How To: Rewiring the fog lamp switch the way YOU want it. (2009)

[gimmegimme]

Here's a quick how-to on re-wiring the existing fog lamp switch to do what YOU want. (Yes, the one on the turn-signal stalk.)There are several ways you can do it.1) The fog lamp switch is completely independent, on/off regardless of anything else.2) The fog lamp switch will control the fogs, but only be active when the parking lights are on.3) The fog lamp switch will be active only when the key is in the ACC or ON position.4) The fog lamp switch will do any of the above, and be able to be set to factory with the flick of a switch (good in NJ, or any state where annual inspections check your fog lamp operation).First off:You need to get to the wiring harness for the DRL module. To do this, you will need to remove the glove compartment.1. Open the glove compartment door.2. Disengage the retaining tab and release the panel compartment door stopper.3. Compress each side of the glove compartment, until the upper tabs release.4. Pull the glove compartment door assembly horizontally toward the rear of the vehicle to release the two hinges.Behind the glove compartment, there is a black module on the lower right side of the vertical metal brace. That is the DRL module. If you have options such as the security system, the module will also be mounted on this brace. The white wire in the connector is the fog lamp switch signal wire. This is pin 2. (The two heavy gauge wires are pin A and B.)This wire is connected to chassis ground by the DRL module when it wants the fog lamp switch to be enabled. We're going to change that!Option #1If you want the fog lamps to run WHENEVER... meaning regardless of the key position (OFF/ACC/ON) or whether any other lights are on/off. This option is NOT RECOMMENDED because you can easily forget to turn them off and drain your battery. However, if you insist, then simply splice into the wire and ground it. Boom. Fogs whenever.Option #2If you want to enable the fog lamp switch as soon as the parking lights are turned on, the white wire needs to be matched up with the park lamp switch signal wire. This is the brown wire at pin 13 of the same connector. Splice into the two wires and connect them together.Option #3For this, you will need a SPST relay. You can get an automotive relay at a car-parts store fairly cheap. There should be either four or five pins on the bottom (or wires, if you got it with the matching wiring harness). On the bottom of the relay, as you're holding it, you will see three pins facing the same way, with either one, or two facing at a 90 degree angle. Don't worry, each pin will be labeled on the bottom of the relay.The connections are as follows:30 - Ground86 - Tie in with 3085 - Run to switched power *87 - Run to white wire* Switched power can be any 12v source. It can be gotten from the ignition harness itself, or from behind the radio, or any number of other places. For accessory switched power (on when key in ACC position), the radio is a good example. For ignition switched power (on when key in ON position), the dark blue wire in pin 10 of the DRL connector can be used (this is the same wire that is cut to disable DRL / auto-lights).Basically, you're using the relay to create a switched ground in a car that otherwise wouldn't have one.Option #4In order to add a mod-disable switch that returns the fog lamp switch to factory functionality, simply install a toggle switch between the white fog lamp switch signal wire and the new wire that you spliced into it. Turning the toggle switch OFF will restore the factory functionality. There's lots of room behind the glove compartment to install a switch, or you could use the switch blanks by the traction control button if you don't mind running wires to the driver's side of the car.Many, many thanks to Jahntassa for the original how-to on the 1st gen, which I have used very liberally in creating this how-to.

[vibenvy]

Well, I know what I am going to be doing this weekend!Thanks a ton gimmegimme !

[vibenvy]

Quote, originally posted by J TO ENVY »Well, I know what I am going to be doing this weekend!Thanks a ton gimmegimme !Well, I just finished up doing this and disabling the auto headlights and DRLs as well! It is so sweet to be able to have full control over all the lights now!I will be posting pictures very soon!Thanks again gimmegimme!

[gimmegimme]

Thanks for testing out option #2. The theory seems sound, I'm not sure why it didn't work. I'll see if I can figure something out, or if not, I'll delete that option from the original post.

[gimmegimme]

Ok, I figured out option #2. It is the BROWN wire at pin 13 and not the dark green one I previously posted. I have edited the original post with the new wire color and location.

