Hitch Wiring

[tonyn1]

I now have a Curt 12228 hitch installed on my 09 AWD which, in spite of assurances from Curt that it would fit properly, hits against the muffler. I guess I'll just have to live with it. I need however, a wiring harness to connect a trailer. Which is the best one to use and the best price on one? I've seen that the Curt 56035 should fit my car, but it is almost $50. Any ones out there at a more reasonable price? Anybody adapted a generic one? Where does a harness exit the vehicle or can it all be done on the outside?

[Esteban]

I have a hitch on my 2010 & it doesn't hit the muffler. Mine is not AWD, but I couldn't live with it if it did . I first tried an inexpensive wiring kit & it was some labor to " wire " it in. I started having brake light problems. I got the kit you mentioned, & it was much easier to install, & works properly. I was told that the onboard computer could be damaged if I didn't use the right kit. Only problem with the kit is that you have to run a wire underneath the car to the battery. Keep it away from exhausts, suspension parts, steering parts, & it wasn't that hard. Works perfectly & I keep the end stored in the rear side compartment. Open the hatch, hook up leaving some excess wiring hanging out , & shut the hatch.

[tonyn1]

Quote, originally posted by Esteban » I have a hitch on my 2010 & it doesn't hit the muffler. Mine is not AWD, but I couldn't live with it if it did . I first tried an inexpensive wiring kit & it was some labor to " wire " it in. I started having brake light problems. I got the kit you mentioned, & it was much easier to install, & works properly. I was told that the onboard computer could be damaged if I didn't use the right kit. Only problem with the kit is that you have to run a wire underneath the car to the battery. Keep it away from exhausts, suspension parts, steering parts, & it wasn't that hard. Works perfectly & I keep the end stored in the rear side compartment. Open the hatch, hook up leaving some excess wiring hanging out , & shut the hatch.I don't see why one has to run a power wire back to the battery. All the wires necessary should be there at the rear wiring for the car: running, brake, and turn signal lights and one should have to just connect a trailer harness to the appropriate wires. I'm not sure what they are doing with the black box on the Curt unit. Who told you the computer could be damaged if you didn't use the right kit?

[beemerphile1]

Quote, originally posted by tonyn1 »I don't see why one has to run a power wire back to the battery. All the wires necessary should be there at the rear wiring for the car: running, brake, and turn signal lights and one should have to just connect a trailer harness to the appropriate wires. I'm not sure what they are doing with the black box on the Curt unit. Who told you the computer could be damaged if you didn't use the right kit?I don't know anything about damaging the computer but you do need to supply the power from the battery.The reason is the small gauge of the factory wiring, it is not designed for the additional load of the trailer lights. I used a plug-n-play kit that I ordered online but I don't remember the brand. The "black box" has relays in it so that the power draw is from the battery. Only the signal for activating the relays comes from the factory wiring.You could use a generic kit but why bother? Spend a few bucks, do it right, and do it once.When installing the kit I ran extra wires back from the front since I have brakes on my trailer and also have a charge line running to the trailer battery. I connected the wiring at the fuse block on the drivers side inner fender rather than directly to the battery. I also installed a relay and circuit breaker so that the system is activated when the ignition is turned on and the wires are protected by a self-resetting circuit breaker.I have wired a lot of vehicles for towing and the Vibe does not have heavy enough wires to directly power trailer lights.

[vibolista]

Are you saying that the wire size (gage) in a Vibe will is too small and will be damaged if you don't use power from the battery and that plug and play kit you ordered?

[beemerphile1]

Quote, originally posted by vibolista »Are you saying that the wire size (gage) in a Vibe will is too small and will be damaged if you don't use power from the battery and that plug and play kit you ordered?Unlikely the wires will be damaged. Most likely will cause fuses to melt and could melt wires if you replace the original fuses with larger fuses. The fuses are there to protect the wires. You don't have to use the plug in kit, it is just simpler than the generic kits and minimal increased cost.Even if the fuses don't open the trailer lights will be dim due to voltage loss over the length of the small wires.Trailer lighting also varies. Some utility trailers have very simple lighting. Other trailers like boats and campers have more lights. Maybe a utility trailer with only two lights could get away with it but you still will have a large voltage loss = dim lights on trailer.Bottom line is that modern vehicle wiring is not designed to power anything that doesn't come with the vehicle. Trucks and SUVs that are supplied with a tow package from the factory have relay controlled and fused extra trailer wires from the factory. My 09 Vibe was nearly $20,000 MSRP. It would be foolish to go cheap on a $50 wiring converter.

[Esteban]

EXACTLY

[djkeev]

How bad does it hit? If it is just a very minor rub and a quarter inch or so will fix it, well..... it sounds harsh but a well placed hammer blow creating a dent may just be the fix for the "rub". I don't often recommend such use of force but there are times it is the best and easiest way to go.Dave

[tonyn1]

Quote, originally posted by djkeev »How bad does it hit? If it is just a very minor rub and a quarter inch or so will fix it, well..... it sounds harsh but a well placed hammer blow creating a dent may just be the fix for the "rub". I don't often recommend such use of force but there are times it is the best and easiest way to go.DaveI can hear it bumping when I go over a bump. It is quite noticeable and annoying. I may do as you say and take a hammer to it.

[tonyn1]

Has anybody installed this harness with the power wire inside the vehicle? I have the harness installed, but do not have the power wire run under the car. It seems there is no really good way to run it up to the front underneath the vehicle, plus it seems rather vulnerable there. It seems it might be easier to run it under the trim above the doors on the drivers side. I think that's the way the rear light OEM harness is run.