sure I had the new pcv valve threaded and seated correctly, it seems to be taking more effort with the rachet than I would have expected to get it it. So much so that I stopped after about a 1/4 inch and then took the replacement valve out to prevent any potential damage. I found some metal shavings in the hole and become concerned that I was chewing up the aluminum head with and odd sized steel part. Steel wins over aluminum, right?I double checked the part number on Standard's website and they confirmed that V375 is intended for a 2003 - 2006 Pontiac Vibe.My questions are:1) Should it matter whether my engine is a Code 8 (the 8th digit of my VIN is 8) or a Code L in selecting the correct pcv valve?2) Should I be concerned with the extra effort at turning the pcv valve into the block? The engine has been sitting since yesterday afternoon and is cold.Thanks!

[zionzr2]

Quote, originally posted by Mojo72 »I'm havng concerns about the PCV valve that I bought from autopartswareshouse.com. It's a Standard Motor Products brand and the part number is V375. I'm concerned for 2 main reasons.1) The OEM PCV valve takes a 7/8" socket, but the replacement Standard uses a 3/4" socket. Hmmm.2) Even after reverse turning the threads and making sure I had the new pcv valve threaded and seated correctly, it seems to be taking more effort with the rachet than I would have expected to get it it. So much so that I stopped after about a 1/4 inch and then took the replacement valve out to prevent any potential damage. I found some metal shavings in the hole and become concerned that I was chewing up the aluminum head with and odd sized steel part. Steel wins over aluminum, right?I double checked the part number on Standard's website and they confirmed that V375 is intended for a 2003 - 2006 Pontiac Vibe.My questions are:1) Should it matter whether my engine is a Code 8 (the 8th digit of my VIN is 8) or a Code L in selecting the correct pcv valve?2) Should I be concerned with the extra effort at turning the pcv valve into the block? The engine has been sitting since yesterday afternoon and is cold.Thanks! I'm no mechanic but I would be concerned on both counts. Code 8 is the 1 zzfe engine (Base and AWD models) and Code L is the 2zzfe engine (the GT model).

[DarkSpork]

So, what is a good interval for replacement? My 2ZZGE sounds kind of rattly if you pop the hood and listen at idle. I took it to a mechanic and suggested it to be the PCV valve and he said its quiet for a high compression engine and there was nothing needing replacement.

[Mojo72]

I think I'm going to a local auto parts store (not a chain, but one that supplies local garages) and ask them what the story is on the correct pcv valve size. Thanks!

[ToolGuy]

That is why I went to the GM dealer for mine because there is one for each Vibe engine. If it were one size for all I would get it from a local auto store.

[Sublimewind]

Don't forget the Teflon thread tape... whatever you do, don't forget SOME sort of antiseize on the threads... Steel in Aluminum means corrision.. Just make sure you don't get any of the anti seize in the engine..

[joatmon]

Quote, originally posted by Mojo72 »I'm havng concerns about the PCV valve that I bought I bought one from a general auto parts store and ran into the same problems, although I don't remember what brand or part number I bought. I felt that I was going to strip out or cross thread something if I tried to force it in, so I put the original one back in. I was replacing it for preventative maintenance, and while I had the old one out I checked it, it still seemed fine.

[ToolGuy]

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »Don't forget the Teflon thread tape... whatever you do, don't forget SOME sort of anti seize on the threads... Steel in Aluminum means corrision.. Just make sure you don't get any of the anti seize in the engine.. I hear ya but the new GM part comes with thread locker already on it. No anti seize was on the original but the metal was not normal shiny steal, it was coated...

[kevera]

I ran into this problem last year when I changed mine.There are 2 types of pc valves for our engines.1 has a fine thread,the other has a coarse thread.Don't have part #'s off the top of my head,but there are 2.*EDIT*Fram #'sFV406-16MM X 1.5MM(gm#94859406-TOYOTA#12204-22040)FV407- 3/8"(GM#94859404-TOYOTA#12204-22050)

[Mojo72]

I was in Murray's Auto Parts (local Detroit chain) yesterday and saw the two different FV-406 and FV-407 part numbers listed in the Fram catalog. That makes sense re/ two different pcv valves on the engine. Given that I'm trying to replace the pcv valvle on on the top right side of the block, as described by ToolGuy in his excellent schematic posted on 01/10/05, I'm thinking that I bought the "other" pcv valve. Does anyone know where that other pcv valve is located?When I go to the dealership today to get some more plastic pins for the engine cover (yea, I broke them), I'm going to pickup a pcv valve from their parts counter and be done with it.ToolGuy, do you have a schematic for the location of that other valve?

