Aftermarket Sub Eclosure Idea's on 03 Trunk

[dmsween]

I just ordered a Pioneer TS-SW2541D 10" 4-ohm Shallow Subwoofer, got it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-...YB8OO. I have a Pioneer 6500 for a stereo.I have been reading through these 2 threads:Audiovibes: http://forums.genvibe.com/zero...age=2Briantforce: http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=32840 I like how both of these turned out (Good job Aron and Brian!) If you guys have any more pictures of how you build the enclosures (Aron yours looks like you made rings of mdf and Brian used the plastic tub thats currrently in there.)I have an old 4 channel amp that I'm going to try to use (can select 4/2//1 channel).I just looking for some description of your guys enclosure and any advice from putting in your systesms like.1. Running power wire through the firewall (8ga / 4ga & easiest spot)2. How you ran power / rca wires through the car. (length of wires, etc.)3. Best spot to ground the amp in the back.And anything else you guys want to throw in.

[Merzbow]

Hey I'm not Aron or Brian lol but I can help. 4 gauge would be best and it there is a spot on the driver's side of the firewall just behind the strut tower I believe that you can squeeze it through. You can run the RCAs and the power wire under the bottom door sills. Just lift up all the plastic pieces and unclip the harness underneath and it should all fit. I have two sets of wires under there for both my amps. You can run the speaker wires under the reaer door sills and then fold the rear seats down partially and you'll find it is fairly easy to get the wires under the seats without taking them off. They will pop up in the rear underneath the compartments.Our cars are pretty easy compared to most as far as concealing wires is concerned!

[dmsween]

Thanks for the tips on the wires and rca cables. That is a crazy setup, I'm sure it kicks like you couldn't believe. I throw stuff in my car way too often and want to be able to have a sub in there and forget about it. Nice job on all that though. Bike looks nice too. I need to move south so I can ride year long.

[Sublimewind]

Being that you bought the shallow mount, you might consider making or having made something that would follow the line of the rear wheel well, and just fill the area to the right or left of the cargo floor.. So it would be right between the sub and the 6x9 on the right side of the pic Merz showed of his system.. It would be fairly easy to build if you knew what you were doing, fiberglass back MDF front/top/bottom/sides... As Merz said, a 4g wire should suffice for most anything you want to do.. I would look at Kicker wiring kits, online... they make some great and complete kits for doing this... If you get the proper one, it will have everything including RCA cables... Good stuff, well worth the money.. You say you have "an old 4ch amp" .... continue with that thought.. Depending on it's size, you could easily run the front speakers AND the sub from it.. Does your HU have front/rear/sub RCA outputs? that will go a long way in helping this along.. Last think, how is buffalo today... the rain ended here and we are now frozen solid.. 14" of snow gone in a few hours, now approching 23*... I used to live in Buffalo, so I know how the weather can be...

[audiovibe]

Hello, Sorry I’m late to the party and thanks for the props. You are correct; my enclosure is made from MDF rings. Originally I made my enclosure from the tub above the spare. It was sufficient for my application until I wanted to jam, my only downside to that method was that the Jack and components would vibrate at various frequencies, and the enclosure was a little bigger then I wanted. That is why I went with the rings, I was able to rid the rattles from the tub, and make a denser enclosure that was smaller in size. My woofer really doesn’t like any real power or really any thing over 150 watts. In the tub when I would get some real low notes the sub would just let lose and unload and flop around, made it unbearable to enjoy. With the MDF rings I made the enclosure smaller and to the right specs for the woofer. This method made a world of difference in impact and output. I am still not 100% satisfied with the results mostly because I’m not a big fan of shallow mount woofers; I really think they give up a lot of performance to fit where the consumer wants it to go.My enclosure is pretty basic, using 6-.75" MDF rings and 1-.5 MDF ring fastened together with staples and wood glue using the spare tire hold down to secure the enclosure to the car.My 0awg is run through the top of the firewall. I will try to get a pic for you soon; I use a pro grommet which is much bigger then normal firewall grommets. The pro grommet required a .75 hole and uses a plastic nut to secure the grommet to the firewall and requires space to get to with a wrench. I chose high on the firewall because that is where I had the most room to tighten the grommet from inside the dash. Originally I had my power and ground ran under the car to the battery, but decided to change it when I lowered the car. The reason I had ran the ground to the battery was because I was measuring the least resistance at that location if you were curious. My ground is now in the hatch to some bare metal using a Stinger pro grounding block and securing it to the floor with I believe 1/4 20 nuts and bolts. The resistance is a little higher but a sacrifice I was willing to make.I had an 18' Zap co proprietary symbilink cable running from the P.C. to the sound processor. There was a lot of cable that needed coiled up and I think a 12' would have worked in my application. My install has changed recently and my p.c. is no longer in the glove box, I moved it to the rear drivers side cubby allowing a shorter cable run for the processor, I have also started to make a plate to mount the hazard and defrost switches in the center console. Your length would vary because point of origin would be different as well as the end point would be different. My recommendation would be to run so kite string in the same route that your wires would run to get a length. You can run the signal wire along the passenger side door sill; however I would recommend running it along the floor and going through the holes in the structure braces on the floor, same with the power wire on the Drivers side. This will allow you to run the wires along the floor where it meets the door sill wall with a lower possibility of the cable showing under the carpet.Where to ground the amp? This is a highly debated topic and the correct answer is there isn't a best spot. Being a unibody car any place on the trunk floor should be sufficient, but isn't always the case. The main downside to trunk floors is that they are very thin. I prefer to go directly to the battery a lot of times it offers less resistance in the ground because it takes it back to the source, but you run is longer and doubles cable you need to buy. Being a unibody car, any ground you can make that is solid will work fine; you just want to stay away from layered metal and areas that are welded on. Hope this helps any more questions just ask.Aron