[vibenvy]

Quote, originally posted by gimmegimme »Ok, I figured out option #2. It is the BROWN wire at pin 13 and not the dark green one I previously posted. I have edited the original post with the new wire color and location.Glad you figured it out! I think I am just going to leave mine grounded though because I just don't feel like messing with it again . I also deleted my one previous post about the original option #2 not working so no one gets confused.Man do I having full control of all the lights! I was cruising around last night with just the parking lights and than the parking lights and fog lights. Man did the Vibe look sexy like that ! Pictures!

[lowincash]

quick question...how do you read the PIN's? does it read downwards? PIN 2 is on the left side number two is 13 on the right side?

[gimmegimme]

Yes, they go downwards. So it the picture posted above, the pins are: A B 1 10 2 11 3 12 4 13 5 14 6 15 7 16 8 17 9 18

[lowincash]

ah ok thanks. i think i will have it spliced to the turn signal wire. so i need something like this to connect them right?http://www.radioshack.com/prod...amilyi think with that i can just clamp the wires together with those things. oh yeah what size wires do you consider them to be? gauge size or whatever. they look very small.

[gimmegimme]

Yes, something like that connector from RadioShack would work except one side of the connector does not allow the wire to go through the other side. If you look at the picture, there is a red and black wire on one side but only the black wire goes through to the other side. The connector does not have an opening to allow the red wire to go through. If you used that connector, you might need to cut the white fog light control wire and attach the side that goes up into the dash to the brown parking light control wire.Or you could use two tap connectors with a new piece of wire, but I think that would start to get a little crowded. I would just shave off some insulation and splice a new piece of wire.As for the size of the wire, I don't know for sure. The service manual says "0.35" but I don't know what that means, only that the wire is really, really thin! The red and green wires in the bottom left of the picture are 22 gauge, and these wires are even smaller than that! So maybe 24 or 26 gauge?

[lowincash]

haha i thought the lower the gauge number means the thinner it is =P well i'll check radio shack and see what's the smallest/thinnest one they have. i was planning on cutting the white fog light wire and just use that connector thing and snap it onto the brown wire. hopefully that'll work. gonna try this weekend

[lowincash]

well i did it today i hooked it up to the parking lights...i used a different kind of connector thing but worked out ok. i also added a fuse just in case. not sure if it's needed but my friend says it's safer to add a fuse. tight squeeze in there but managed to finish =D thanks again for the write up gimmegimme

[ssoh5]

can anyone confirm that this mod works for 09 Matrix as well?also, for option 2, do i have to cut wire #2 when I splice onto the brown wire?thanks in advance

[gimmegimme]

Quote, originally posted by ssoh5 »can anyone confirm that this mod works for 09 Matrix as well?I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing it would.Quote, originally posted by ssoh5 »also, for option 2, do i have to cut wire #2 when I splice onto the brown wire?No, you do not need to cut the wire.

[ssoh5]

thanks for the reply, gimmegimme..so you mean, I just need to connect the wire 2 and wire 13...without cutting anything...right?sorry, my english is not that great, and also not an expert in electrical stuffs...

[gimmegimme]

Yes, that's exactly right.

[ssoh5]

I have done this mod today...It was dark at night underground parking lot, so it took me extra time, but in the end, it was all good.Used tap-in connector to clip two wires, and ..that was it.Thanks again gimmegimme!

[DressedInBlack]

since i am extremely not electronics inclined, i have the need to ask for the specifics of how to do "Option 2" without electrocuting myself and melting all the wires together.i am assuming that i need to make the two mentioned wires into an "H" by running a wire between the two? if that is even remotely close to the method, what supplies/parts do i need to do this?i know i know, this is probably very basic so go ahead and laugh. i am.

[gimmegimme]

The "H" is a good way of looking at it. Perhaps lowincash or ssoh5 could let us know what kind of connector they used. When I was doing the testing for this, I was just sticking a spare piece of wire I had into the plastic connector to join two wires together. Good enough for testing, but not even remotely secure. Hitting a bump would probably make the wire fall out.

