So I tried to remove the front grille to get to the horn...when I tried to unscrew those three "screws," I realized they weren't screws at all, they were like plastic things that are just kinda stuck in there...I can't seem to get them out though...how do they come out? They don't unscrew, do they pull out or what?
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
I haven't looked at mine but they are probably push-rivets. It's a 2-part plastic rivet that secures lots of parts on the car. It's a plastic circle with a plastic ring around it. Pull the center circle out slightly and then pull on the ring portion and the whole thing comes out. The reverse to to install the rivet with the center circle up and then push the center portion down. It's hard to describe in words but easy to see once you do it.
Ahhh.....they trick me by putting an indentation for phillips head screwdrivers on the head. Damn those toyota engineers. I'll give that a shot, thanks!
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
I just went out and looked at mine. They are slightly different from the rivets I told you about in the previous post. These rivets appear to unscrew the center portion instead of just being pulled up however, once the center portion is up, the whole thing then pulls out like the other rivets do. Unscrew untill it stops backing out then just pull it out.
unscrew it and try to push it up from under it at the same time, the grill is two parts and connects to everything. u have to tug on the front face mask to get it free and unclick it from the sides.
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POST REVIVAL!I'm amazed nobody has posed this question since 2002, but here goes. I am trying to remove the grilles on my 2006 Abyss, and I ran into a snag (PUN TOTALLY INTENDED). Those three plastic pin-like "screw" fasteners are giving me grief. How do you get those off? Do you have to squeeze the plastic portions together underneath that expanded after they were installed, or can you simply just pull up on them? I successfully got all the inner tabs to slide out of the way of the grilles, plus I removed the rubber stoppers close to the headlights, but those three "fasteners" in the middle are killin' me. Mainly because I don't want to massacre any of those plastic parts by pulling on them like a caveman.Blanco Diablo is going to look into this for me, but I thought I would also throw it out there to everyone, in case others need the knowledge.Thanks, Vibers!
I totally mutilated them just to get them out. I've never bothered getting new ones either. I have not noticed any rattles or anything associated without having them in. Now it only taked me about 5-10 minutes to remove the front bumper instead of the 45 minutes trying to deal with those pieces of crap!
April 2010 Co-MOTM * Custom LED Gauge Cluster swap * LED dome, HVAC, and shifter * Retrofit projector w/ blue halo * Kenwood KDC-HD942U * Herculined cargo area * Debadged *Wolfman's Garage
OK, at least I wasn't crazy. Maybe use the screw driver idea up top and needle-nose pliers to "pinch" the bottom of the fastener, so as to get them back through the way they went in?I'm painting the grilles, and I was trying to avoid any troubles with breaking those things. Looks like I might be keeping my black zip ties around, just in case.Thanks, folks.
I've painted my grille twice and removed my bumper countless times. Haven't broken those screws yet. push them up while you unscrew and you shouldn't have any problems
Quote, originally posted by bull77 » push them up while you unscrew and you shouldn't have any problems +1 These things are a p.i.t.a. but can be conquered. I experienced the same thing and I mutilated some before I figured out the trick. I didn't break all of them and haven't had any rattles from the front end.
March 2011 MOTMFebruary 2010 MOTM My GenVibe garage
They are the screw pins. You have to unscrew with light pressure while pulling up a bit. Then they pop and you can pull out the tab. I've dealt with them on the Matrix in some spots.
Awesome, guys. Even easier than I thought. I shall keep the needle-nosed pliers sheathed. I guess my next question is, if I am painting AND clear-coating once I get these suckers off... ...how many times should I expect to re-paint these over the years? How does the paint hold up? I took Blanco Diablo's advice and got "Krylon for Plastic" spray paint. Then, a Dupli-Color clear coat.
Quote, originally posted by jkm311 »...how many times should I expect to re-paint these over the years? How does the paint hold up? I took Blanco Diablo's advice and got "Krylon for Plastic" spray paint. Then, a Dupli-Color clear coat.I used the same paint products --- I did my 1st paint job last spring but after a full winter there was some peeling paint. It wasn't really noticeable unless you got close but I went ahead and repainted about a month ago.This time I put more applications of both paint and clear so we'll see how it holds up this winter.
Same thing I just used, although no clear Also, I wouldn't recommend using it as a base coat for other projects like in my other thread. Live and learn I guess lol
April 2010 Co-MOTM * Custom LED Gauge Cluster swap * LED dome, HVAC, and shifter * Retrofit projector w/ blue halo * Kenwood KDC-HD942U * Herculined cargo area * Debadged *Wolfman's Garage
Cool. I wonder if my incessant "clearing of snow" on the grille area and headlights with my mini corn broom (seriously, it's barely three feet tall) will accelerate the paint chipping this winter.Might have to be a bit more delicate. Or, do what you did, Bull, and put that extra coat on!