thinking of swapping the winter tires myself and was going to pick up a floor jack, but decided to check where i would lift first. The front is easy - there is a large "knob" next to front tow loop. Back is a not so easy with the independent suspension. Any ideas?Yes, I did check the old thread on hoist points, does not apply to GT.
Quote, originally posted by vit »I was looking for a reason to buy a floor jack. Notches work with the little factory jobber of a jack.You could still use a floor jack there. In fact anywhere along that pinch weld between the rocker panel and inner chassis will do. It's one of the strongest places on any vehicle.To rotate the wheels on cars I own (F>R, R>F rotation), I usually line up the jack somewhere behind the front "jack location" so that it will lift the front and rear at the same time and more or less to the same height. I have never had a problem using a floor jack in this manner on any vehicle.
FJ's Garage Thread "There is no tool you can buy that will replace experience." - Josh Mills, C.K.DeLuxe January 2011 GenVibe MOTM
I lift mine where the factory engineers intended it to be lifted, at the notches on the side. Due to the short wheelbase of the car, I can lift one entire side of the car at a time with my floor jack.
NE Ohio - home to the most successful Pontiac drag racing team in history - Bill Knafel's "Tin Indian" and also home to Summit Auto Racing.
2009 Vibe base 1.8L auto towing 2009 Aliner Sport hardsided pop-up
I lift my 2009 with a floor jack but I just bought a pinch weld adapter to lift one corner at a time without crushing the pinch weld with the regular floor jack head. You can also use the old "hockey puck" trick for a homemade adapter.
2009 Vibe 2.4L 1SC - Red Hot Metallic
2011 Sienna V6 CE - Sky Silver
AHHH!!! the floor jack lift points! I see that 06pvibe mentioned them. The ones where you lift either both front wheels or both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously. The front floor jack point is the little hump located behind the tow hook point. Its very easy to find. The rear floorjack point is the weird rectangular box looking thing that comes down and has a flat square shape on the end. star_deceiver has the right idea about using a block of wood those if you wanna avoid scratching up your car. Just gotta be careful though and make sure nothing slipping or moving where you dont want it as you lift it up. what I'll do is I'll use the actual floor jack lift points to get the car up in the air then I'll put jack stands under the pinch weld jacking points already mentioned. Presto DIY tire rotation! or whatever other kind a basic work that you can get done.
here's me using the front floorjack lift point. The piece of wood may not be the best idea because that may shift and cause problems. One time when I was lifting it that thing shifted to one side so I decided to lower the car back down very quickly. I may omit the wood in the future to be safer and just allow the metal hump to get some scratches on it. going up! you may notice I drove my car up on some pieces of wood to gain an extra inch and half of clearance. makes it easier to get the jack underneath. using the rear floorjack lift point! putting my new wheels on! that was a happy day=) one thing I tried was to make block of wood to put on top of my jackstands because the small arms on my stands would not rest across the pinch weld with clearance. Making these turned out to be a bad idea so IM NOT RECOMMENDING MAKING THESE! DONT TRY IT! Im merely showing this to make a demonstration see the problem using these is that the wood easily splits causing and unsafe support. it worked this time but after one use I found that at least two of the wood blocks had major cracking... So the experiment was a FAIL! the way I use the jackstands now is to completely omit any kind of wood. To do this I have to put the stands ends behind the pinch weld so that they are situated in a parallel direction rather than perpendicular or across the pinch weld. I dont have pics of the way I use the stands now but thats how I do it. It seems to be working great for me! Ive noticed using it this way I've messed up some of this coating thats under the frame rails. Its looks like its a foam coating of some kind. but using the stands in this way seems pretty stable. the other option would be to find some stands that could go across the pinch welds and clear them. the little claw on the end would have to be deep enough.
Quote, originally posted by star_deceiver »AHHH!!! the floor jack lift points! I see that 06pvibe mentioned them. The ones where you lift either both front wheels or both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously. The front floor jack point is the little hump located behind the tow hook point. Its very easy to find. The rear floorjack point is the weird rectangular box looking thing that comes down and has a flat square shape on the end. star_deceiver has the right idea about using a block of wood those if you wanna avoid scratching up your car. Just gotta be careful though and make sure nothing slipping or moving where you dont want it as you lift it up.what I'll do is I'll use the actual floor jack lift points to get the car up in the air then I'll put jack stands under the pinch weld jacking points already mentioned. Presto DIY tire rotation! or whatever other kind a basic work that you can get done.I knew about the front point as it's pretty obvious, but the GT does not have the rear lift point like the 1.8 or 2.4 regular flavor cars. There is a tow loop on the middle piece of the independent suspension and that is what we ended up using as a lift point.
I bought two hydraulic jacks a few years ago. I put one at each end and do one side at a time. I usually only rotate front to rear, not left to right. When I do bother with full front-to-rear-and-left-to-right I just do one at a time rotating out the spare as I go. It's more time consuming but the job still gets done.