[ToolGuy]

I think the locations should be the same but will check, hang on a few moments... Be right back.

[kevera]

Quote, originally posted by Mojo72 » Does anyone know where that other pcv valve is located?It's the same spot.There is only 1 PCV valve per engine.Just 2 different thread types.

[ToolGuy]

Yep same location for LNK or LV6 and same torque if you wanted or care about that. 27 nm (13 lbs. ft)I did not torque mine to spec, I could tell when I had it seated firmly.

[Mojo72]

Wow! So depending on my particular block, only one of the two listed valve sizes will fit my block's threading. That would mean that the best course of action is to buy both parts and make sure to keep my receipt for return of the valve that doesn't fit. Am I reading this right?

[kevera]

Or buy the opposite one that you just bought.FV406-16MM X 1.5MM=fine threadFV407- 3/8=coarse thread

[Mojo72]

Bingo!! Thanks to both of you for getting me through my fog! I just wasn't processing how two different part sizes could be intended for the same application.

[kevera]

It's cuz I found out the hard way also.Once you find the right one, keep the part# handy.

[Mojo72]

That info will definately go into my maintenance notebook.

[pljenkins]

Quote, originally posted by bodhi_tree777 »quick question (well, 2 actually)..is it worth it to clean it? what i mean is, will it be like new, or just extend the life a bit? Also, I just cleaned my MAF with some CRC MAF cleaner, can the same be used on the PCV or ..? (maybe a dumb question, but worth a shot)PCV valve is $6 at Napa. Not even worth the trouble to clean it, just replace the darn thing!

[abbotlex]

My local Checker Auto Parts has the part numbers separated based on 2WD or AWD. Engine does NOT matter. I don't know how that makes a difference with the PCV valve thread size, but it might be how to get the right part ahead of time.

[tarross2002]

love this forum, everytime i need something i search and find it right away.

[Mark]

Just changed mine last Saturday, at 101k miles. No idea when it was replace before, but I've put 62k on it and never have. NAPA didn't have one in stock but could get me one by Tuesday for $11 paid in advance. Checker and Carquest didn't have one. The local Toyota dealer could order me one for $65!?!!!Advanced had one that they assured me was the correct one for $8, like an idiot I didn't look at the one that was in there first, if I had I would have realized that they were different sizes. I got home and figured out that while the new one was 3/4", the old one was not. I didn't have anything to fit the old one, so I worked it out with a cresent wrench, which was a real pain in the ***.So I returned that one to Advanced and went to Autozone to get the right one, for $6, and also a 7/8" deep socket. The difference in performance has been remarkable, and so far it looks like a major boost in gas milage as well. For the $6 I'm probably going to start changing it once a year as a regular maintenance item.

[fss106]

just did my 03 vibe gt at 136,000 miles. hadn't done it since i bought it at 65k miles. thing was pretty grimy and oily. not much room to work a wrench on the GT models either. the pcv valve is in the back. Had to clamp on a pair of vice grips to get the hose clamp to loosen up-- slid the hose off and then did these tiny little 5 degree baby turns with my wrench to get the old valve off-- new one went on fine though. fired the engine up and heard a vacuum air release sort of noise-- assuming thats just the engine adjusting to the new valve. runs fine.... still purring at 136k miles.

[21Rouge]

Quote, originally posted by ToolGuy »same torque if you wanted or care about that. 27 nm (13 lbs. ft) But 27 nm doesnt equal 13 lbs.ft...does it?

[ou.grizzly]

Bump...

[SilverVibe03]

Hello, what is the part number for the correct pvc valve for a 2003 vibe base. I do not want to buy the wrong one.Thanks

[Mark]

Quote, originally posted by SilverVibe03 »Hello, what is the part number for the correct pvc valve for a 2003 vibe base. I do not want to buy the wrong one.Thanks This one. http://www.autozone.com/autozo...64_0_