when sound deadening the doors should i do the outter most thin metal layer, ( very difficult seeing as there are only small holes to reach the inside. And I know i need to do the inner layer, thats a give in.
Yes... What are your plans young Skywalker? I have answers.. Sound deadening gives the sound something to work against... I like to use my coffee can analogy... Take an empty coffee can and tap it with a pen.. talk into it... Harsh and "ringy"... Now, fill it half way with water.... try again... you just effectively sound deadened the coffee can.. How far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? lol.. Red or blue pill??? Some of the OLD interior shots of my Subie, while I was doing the first phase of deadening... lol.. I just completed 95% of the 3rd phase.. lol.. Before you decide on anything, arm yourself with this.. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/For some reason, it's NOT the SDS that I once knew? It's changed into something different? not as comparative of different products.. strange... It'll still help.. But yes, lol... you want some deadener on both the inner and outer door (I have 3-4 layers in the areas of the speaker)
Quote, originally posted by cp_stunna_2011 »isnt that a pain in the *** to put it on the inner door though?I had cuts AND bruises from doing it, for weeks... so YES, it's a major PITA... It's a labor of love though... I mean, you stick a speaker through the hole and the only thing the sound coming off the back has to work against is that thin outer door metal... well you know it doesn't take much to get that stuff moving (coffee can) that's why it's suggested yo do at least SOME behind the speaker and some around it... Both surfaces will resonate... Adding the sound deadener lowers that resonant frequency to something lower in the hearing range.. at lower frequencies our ears are less particular, so if you shift it down there, we notice it less, that and lower frequencies need more energy to propagate.. ..