[DressedInBlack]

Quote, originally posted by gimmegimme »The "H" is a good way of looking at it. Perhaps lowincash or ssoh5 could let us know what kind of connector they used. When I was doing the testing for this, I was just sticking a spare piece of wire I had into the plastic connector to join two wires together. Good enough for testing, but not even remotely secure. Hitting a bump would probably make the wire fall out.ok. kinda like a jumper? im sure there would be a way to secure that. i figured there were a few ways of doing this.thanks! and i would like to see the more "permanent" ways this has been done.

[DressedInBlack]

for Option #2, would T-taps work in this case or is a tap splice sufficient?i guess my biggest question is whether or not either wire comes out of the harness at all or both stay in the harness.

[gimmegimme]

Quote, originally posted by DressedInBlack »for Option #2, would T-taps work in this case or is a tap splice sufficient?i guess my biggest question is whether or not either wire comes out of the harness at all or both stay in the harness.Neither wire needs to come out of the harness. If a T-tap is all you've got, you could pull the white wire out of the harness. Do NOT pull out the brown wire though (that would cause issues with your lights).I'd prefer not pull out any wires at all to keep it easy to revert back to stock.

[DressedInBlack]

Quote, originally posted by gimmegimme »Neither wire needs to come out of the harness. If a T-tap is all you've got, you could pull the white wire out of the harness. Do NOT pull out the brown wire though (that would cause issues with your lights).I'd prefer not pull out any wires at all to keep it easy to revert back to stock.awesome. thanks!

[DressedInBlack]

ok i completed this mod using the tap-in squeeze connectors from Radio Shack.they are the red ones for 22 to 18-gauge wire, found right here! i just used two of them and a spare piece of wire i had in my tool cabinet, just like you had said earlier Gimmiegimmie. it didnt get too crowded in there at all. the only thing i wound up doing to help was cut some of the electrical tape holding the wire bundles together. everything went back to it's proper place just fine.thanks for your help Gimmiegimmie and J_TO.

[vibenvy]

Quote, originally posted by DressedInBlack »ok i completed this mod using the tap-in squeeze connectors from Radio Shack.they are the red ones for 22 to 18-gauge wire, found right here! i just used two of them and a spare piece of wire i had in my tool cabinet, just like you had said earlier Gimmiegimmie. it didnt get too crowded in there at all. the only thing i wound up doing to help was cut some of the electrical tape holding the wire bundles together. everything went back to it's proper place just fine.thanks for your help Gimmiegimmie and J_TO. You're welcome Geoff ! Glad to hear you got it figured out! So, how are you liking having full control over all the lights!?!

[Timmah]

I have a 2010 vibe and i performed the operation for option #2 but got the result of option #3

[gimmegimme]

Quote, originally posted by Timmah »I have a 2010 vibe and i performed the operation for option #2 but got the result of option #3That's odd... I noticed that your sig lists "fog lights stay on with high beams on" as one of your mods. How did you do that? Perhaps it is causing some side effects when combined with this mod?

[Fizgig]

So, we disabled the DRL using the instructions in this thread. We DID add a "reversal" switch so there would be no issues with state inspections. However we ran into an issue when combining this mod. with the fog lamp mod (options #2 & #4) in that when the mod. for the DRL is enabled (lights are off), the mod. for the the fog lamps no longer works (they revert to pre-mod. state). We did each mod. independently -- each has its own "kill" switch (3 prong switches, using only 2 prongs each) -- so if there are additional steps for them to work together, we missed those.

The Vibe is a 2009 GT.

Please advise... Also posting this in the mod. thread for the DRL mod.

[jaegems]

I have installed factory fog lamps on my 2009 Vibe that I purchased from GM online and had the dealer install a new proper multi function switch (a little above my comfort level) but the fog lights won't work. I have checked the fuses and bulbs but no luck. Any ideas?

[Beyerdynamic]

Hey guys! I want to perform the #2 fog mod. However I'm not sure I'm understanding how to go about splicing the two wires together while they are still connected. If someone could really dumb it down for me and explain the best way that would be awesome! (2009 vibe gt).