Brand New Vibe - Best practices?

[NoviDriver]

I just purchased a 2009 Vibe GT. This is my first brand new car so I want to treat it right so it will treat me right! For those who have owned Vibes, any recommendations for maintenance besides what's outlined in the user manual (or what would you do different than what's in the manual?) I'm in Michigan so this will include winter weather exposure in 6 months.Thanks!

[jake75]

Quote, originally posted by NoviDriver »I just purchased a 2009 Vibe GT. This is my first brand new car so I want to treat it right so it will treat me right! For those who have owned Vibes, any recommendations for maintenance besides what's outlined in the user manual (or what would you do different than what's in the manual?) I'm in Michigan so this will include winter weather exposure in 6 months.Thanks!You mean in 3 months!

[tribalman]

get 2 sets of tires, a good summer and a good winter. this a biggie. i don't think i'll ever own another car without having two sets of tires, unless the all seasons step up their quality. other than that don't take the car anywhere untrusted if you need to do maintenance, or just do it yourself.and it isn't in the manual, but don't change anything that has not broken from normal wear and tare. such as: stereo, speakers, lights, performance, i'm talking anything. once you start you won't stop. i'm trying to build up enough money to start on performance stuff. i have most of the other stuff done visually that i want.welcome!

[jake75]

Quote, originally posted by tribalman »and it isn't in the manual, but don't change anything that has not broken from normal wear and tare. such as: stereo, speakers, lights, performance, i'm talking anything. once you start you won't stop. i'm trying to build up enough money to start on performance stuff. i have most of the other stuff done visually that i want.welcome!I won't - perfectly content with it the way it was born. Many other things I'd rather spend my money on.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by jake75 »I won't - perfectly content with it the way it was born. Many other things I'd rather spend my money on.Some are, some aren't... Content that is... lol.. I agree 100000% with tribalman on the snow tires... I'm a Michigander as well and I was terrified with my first few trips down the highway snow tire-less.... I came out of an AWD Subaru on snow tires and well, there really is nothing better in the snow in my eyes... I miss my AWD.. lol.. The vibe does pretty good with cheaper snow tires, but not nearly as good as the Subie did.... I would suggest a mid-level quality/priced snow tire.. get a set of "take off" steel wheels, and you can make the swap in less than an hour in the driveway... you keep the stock wheels nice for summer, and you 1/2 the wear on BOTH sets, as you only use them 1/2 the year.. Trust us, it's an investment in safety... there isn't a A/S tire in the world that can hold a flame to a snow tire in the snow.... period... I often get called the STG, or snow tire guy... lol.. Welcome to GV BTW...!!!

[NoviDriver]

What would you recommend for a snow tire?

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by NoviDriver »What would you recommend for a snow tire? Well, if you want the BEST snow tire, I recommend the Bridgestone Blizzak.. It's simply amazing what it can do on snow and ICE.... The problem with the blizzak is that they wear quickly, on dry pavement and when temps get warm... But, the confidence they provide is incredible.. I'm using bottom of the barrel "Winterforce" snow.. IIRC they are FireStone... not sure... They do well, but not nearly as well as the Blizzaks i've owned... I drive a lot of highway miles, so the Blizzak wasn't my first choice... If you drive in the city a lot, with lots of black ice and all, Blizzaks.. I consider snow tires cheap insurance, if I hadn't mentioned that before..

[pljenkins]

In answer to your original question, the Vibe has proven to be a pretty bulletproof car. Just keep up with the maintenance schedule and take care of the paint and she'll outlast you!P. 03 base just turned 130K and running stronger then the day I bought her!

[djkeev]

Hi,Congrats on your new car! I'd suggest running the factory oil until the first oil change and at that point put in a synthetic motor oil and run that. Keep up the suggested oil change interval but you'll spend more on the oil. There is no doubt that the synthetics will cause far far less wear than dino oil will. Some will say it isn't worth the money but time and several cars over many years have proven to me that it is worth the extra expense. Even if you miss a oil change at just the right miles you know that you are still being lubed way better than old dino oil ever could.IF you aren't going to keep the car for a long period of time, just use normal dino oil, it will do a fine job for modest time and mileage.Wash it, wax it. The "older" cars have a reputation for paint "issues". I don't know if they changed anything for the next generation or not.Good LuckDave

[goochsmooch]

Just like the paint, the plastic paneling in the cargo area is delicate and easy to scratch up. I had a couple kegs of beer rolling around back there on a trip to the mountains and it did a number on the plastic - lots of white scratches. Don't worry though boys, the kegs came out just fine!+1 on regular oil changes, synthetic (if you can afford it) and good snow tires. One last thing, since you live in a cold climate, use a block heater on those nasty nights and let it warm up for a couple minutes before you take off.

