Do NOT do this...

[techren]

So, I was all excited to do the AUX input mod on my stereo and near the end got too excited and didn't think things through. I ran a sheet metal screw to hold bracket I made to keep the jack in place on the front of the stereo. I was lazy and didn't feel like taking the time to pull the faceplate off and I ended up trashing my faceplate PCB. I get the dumb a$$ award for the day. So does anyone have a stock head unit that they would be willing to sell cheap? CD player can be shot, Just need a new PCB for my faceplate.

Attached files

[ParknVibe]

What did you do, drill through the face or the metal case?Maybe you can repair the printed circuit board. Get a piece of flat ribbon wire from an old computer drive or your spare computer parts. You must have soldering knowhow. You also need a 25 watt pencil iron. with a fine tip. Try to bridge the wire over the damaged section. Check to make sure you did not cross short the printed lines. Sand off the protected green coating over the copper lines and tint the copper with solder. Watch that you do not bridge across the lines. If you can't do anything about it, then go shopping for a new radio at a major electronic store such as Best Buys.

[techren]

I drilled up from the bottom side of the metal case. Did it to mount a bracket to hold the AUX jack from being pushed back into the HU. If I had only damaged 1 or 2 traces I easily could have jumped them with some fine wire. However 8 traces got blown away in this act of shear genius.

[ParknVibe]

I would of mounted the input jack somewhere on the plastic dash panel outside of the radio. Your picture to me, seems to show that the circuit lines are parallel. Can you still see the images of the copper lines? Hole the board in front a of a light and you can see through it.

[lordvic]

I have my old stock 2006 vibe radio around here someplace. it's just the standard CD / AM / FM radio one. no mp3 or anything though.send me a PM if you're interested in buying it with whatever you're willin to pay, cover shipping and handling as well.

[Old Tele man]

...believe it or not, but a GOOD electronic technical can actually fix that by soldering little "jumper" wires across the abraded spot....who's the BEST technician in your town? Take it down to him and see what he says about cost and reliability.

[kmvibe]

I'll have my old stock head unit in a couple of days. I live in Lansing. Let me know if you're interested..

[techren]

I could definitely drive to Lansing to pick it up from you. How much would you want for it?

[kmvibe]

Nothing. I'll let you know when I have it. I'm in the process of moving the rest of my things to Lansing. I should have it by Tuesday or Wednesday.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by Old Tele man »...believe it or not, but a GOOD electronic technical can actually fix that by soldering little "jumper" wires across the abraded spot....who's the BEST technician in your town? Take it down to him and see what he says about cost and reliability.I used to do it ALL the time on HU's that burn up at the output IC, they'd usually blow the traces right off the board... You have most everything you need right there.. the traces are clean down to copper.. The BIGGEST thing you need is good liquid flux and a proper soldering iron.. (A HOT ONE) That's some real fine soldering there though.. lol.. I think I have my stock unit lying around somewhere..

[techren]

Yeah, I tried using single strands of copper wire to jump the gap but the area to work with is just too small even with my needle point iron tip. My last attempt to fix it consisted of longer pieces of small gauge insulated wire that ran from one side of the board to the other. Besides being ugly and messy I worried that it would not be reliable over time.

[Sublimewind]

If it works, all you need to do is hot glue it down..