My OEM battery finally crapped out on me this morning, 80,500 miles. This wasn't a surprise. I knew it was coming. Put a new battery in, and instantly the CEL came on. It was running a little rough, like it normally does when I disconnect the battery. When I gave it some throttle, it would wind up to 3500 rpms, then choke out and die. It is running really REALLY rich. Put a scanner on, and there is no codes. (removed)? It finally calmed down enough to be able to drive home, and the CEL went off. On the way home, the CEL came back on, I scanned it again, and no codes.Anybody have any ideas?
March 2011 MOTMFebruary 2010 MOTM My GenVibe garage
Disconnect the battery and press the brake for a few second... Then try again... The pressing of the brake drains down the ECU completely and it starts new ... If not that, hard to say at this point man.. Any chance you knocked a vacuum line lose?
I've double checked all the possible vacuum lines, sensors, and then some.I will try the brake pedal thing later today. I'm also going to change the spark plugs. It is just bizarre that this happens the same time the battery dies.
March 2011 MOTMFebruary 2010 MOTM My GenVibe garage
Awwwww....me thinks you should talk nicely to her and pat her on the hood...no more swearing at her.LOL...for the time being maybe you can borrow your little bro's fusion
Ok, this is a cute thread and all and I apologize for interrupting, but would you mind explaining if your car is performing well again? If so, what caused it to perform poorly, and what was done to fix it? If not, what have you checked so far and is your next step?
Quote, originally posted by joatmon »Ok, this is a cute thread and all and I apologize for interrupting, but would you mind explaining if your car is performing well again? If so, what caused it to perform poorly, and what was done to fix it? If not, what have you checked so far and is your next step?Intake manifold gasket?
2009 Jet Black 2.4L Auto / Fogs / 17" Alum / Clear Bra / Camry Leather Shift Knob / GT Rear Spoiler
2013 Polished Metallic Honda CR-V EX-L Navi
Started with a dead batter, then after replacing the battery it was running extremely rich. Replaced the intake manifold gasket. Ran great for about 3 minutes then started running rich again. 2 days after the intake manifold gasket, it finally threw a code. P0103 mass air flow high voltage. Replace the MAF, and now it is fine. Got many more details but I have to go take a final now. If you want the rest, let me know.
March 2011 MOTMFebruary 2010 MOTM My GenVibe garage
Interesting.Something that you often read and is infrequently followed is when ever you work on an auto electrical system to ALWAYS disconnect the Negative terminal first and to hook it up LAST. This avoids accidental shorts and other problems. Do you remember what order you followed when putting in the new battery? I just wonder if you might have given a voltage spike through the system somehow.It is also suggested to feed alternative voltage in through the lighter or power socket to power the memory function of the radio and the computer on board the car before you pull the battery or disconnect it.Dave
Quote, originally posted by lovemyraffe »Started with a dead batter, then after replacing the battery it was running extremely rich. Replaced the intake manifold gasket. Ran great for about 3 minutes then started running rich again. 2 days after the intake manifold gasket, it finally threw a code. P0103 mass air flow high voltage. Replace the MAF, and now it is fine. Got many more details but I have to go take a final now. If you want the rest, let me know.Didn't I say it may of been the MAF via PM?
2009 Jet Black 2.4L Auto / Fogs / 17" Alum / Clear Bra / Camry Leather Shift Knob / GT Rear Spoiler
2013 Polished Metallic Honda CR-V EX-L Navi
Quote, originally posted by djkeev »Interesting.Something that you often read and is infrequently followed is when ever you work on an auto electrical system to ALWAYS disconnect the Negative terminal first and to hook it up LAST. This avoids accidental shorts and other problems. Do you remember what order you followed when putting in the new battery? I just wonder if you might have given a voltage spike through the system somehow.It is also suggested to feed alternative voltage in through the lighter or power socket to power the memory function of the radio and the computer on board the car before you pull the battery or disconnect it.DaveI ALWAYS disconnect the negative first and reconnect it last, but there is still a chance that a voltage spike still went through. Quote, originally posted by ou.grizzly »Didn't I say it may of been the MAF via PM?Yes you did say it was the MAF, but we were unsure since the computer would not throw a code.After I put the battery in, it was acting like it was starving for fuel, but running rich. First I put in some new spark plugs, then my brother-in-law and I took some starting fluid and sprayed it around where the intake manifold connects to the engine block while the engine was running, and it started running better. We changed the intake manifold gasket (the old one had some residue on it) and I think this is when I messed up the MAF. I must have bumped the intake tube with the battery while I was taking the battery out. After we reassembled everything, my car was running fine for a few minutes, then just started acting the same (starving for fuel but running rich). We tried the intake manifold again with some starting fluid, but no change. The scanner wouldn't tell us anything. The car was in limp mode and wouldn't tell us anything. After a couple hours of fighting the car, testing the continuity of the throttle pedal position sensor, heated o2 sensor, 2nd o2 sensor, and looking at the service manual, we finally got a code out of it. P0103. If this code is present, the ECM will continue to run in limp mode until this code is taken care of. Put the new MAF in and cleaned the spark pugs and everything cleared up instantly.
March 2011 MOTMFebruary 2010 MOTM My GenVibe garage