[TONY TAT2]

Silicone the rubber around all the doors & hatch,it sucks tryen to pull open the doors when their frozen. I would forget on my old Trans Sport then "snap" I would break another door handle.Invest in a pressure washer,the electric jobs do fine & are only around 100 bucks,I pressure wash the cars undercarriage every spring. If you rotate your own tires a little bit of "Anti-Sieze" on the threads works wonders.Keep the wheel weels clear of built up ice/snow. Wake up early in bad weather so your not in a rush,I give myself a hr to get to work altho it's only a 16 mile drive . I leave a little earlier in bad weather. Welcome & enjoy your new Vibe !

[beemerphile1]

Quote, originally posted by TONY TAT2 »...If you rotate your own tires a little bit of "Anti-Sieze" on the threads works wonders...Never, ever use any lube or anti-seize on wheel lugs. You will stretch the bolts and weaken them eventually resulting in failure. I have seen it myself and all experts agree.

[TONY TAT2]

I guess I've been wrong since the 60'sdo you also believe in Global Warming ?that came from a Panel of x'perts

[beemerphile1]

Bolt torque specifications are always for clean, dry, non-lubed fittings unless otherwise noted. The fact that you have done it for 40 years does not make it safe, or make it good advice. I have personally witnessed stretched wheel lugs that failed because they were lubed. I choose to trust the engineers that write the specifications.

[TONY TAT2]

NOYou seen stretched studs b'cause there was a Idiot on the wrench 4 sake of further,don't use it

[star_deceiver]

#1 tip: Don't let "hand talkers" bring drinks or food into the car!!! EVER!!!!As for neverseeze or lube on the threads.... just use a torque wrench and don't forget to re-torque every now and then. With or without lube, a properly torqed lug nut shouldn't come loose.

[beemerphile1]

You're missing the point. If a lubed fitting is torqued to the correct setting by the best mechanic in the world with the best torque wrench in the world, it will be drastically OVER TORQUED due to the lube. The lube or never-seize causes the torque wrench to read incorrectly and over torque the fitting.

[tribalman]

if you do lube or anti-seize the lugs you don't torque them on to the normal amount. instead of 78 like normal, you do it to 40 or something. i'll see if i can find the link from here.

[NoviDriver]

A question on oil changes. In the past, I've either done it myself or had my local mechanic do it. But I noticed when I was looking at used (before I finally decided on new) that some Dealers are tracking maintenance so that it appears in Autocheck and Carfax reports. I know I can keep my paperwork but someone won't see that while checking online. I have to admit that when I saw a car with a regular maintenance record in Autocheck, it did get a second look over one that did not. Worth paying the extra cost to have the dealer do it for this kind of paper trail?

[star_deceiver]

I'll pay the same and change the oil myself with synthetic, just keep the reciepts. And since the Pontiac dealer here is the cheapest place to buy the oil filter for the 1.8, you've got a GM reciept! Not too concerned about re-sale value as, with the Sunfire, the km's are going to rack up very fast! It doesn't matter how old or young the car is or how/what maintenance was done; looks, mileage, and warranty (in that order) are tops in the used car buyers (especially Women buyers - no offence...) minds! If the Wife don't like it, I'm not buying it!

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by TONY TAT2 »NOYou seen stretched studs b'cause there was a Idiot on the wrench 4 sake of further,don't use itYep the idiot behind the wrench, that thinks the torque spec stays the same when lube or antiseize is used, sure... one can easily see here... http://www.portlandbolt.com/te....htmlLook at the difference in torque for a plain and "waxed" bolt... on a waxed bolt spec is 1/2 or more of the plain...

[lovemyraffe]

Welcome!

[Kincaid]

I haven't crawled under the car yet. Is the filter in a 2009 easy to access? Does it lay on its side or is it upright?About 10 years ago I said fvck it to changing my oil myself - got so tired of oil dripping down my arm, splashing on my concrete, etc. But, I'd like to switch to synthetic and extend the interval.Any advice on this aspect?

[star_deceiver]

1.8 or 2.4???

[Kincaid]

Mine is the 2.4. Someone posted a pic in another thread but I couldn't tell which end was up, lol.

[star_deceiver]

http://www.japparts.com.au/pro...h.jpg I posted a pic of the 1.8 in another thread, this link is for the 2.4. If you crawl under the front of your car I believe that there is a cover with a round hole to make removal of the oil filter extra fun! Passenger side, front, between the rad and oil pan.

[MotoXdog]

Quote, originally posted by Kincaid » I'd like to switch to synthetic and extend the interval.Any advice on this aspect?If you don't want to do it yourself, you can buy whatever flavor of oil you want and take it somewhere (dealer or quick lube place) and they will just charge you for the labor (usually btwn $15 & $20).Just by using synthetics, doesn't always mean you can extend your drain time. The oil manufacturer should have THEIR recommendation on their oil container (example - Amsoil has oils guaranteed to last 7500, 25K or 35K miles btwn changes - & can go longer using oil analysis((as with other oils as well)). I will be using oil analysis to determine EXACTLY what's going on with both my oil & the engine.

[Kincaid]

I'm thinking I'll do the same - change it myself, use Mobil 1, and do the analysis. I'm also expecting I'll be able to change the filter and just top up the oil at least once on my way to 10k+ miles.