NB replaced with WB, AF+, AF- connection?

[4azdmunky]

I replaced my NB O2 with a WB02 from PLX (http://www.plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLXApp004.pdf)After following the directions, I still get a P2238 CEL. Looking over the repair schematics, it looks like AF+ and AF- connect inside the O2 sensor on either side of a "sensor", and the ECU measures the delta between the two pins, however neither pin are grounded. What would I need to do to close the loop and not have the ECU freak out over what it sees as a missing O2 sensor? Right now it reads 0V for bank1 sensor1.

[kevera]

I have a PLX gauge.Now,just to clear things up,why did you hook this up like that.It's seems to complicate things.To me it would have been easier to install another bung in your x-haust and then use the anolog outputs from the gauge into your EMU.BTW,the controller should have the ground(you have the controller,right?),and did you use the resistor.

[4azdmunky]

I needed a WB for autotuning the Emanage Blue, and since the PLX has a NB output, and directions on how to repalce the NB with WB, it sounded like a no cost win/win situation. So far everything works fine, except for the P2238 issue.

[kevera]

I would have went the easy way and installed a bung,and use the anolog outputs with a af cable plugged into the yellow plug on your Blue.I have Ultimate and have it plugged into my optional port(yellow) to use my wideband gauge's output to auto-tune.Works great.

[kevera]

Quote, originally posted by kevera »BTW,the controller should have the ground(you have the controller,right?),and did you use the resistor.You never answered the question.

[4azdmunky]

Oh sorry I missed that.Coming off the AFR box, I have the NB signal going to AF+ and I have the WB signal going to the top row of the right plug, third hole from the left, going into the Emanage. I found a picture on another forum where that pin (which BTW is also yellow) was tapped and it left the boost port open for other use. I then tied the boost gauge sensor box (again PLX) to the Emanage via the boost port. After doing this, the car ran A LOT better and had more power and pickup.For the heater wires, I left the old O2 sensor hanging off to the side, and cut the white and blue wires.I have nothing tapping the AF- pin on the ECU, its an open circuit.So, should I run AF- to the bottom right (ground) of the analog port of the PLX AFR box? or should I use the 3.3V output?

[4azdmunky]

Well I'm giving up and swapping back to the stock NB. I ordered a new Magnaflow cat, and will have them weld on extra bungs when they weld the rest of the exhaust.

[kevera]

That's probably the smartest thing to do.Then you have 2 options for the auto tune feature.If you have a boomslang,you can go off the analog outputs from that(splice into it),and buy an a/f cable that plugs into the eManage.Or you can go off the analog output of your wideband a/f gauge.Both steps are way easier than the route you were going before.

[satur9]

if you check http://www.newcelica.org. youll find that toyotas ecu's hate narrow band emulations from widebands. they almost never work without a cel i think it has to do with the reading rate.. but on other cars works fine. it cost like 25 bucks to get a bung welded in at your local muffler shop.keep the wideband.

[4azdmunky]

Originally I was thinking it would have been easier with less things to fail by consolidating to one less sensor. I read somewhere on a Tundra forum where a guy built his own electrical O2 sensor simulator, and i guess that worked, but that sounds like it has a higher possibility for failure.Oh well, its off the welding shop this next weekend.