My friend bought a base model 09 vibe. The only option is A/C. His free XM radio is over and he wanted me to install a new system for him. I had him get 2 cadence amps, some CDT components, an eclipse head unit, and an MB Quart sub. When he got the dash install kit he got one without a wiring harness, so I told him he would at least need to get an antenna adapter, so he might as well get a wiring kit that comes with one.He went to Best Buy and they said that they had one for $21 but it wasn't the right one?!? not really sure. Then he said that he went to a local car stereo install place and they told him $240 for the harness. I'm thinking he was asking for the wrong thing, either that or they were trying to rip him off.Does anyone have a diagram or list of which wires are for what for an 09 vibe. I saw a write up for up to an 08. Something like that would work. Or, if anyone know what harness is needed and can give me the part number that would be great. I'd love to just use the harness so that I don't have to cut his off to hard wire everything in, but if it's not available locally, I'll have to, because I'll be doing everything sat and sunday.Any help would be greatthanks in advance.
Holy crap... I did some searching, and found this:http://www.installer.com/cars/...=6012If that's the right kit it's like $127-$140. I'm not sure what's all integrated into the 09's stereo...Man, I'd hope since you're adding seperate amps you could just hook up power / light dimmer and then RCA to the amps and forget about the rest of the mess... I'm guessing you are going to re-wire the speakers as well since you're using seperate amps.
Yeah, all I need is rear speaker wires (not replacing those speakers and running old ones off head unit), power, acc, remote, ground. I think that's it. dim would just be a plus. I just don't want to mess anything up if something still needs to be connected that's integrated. I've been reading about it and the on star is integrated, and he doesn't care about that. Also, he doesn't care about door chimes.
There's a couple of guys here that will probably be able to chime in and help better than I can. I don't know anything about the 09's setup and honestly never really bothered to look into it, I couldn't imagine walking into this thinking it would be like any of the 1000 installs I've done in the past (back 10 years ago) and come up with the first thing being a $100+ wiring harness... (I can understand why because of all the integration but still that sucks) Good luck!
Thanks, yeah, I've done a few installs, but the newest car was a 97 riviera, lol. The only problems I ever had were with the riviera, I lost all of my steering wheel controls putting in the new stereo. I knew I'd lose the ones that pertained to the stereo, but GM was stupid and had the HVAC controls going through the factory head unit as well, so I lost those too
Depending on his Vibe one of these would work If he has a non-amplified system and wants to keep onstarhttp://retailer.installationex...23248If he has an amplified factory system http://retailer.installationex...23248If he has a non amplified system from the factory and does not want to keep onstar he can use http://retailer.installationex...23248orhttp://retailer.installationex...23248The difference between the 2 harnesses is the second one would be needed if he was doing an in dash nav. setup because it has the VSS, e-brake, and backup wires incorporated. The above harnesses can be used to bypass the factory amp in an amplified system but you would have to buy a bypass plug in addition to the harness. The antenna adapter will need to be bought separate from the harness.Chances are when the shop gave the quote for the harness it also included the install kit, and the antenna adapter, but there's always a chance the salesman was trying to price gougeThe ones in Kamikaze's link are the ones I referenced in the first 2 links I posted.P.S. I will be making a diagram thread for the 09s I just haven't gotten around to it yet, I would also highly advise against cutting the plugs, ESPECIALLY the plugs in newer cars as there is a lot of information tied to radios now days and one bad connection could be bad.Aron
Vibe is gone and will be missed as I've gone country style
so, this harness would work if I didn't want to keep on-star? http://www.sonicelectronix.com...oogle It says to keep on-star, but it's the same number you listed to not retain on-star. $55 isn't bad.
God I hate On-Star... Big brother IS watching YOU.. Duster, I live ~40mi from you and until about 2.5mo ago, worked at Corning.. !! I may be able to help possibly, if needed.. I've got everything needed (tools/knowledge wise) and in fact and doing a SERIOUS install in my Subaru ATM.. Nice to see you pointed him toward Cadence amps... It'll be a sad day when everyone realizes the value in them...!!! What are you guys doing for wiring? If you haven't yet, have him look at Kicker wire kits... AMAZING for the money...!! (cough cough fleabay) Any sound deadening going in with the install??? A little bit, could help a LOT... especially near the mids..
