'09 GT wheel stud... BEWARE OF AMERICA'S TIRE!!

[Bikerscum]

Anyone know the specs and/or a source for an '09 GT wheel stud? (no local dealers here) The geniuses at America's Tire just snapped one of mine off. I was watching the guy.... he just kept turning & turning... determined to hear that torque wrench click. It finally dawned on him to call a manager, who tried a different wrench, & snapped it off with an 1/8th of a turn. I know at least two more are ready to snap. They gave me the name of a garage to take it to at their expense, but I'd like to have the parts in hand when I go. I have a trip planned end of the week & can't get hung up on this.And PLEASE tell me these are pressed in & not welded. Thanks

[hskater26]

dang that sucks

[ou.grizzly]

I thought many wheel studs were pressed in. I would tell the tire shop the dealer is fixing it at their expense as you want all work to be done by the since since the vehicle is still under warranty, just in case something happens down the road.

[keithvibe]

take it to the dealer and tell them to send the bill to america's tire

[northvibe]

man did that to my 2004 vibe, was cake to replace. I bought all new studs took the rotor off put them in and put the rotor back on. The problem is most mechanics think 100lbs is normal for rims...while the vibes is 75lbs :/

[Bikerscum]

Anyone happen to know if the '09 uses the same ones as '06s? Thanks.

[Sublimewind]

Sounds like they might have lubedthe treads of the stud before they put the nut on... Bad Mojo... that drastically changes the torque figures... Never lube the threads UNLESS, you have the proper information to be able to properly change the actual torque figure to match...

[Bikerscum]

Finally got around to replacing all of the right rear studs on my '09 GT today. Pretty straightforward, but a couple of pointers for those attempting it.... The studs are the same as the ones Kragen Auto lists for the '06 (their last year listed). PN is 610-266.1 You can see the actual specs for them at Kragen.com. First, release the emergency brake. I always wondered how the e-brake worked with disks.... it doesn't. Behind the rotor is a tiny set of drum brakes, & the inside of the rotor is the drum. You'll pull the whole assembly out if you don't release the brake first. Remove the caliper assembly & move it up out of the way. Your rotor/drum may come off with some gentle tapping, mine was frozen on. There are two small threaded holes in the rotor, these are "jack screw holes". Thread a 5/16-18 bolt into each one (probably metric, but these work) And slowly tighten them, a quarter turn each at a time. The bolts push against the flange & force the rotor off. You can, with a little patience, remove/replace the studs without removing the e-brake assembly. Rotate the flange so the offending stud is in about the 2 o'clock position, & move the e-brake assembly up & to the right as far as it will go. There's enough room behind there to hammer out the old stud & put in the new one. Put the new stud in from behind the flange, rotate it 'til you feel the serrations line up with the ones in the flange. Put 3 or 4 flat washers over the stud, followed by the lug nut. Using a cheater bar on a ratchet, or an impact wrench, draw the stud in 'til it's shoulder seats on the back of the flange. Put it all back together, & verbally abuse America's Tire one last time.