* 2003 Vibe Auto Satellite Silver w / Moons & Tunes
* Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597
* Polk DB651-Speakers
* Soundproofcow Roadblock R sound deadening in all doors
* Drop In K & N Filter
* NGK Iridium IX Plugs
* 27 MPG City/Highway with AC on
Quote, originally posted by cptnsolo77 »Have you considered the Polk DB series?or if you have the extra coin and the extra power to push, look into the Polk Momo series. i had them in my previous 2 cars and the sound is super clean. they are a bit pricey though.they ran 150 W rms/250 W peak versus the DB series (which is still frickin awesome) 125 W rms/250 W peak. i did need the extra 25 W so i could hear the highs and mids more clearly. a.k.a. "too much in the sub dept."
Quote, originally posted by DressedInBlack »or if you have the extra coin and the extra power to push, look into the Polk Momo series. i had them in my previous 2 cars and the sound is super clean. they are a bit pricey though.they ran 150 W rms/250 W peak versus the DB series (which is still frickin awesome) 125 W rms/250 W peak. i did need the extra 25 W so i could hear the highs and mids more clearly. a.k.a. "too much in the sub dept." Just a FYI, if you care.. The rated powers on a speaker have NOTHING to do with how much power "you want to push" you received ZERO extra power by using the MOMO's over the Db's.. I assure you.. The ratings you state, are nominal power handling values.. Db 125wrms/250wpeakMOMO 150wrms/250wpeakNeither mean ANYTHING to you if you aren't using an amplifier and even THEN, they mean very little.. Most people will NEVER push 150w into a speaker in their life.. The only thing you gained by using MOMO over the Db series is a better built system altogether.. A better woofer/tweeter/crossover... AFA one being louder than the other, not likely, not that you could tell.. in your car.. The resistance or OHM value of the speakers and the overall sensitivity (measured in Db 1w/1m) will play a MUCH bigger roll in how loud things get vs the amount of power given.. clifts notes: speaker rating means NOTHING to HOW much power you will get at a speaker.. If your HU is rated for 20w @4ohms, and your speakers are rated for 150rms/250peak (but 4ohms), you can bet your britches that they are only receiving 20w (at FULL volume) less at part volume.. Look back at sensitivity rating say 89db.. OR 89db with ONE WATT of input power measured with a mic, 1 METER from the speaker.. To raise volume 3db, you need to double input power to the speaker.. This is why 180db sound off vehicles are running 30kw+..!!!
i did have the speakers running at around 142 W constantly (give or take a few). i did have them amped as well.i had the system professionally tuned to the car via 3 $2000 microphones, a sound program from work to acoustically tune the system, and a sound engineer who is trained on the software to do all the programming. if he says i need it, i need it. i originally had a component system pushing around 110W but he and the computer said i needed more in that area or less in the sub area...im not saying you are wrong, im just saying in my case the extra juice was needed and made things better.