We got a knuconceptz wiring kit. We got the front speakers installed today (CDT's). We were going to put deadener in but we were on a budget, so maybe another time. Rather than cutting the old speaker apart to mount the new ones, we built some baffles out of 1/2" MDF. It doesn't look bad, and the door panel surprisingly still fit . I'll post pics later of it. We're probably going to order the $55 stereo wiring harness that I posted. He's going to call and ask about it. It's the same place that he got his Metra dash kit.That's pretty sweet that you don't live very far away, I'll let you know if we need any help with it.Thanks for the help and Thanks for welcoming me to the forum.
here's a pic of the mdf baffle, and one of the speakers installed. My friend wanted a stock install, so I went with component CDT's with a center mount tweeter. The cross over is stuck to the inside of the door with 3M industrial double sided tape.
No problem on the help..... My GF was just making fun of my sizable post count.. lol.. It's what I do.. lol.. First thing i'm going to help you with is your spacers.. MDF will NOT due here, it's too wet.. It'll be a few months and then things will start happening... bad things.. trust me on this one, been down that road, and I covered mine really well in paint.. Do both of you a favor and hit a dollar store or walmart and pick up some cheap cutting boards and have at it... Perfect waterproof spacer material.. cheap to.. So far so good..!!Oh, you said Knu Concepts.. which fuse holder are you putting under the hood? Is it a AGU fuse (large glass tube)?
Yeah, it's an AGU fuse holder. I was thinking the MDF would be fine right there, the door panel is pretty sealed. I know most cars put a barier in behind the speaker to keep water and everything from hitting it, but this one had nothing, so I figured it would be fairly dry down there, especially since the oe speaker was cardboard (cone and surround).
We shall see I suppose... I bet those speaker cones are treated so they don't soak water.. OK, get some "camp dry" (Silicone spray) and hose them down.. lol.. On the Knu AGU fuse holder, just a FYI, I've seen those fuse holders MELT down on a number of occasions.. Specifically the Knu ones.. It might be a consideration to try and get a different one.. maybe one with a MAXI or a mini-ANL fuse.. (why I mentioned Kicker wire kits)
ah, is it any constellation if it's a 0 gauge kit and we're putting a smaller fuse in it? You think it might be able to withstand the loads better?With the MDF, if it does fall apart, I'll just make something like what you suggested. The way it's setup you could probably fit some decent size speakers in the door. The opening is 6" and that would be back away from where the speaker is mounted. 8's anyone?!? lol
have a look at Audiovibes install post.. !! He's doing a 3 way front with 8's.. ! Audiovibe easily has the best system, that we(I) know of, in a vibe... hands down... He's doing a full re-design on it right now.. AFA the fuse holder, if it's the big glass tube fuse, you do not want... If it is anything else like an ANL, MIDI, or MAXI, you are golden..ANLMIDI (Mini ANL)MAXI Now, have you guys considered doing "The Big 3" under the hood (upgrading grounds) ?? it'd be a REALLY good idea... Cheers.!!!
So, what are you driving and you rockin a system as well?? You know i'm gonna want to hear your friends car when your done.. lol.. I've been doing this for a LONG time now... I always enjoy hearing a different car.. I spend a LOT of time in audio forums too.... far to much my GF says..
My bad, it's a mini anl fuse holder. It came with a 120a, but we need to replace it with an 80a. I don't know why I was thinking it was the glass type.We thought about upgrading the alternator and the wiring, but I didn't think the two amps would be enough to sap the alternator. His car is bone stock, so there won't be much else pulling power. I'm also thinking that all Vibes, regardless of options, will have the same alternator, because it would be cheaper for pontiac to do that. Therefor the alternator will be higher output than he needs.I have too many cars to put a lot of money into the system of one of them. I own 2x 1987 Chrysler Conquest TSi's (one is being restored, the other is kinda a parts car), a 1973 datsun 240Z (near mint with 2.8L, 280zx turbo head, high output ignition plugs and wires, and converted back to dual carbs to look stock), 1972 datsun 240Z parts car, 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT, and just bought a 1997 Riviera with 3800sc in it last august.I got into car audio back before I really knew anything about it. Right now I have a mini semi-crappy system in my riviera, it started in my fiero and conquest and all of the parts made there way to the riviera. Had I known back then what I know now, I wouldn't have bought any of it.The head unit is a Pioneer DEH P5800MP (not bad, cds are starting to stick though), front stage are cheap 5.25 Quantum Q52 comps (nice crisp and clear tweeters, but the mids suck), Those are powered by a cheapo Formula MACH-5231 4-channel (was gonna add a second front stage with 8's powered by the other 2 channels but decided I'll just rebuild the whole system), sub is an 8" MB Quart Reference powered by a Scosche 2 channel amp. The only part I like is the sub and I wish I would have gotten a bigger one lol.I already built some new pieces to mount to my riviera door so that I can mount 6.5" comps instead of 5.25's. I'm just waiting on the money to buy a nice set of 6.5/1's and a nice amp to power them. Then I'll have to cut off part of my door panel, because the original speakers mounted to it and I'd rather they mounted to the door for a more solid fit.
Mini-ANL, ahhh good then, you will be fine with the 120A fuse BTW... it's there to protect the car, not the amps.. But yeah, as long as it's not the glass ones... For some reason, they tend to be higher resistance, with the fuse link soldered to the end-caps or something, so they create heat, melt out the solder and it becomes even HIGHER resistance and creates even MORE heat, and melts.. (my theory, i've seen at least 6 melted down, in 3-4yrs) No prob on the pics.. I love the 240 and the Conquests.. but really, that 240.. wow.. I love to see that built one day.. built well.. with maybe a red top under the hood.. lol.. No, i'm not on CA(well, I am, but I'm never "on"), I'm usually on DIYMA.. but i'm quickly tiring of that.... You mentioned money for gear, dude, have I got something for you... Have a look at the Phenix Gold RSD line... I'm serious as a heart attack, people love them, and when you start seeing prices, you'll wonder if/how it could be possible.. lol.. I gave my GF's dad a set for his 77' Vette he just got out of paint.. I payed 80$ for'em.. lol..
ah, gotcha. Well I knew that you needed a fuse at each link (by battery, where power splits, and at amps) just figured it needed to be the same as the amps.Yeah, I've heard some good things about the Phoenix Gold RSD Line, and maybe I should just go with them and a sundown or cadence amp. I was thinking about dropping a 2JZ DETT in the 240Z, but the stock look is nice, plus I'm going to be building the fiero up for performance shortly and I wanna keep the datsun basically stock. I have the original motor in storage right now.With the fiero I planned out a custom dash, custom widebody kit for offset tires (9" front, 10" back is what I was thinking, still not sure yet), 3800sc intercooled with 3.4" sc pulley and a few other things, and upgraded suspension with vette 12" brakes. I was thinking tt northstar, but I like how the 3800 fits better.
If the amps have fuses, you don't need any between the battery fuse and the amps, a simple non-fused distribution block would suffice.. The 120A fuse just protects the car in case the wire gets pinched in a accident or something... and in that case, the 120A would blow in short order.. You wouldn't be interested in another Fiero would you? My GF's brother is trying to sell his.. <1k$ I think.. it's got clutch master cylinder issues right now, so you can't disengage the clutch..
No problem, thought i'd ask, you guys usually hord them.. lol.. AFA running the wires, not sure, never done an amp install in a Vibe, I would assume much like anything else.. grommet under dash somewhere, wires along door sills... I just got a bunch of wiring cleaned up in the kickpanels/rockers of my Subie.. moving forward again on the install... got the passenger side floor covered in Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro last night
Nice, wish I could afford to even just do the doors on my riviera. They're like over 3 feet long though, plus I don't know how well it works if the speakers don't even mount to the door.My friend was wondering about alternators as well. We don't know if he'll need one yet, but just in case, where's a good place to get a higher output alt and bracket?I know that for my conquest there's a GM alternator that's like $140 and it's a 120A that they use, would the vibe be able to use this. Also, what is the amperage on the stock alt? I know I could probably just look most of this stuff up, but I'm getting ready for a softball game and after that game I'm supposed to meet up with him to tune the car.Also, the knukonceptz wires were a mazing, especially for the price. $47 for a 4-channel 4 gauge kit. Very flexible, very sturdy wires.
It doesn't take a HUGE amount of sound deadener to reap the benefits.. 40% coverage would net a big decrease in overall noise floor.. AFA an alt, have him look at Maniac Electric Motors, I just got a 140A for my Subie.. for ~200$ I think the factory is like 70-90A or something.. Again, 09' I don't know.. Hmm... 47$ for a 4awg 4ch wire kit with mini-anl fuse holder, not bad at all.. Cheers..
okay, will do. Have 75A worth of fuses across my amps and no visible dimming of the lights The Eclipse 3100 has terrible adjustability from what Iv'e seen so far. I need to read the manual so that I can find some other controls. The manual is like a book yet it has fewer controls than my dehp5800mp which had a thin manual :/
Hmm I thought the 3100 was more user friendly..I had a 7200 for about a month, had it in the car for about 5 days and played it for 10min.. lol.. I moved on quickly... lol..
he's thinking about upgrading to the alpine 9886. My DEHP5800MP had an integrated SW button, it had more equalizer options. I could adjust three frequencies, adjust the frequency of each of those (3 options), then it had bass and treble and you could adjust the frequencies for each of those. Can't find anything like that for his.